HELP!!! Tune for LT's?
#21
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Just make sure the extensions are tucked away from heat. I used a plastic single screw wire strap to secure the wires out of the way. Delcos are great sensors. Make sure that all of your plug wires are securely away from your headers. I had a set of wires run fine for awhile but after 3-4 thousand miles one finally did move enough to touch and burn. An extra half hour making sure each wire will be fine is well worth it.
#22
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UPDATE:
I got new o2s about a week ago, got rid of the problem for about 2 days and it ran great
So then i finally got my exhaust welded up and the problem has seemed to go away and it runs sooo much smoother
I got new o2s about a week ago, got rid of the problem for about 2 days and it ran great
So then i finally got my exhaust welded up and the problem has seemed to go away and it runs sooo much smoother
#23
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Bringing this thread back from the dead...
So the car has started to act up again...
It has new o2s. AC delcos
Brand new header gaskets.
And there is zero exhaust leaks...
It runs fine right when its started up, then after it warms up, it starts to miss under about 2k especially off idle. And then the same when im cruising at about 1800 rpm. Ill give it some gas to accelerate and it kinda bucks and misses.. and then once im past 2k rpm it runs better, but still feels under power until about 2500 rpm.. I still think it pulls pretty hard. But iv driven it like this for awhile so i dont remember when it didnt do this. I feel like it pulled way harder...
I need some new ideas to look at...
Could it be i eliminated the EVAP, EGR, or AIR????
I got rid of all three of those when i did the headers.
And if its running shitty and i unplug the battery and rest the computer and start it back up it runs fine... for awhile.
HELP!
So the car has started to act up again...
It has new o2s. AC delcos
Brand new header gaskets.
And there is zero exhaust leaks...
It runs fine right when its started up, then after it warms up, it starts to miss under about 2k especially off idle. And then the same when im cruising at about 1800 rpm. Ill give it some gas to accelerate and it kinda bucks and misses.. and then once im past 2k rpm it runs better, but still feels under power until about 2500 rpm.. I still think it pulls pretty hard. But iv driven it like this for awhile so i dont remember when it didnt do this. I feel like it pulled way harder...
I need some new ideas to look at...
Could it be i eliminated the EVAP, EGR, or AIR????
I got rid of all three of those when i did the headers.
And if its running shitty and i unplug the battery and rest the computer and start it back up it runs fine... for awhile.
HELP!
#25
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
#27
Have you checked your plug wires yet? I have pacesetter lt's and my number 5 or 6 (whichever is on the passenger side, I cant remember) keeps burning through and I even have it wrapped.
#28
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Check your wires, check your O2 wires to ensure they are not burnt either. Where are the front O2's located? Are they in the collector? Are the O2's pointing towards the inside of the car or the outside?
#30
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Alright guys thanks for the suggestions, here's what iv got.
The back passenger side plug wire is a little burnt that's about it for the plug wire.
The o2 wires seem to be fine, can't see any burnt or melted wires....
Lastly it's absolutely drinking fuel! I put about 6 gallons in it the other day and after 50miles I had to fill it up again today. Now that is the worst mileage I can imagine.... Help!!
The back passenger side plug wire is a little burnt that's about it for the plug wire.
The o2 wires seem to be fine, can't see any burnt or melted wires....
Lastly it's absolutely drinking fuel! I put about 6 gallons in it the other day and after 50miles I had to fill it up again today. Now that is the worst mileage I can imagine.... Help!!
#32
Change the water temp sensor in the water pump. Here they're only around 20 bucks. When mine was bad, I was getting like 9-10 mpg's. Try to cover the opti with something the best you can so it doesnt get wet when you take the sensor out, or jack up the back of the car as high as it will go (block the front wheels) so the water doesnt run straight down.
#33
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Change the water temp sensor in the water pump. Here they're only around 20 bucks. When mine was bad, I was getting like 9-10 mpg's. Try to cover the opti with something the best you can so it doesnt get wet when you take the sensor out, or jack up the back of the car as high as it will go (block the front wheels) so the water doesnt run straight down.
A water temp sensor doesn't sound like something it should be.
How did you figure out it was that?
#35
It ran like complete ****. Backfiring, missing, ran so rich I had to drive with my windows down, black soot coming from exhaust. You have two temp sensors. one in the block which gives you the gauge reading, and one in the water pump which sends the data to the pcm. If the water pump one is bad, the pcm thinks the car is -40 degrees thus dumping a **** ton of fuel to compensate for what it thinks is a cold start condition
#36
I figured out it was that by reading these forums. Everyone was saying oh its your o2's, it's your opti, its this or its that. I started with the cheapest and easiest part first lol and winner winner chicken dinner
#37
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A simple data log will almost always tell you What you need. Spending any money on parts without data to prove that is the faulty parts is stupid. 20 dollars or not....
A burnt plug wire will make the car run like **** and dump a crap ton of fuel.
A burnt plug wire will make the car run like **** and dump a crap ton of fuel.
#39
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#40
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Put a damn scan gauge on it to see if your coolant sensor is out. Throwing parts at it is as dumb as saying "yeah well I replaced this and it fixed mine so you should do it too!"
To Kyle
You are an idiot if you think a bad plug wire won't cause the car to dump a ton of fuel.
To Kyle
You are an idiot if you think a bad plug wire won't cause the car to dump a ton of fuel.