First timer here. need some tips
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Teching In
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From: North Central Massachusetts
First timer here. need some tips New to the forums.Picked up a 1996 T/A WS6 for $2200. got it running stronhg after new opti and engine rebuild. I've got about 32k on the rebuild and I have a little extra cash set aside for some upgrades. As of now the only mods are Hooker LT's, GMMG exhaust, and CAI. stock 4l60e with 3.73s. As of now I'm just looking for a good engine setup capable of producing low 400s rwhp/rwtq. any suggestions? advice will be well appreciated.
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AI or LE should get you there no problem. Call one of them up for a head/cam package (be sure to add a tune with that). When you rebuilt the engine did you do anything like bore or stroke it?
P.S. forgot to ask, what's your budget? That will have a LOT to do with how much power you can make.
P.S. forgot to ask, what's your budget? That will have a LOT to do with how much power you can make.
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Teching In
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From: North Central Massachusetts
stock bore & stroke. upped pistons to 11:1. no time to dyno, but engine couldn't be happier. really don't want to break low 400s and murder the diff. I don't want to break $3000 with the tune and all. wanna save the rest for brakes/ suspension
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With the mods you have right now, while it may not require it, it'd benefit from a mail order tune. But since you want to start digging into the motor I'd hold off. I'd try looking on here for a set of used heads. You can get a head/cam package new from Lloyd for a decent price, but it'd be hard to stay inside that budget with new parts. A lot of people forget about all the other things you need with h/c. Since you've got an A4 the diff should last longer than with an M6 (though that's not always the case). Some other people who've done h/c swaps should chime in. I got lucky and got most of my stuff on the cheap from a buddy who helped me build up a roller, so I don't have much experience on how much everything costs.
Typically horsepower doesn't kill the rear end - traction does. As long as you don't run a super sticky tire you can add all the horsepower you want within reason.
The "diff" will hold up just fine (pretty sure you mean the ring/pinion).
The "diff" will hold up just fine (pretty sure you mean the ring/pinion).
There have been those who've broken diffs on the street with street tires. Shock to the driveline is a 10-bolt's worst enemy. Pop the clutch enough times whether it's down or up shifting, or even putting in an aggressive clutch can be enough for spider gears or ring/pinoin gear teeth to cut loose.
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Your 10 bolt should do fine then. Do you have an auto or manual. Auto's a generally much softer on rear end, meaning you can run a lot more power without worries.
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Teching In
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From: Poconos, PA
H/C/I from Lloyd will put you where you want to be power wise with a tune, but you will be just about at your budget limit. You also have to factor in that since you will be sucking in more air, you're going to want to add fuel to that. Bigger injectors, better fuel pressure regulator, and 255lph fuel pump will definitely help put the build together. Bigger throttle body if you do port the intake as well will help.
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H/C/I from Lloyd will put you where you want to be power wise with a tune, but you will be just about at your budget limit. You also have to factor in that since you will be sucking in more air, you're going to want to add fuel to that. Bigger injectors, better fuel pressure regulator, and 255lph fuel pump will definitely help put the build together. Bigger throttle body if you do port the intake as well will help.
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anyone else notice he said stock '60e? your gonna want a torque converter... 2800-4000rpm will be recommended by most, especially if you want it to drive decent and launch like it should
PS I used to dd my 3600rpm stall. Some people make bigger stalls out to be bad for the street but I love mine.
PS I used to dd my 3600rpm stall. Some people make bigger stalls out to be bad for the street but I love mine.
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From: Crappy Stupid Liberal Washington state
anyone else notice he said stock '60e? your gonna want a torque converter... 2800-4000rpm will be recommended by most, especially if you want it to drive decent and launch like it should
PS I used to dd my 3600rpm stall. Some people make bigger stalls out to be bad for the street but I love mine.
PS I used to dd my 3600rpm stall. Some people make bigger stalls out to be bad for the street but I love mine.
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OP. I'd start looking on the classifieds for used parts. I still think you could pull it off with your budget. Even if you don't find a set of heads you should be able to find a used TC, some gears, and look at ebay for some injectors. Might be able to find a used fuel pump and hotwire kit too.
