My wait is almost over.
08-17-2013, 07:24 AM
#41
The pushrods and springs will take 7,000 RPM no problem. It will see another dyno at some point to crack the 700 mark.
Thanks Toronto.
So, I took the car out last night. I've got some things to fix!
First thing is actually from a while back but I never had the chance to fix. When I upgraded my brakes to Baers massive 6S calipers I noticed my front drivers side caliper would contact the rotor. I think we found that the custom aluminum brackets I had made were flexing, so I need to have new ones made of steel.
Next, I noticed that under boost my autometer electronic boost gauge was not reading boost. It reads vacuum fine, but no boost. This one I am not sure about and may start a separate thread about later today. Only thing I can think of is a possible bad map sensor in the gauge. I don't think there's a boost leak as the line looks solid.
Then, while I was inspecting under the hood I see this;
Cracked alternator bracket. Really don't know how this happened. It seemed to not go anywhere and the tension pulled it more towards the crack instead of away from it, so I rolled the dice and decided to continue driving it for the evening. I'm trying to find another one that someone doesn't want an arm and a leg for. Or, if I can't find one I may try having a buddy tig weld it back together.
Finally the icing on the cake was when I really romped on it from a third gear pull and I heard a very loud POP, followed by the sound of the exhaust amplified exponentially (exhaust leak). After further inspection, it seems the clamp came loose enough and the back pressure disconnected the y-pipe. It sounded like a drag car all night (lol).
I gave Fastbird a ride and he got a short video clip of a short 1st to second rip. I'll try to post it later.
So, I've got some work to do, but over all, pretty happy with it.
Thanks Toronto.
So, I took the car out last night. I've got some things to fix!
First thing is actually from a while back but I never had the chance to fix. When I upgraded my brakes to Baers massive 6S calipers I noticed my front drivers side caliper would contact the rotor. I think we found that the custom aluminum brackets I had made were flexing, so I need to have new ones made of steel.
Next, I noticed that under boost my autometer electronic boost gauge was not reading boost. It reads vacuum fine, but no boost. This one I am not sure about and may start a separate thread about later today. Only thing I can think of is a possible bad map sensor in the gauge. I don't think there's a boost leak as the line looks solid.
Then, while I was inspecting under the hood I see this;
Cracked alternator bracket. Really don't know how this happened. It seemed to not go anywhere and the tension pulled it more towards the crack instead of away from it, so I rolled the dice and decided to continue driving it for the evening. I'm trying to find another one that someone doesn't want an arm and a leg for. Or, if I can't find one I may try having a buddy tig weld it back together.
Finally the icing on the cake was when I really romped on it from a third gear pull and I heard a very loud POP, followed by the sound of the exhaust amplified exponentially (exhaust leak). After further inspection, it seems the clamp came loose enough and the back pressure disconnected the y-pipe. It sounded like a drag car all night (lol).
I gave Fastbird a ride and he got a short video clip of a short 1st to second rip. I'll try to post it later.
So, I've got some work to do, but over all, pretty happy with it.
08-17-2013, 06:38 PM
#48
So, tomorrow's plan of attack;
I'm gonna "try" a 3 bar map sensor for a GMC Syclone for the fuel gauge. The gauge goes up to 30#'s of boost, so I am assuming it requires a 3 bar map sensor. I can get a new auto meter one that is appropriate for the gauge, but its $70+ tax and shipping (and I'm not 100% sure its the map sensor).
I can pick up a Syclone 3 bar map sensor from Autozone for $54. If it doesn't work, I'll return it (much quicker and cheaper than dealing with shipping).
Then once I get home, I'm gonna try to fix the exhaust leak (I'm hoping I can find a good exhaust clamp lying around in my garage), then I'll swap out the map sensor and take it for a quick spin to check out the exhaust and the gauge.
Then, I'm gonna pull the custom caliper brackets out and head into town to drop them off to a buddy that will fabricate me steel ones, and then stop by another friends house to pick up an alternator bracket his friend had lying around.
With luck, I'll have the new alternator bracket installed later in the day.
My goal is to have everything tip top by next weekend. If possible, if I happen to have it dialed in by Wednesday, I may make a track run, but I doubt the brake brackets will be done in time.
I'm gonna "try" a 3 bar map sensor for a GMC Syclone for the fuel gauge. The gauge goes up to 30#'s of boost, so I am assuming it requires a 3 bar map sensor. I can get a new auto meter one that is appropriate for the gauge, but its $70+ tax and shipping (and I'm not 100% sure its the map sensor).
I can pick up a Syclone 3 bar map sensor from Autozone for $54. If it doesn't work, I'll return it (much quicker and cheaper than dealing with shipping).
Then once I get home, I'm gonna try to fix the exhaust leak (I'm hoping I can find a good exhaust clamp lying around in my garage), then I'll swap out the map sensor and take it for a quick spin to check out the exhaust and the gauge.
Then, I'm gonna pull the custom caliper brackets out and head into town to drop them off to a buddy that will fabricate me steel ones, and then stop by another friends house to pick up an alternator bracket his friend had lying around.
With luck, I'll have the new alternator bracket installed later in the day.
My goal is to have everything tip top by next weekend. If possible, if I happen to have it dialed in by Wednesday, I may make a track run, but I doubt the brake brackets will be done in time.
08-18-2013, 12:33 PM
#49
So, I put the exhaust back together. Looked like I had a clamp that just came loose and the back pressure popped it off.
I picked up a 3 bar map sensor out of a 91 GMC Syclone, hoping it would work for the 3 bar map sensor in my Autometer electronic boost gauge.
It was a direct fit (pins lined up identically) for the autometer map sensor. I installed it and took it out and got into boost. The exhaust seemed to hold together (and sounds WAY better than before), but the gauge still was working the same. Vacuum but no boost
I'll call Autometer tomorrow and see what they think. Even though the map sensor was a direct fit in for the other one, doesn't mean it would work in place of the other one. If I have a bad gauge, I may end up going with a different boost gauge anyways. I love my boost guage, but it was expensive (over $200). It goes up to 30#'s of boost, and I have never seen more than 15#'s. We will see what they say, but if things start looking expensive, I may just get the 15# electronic boost gauge in its place.
I pulled the brake brackets off and delivered them to my buddy who said he should have steel ones fabbed up for me by Wednesday.
Then I just picked up a new alternator bracket from another friend, and with some luck, I'll have it in the car later today.
I really want this thing back together and running 100% by the end of the week. I have waited too long to have it drawn out much further.
I picked up a 3 bar map sensor out of a 91 GMC Syclone, hoping it would work for the 3 bar map sensor in my Autometer electronic boost gauge.
It was a direct fit (pins lined up identically) for the autometer map sensor. I installed it and took it out and got into boost. The exhaust seemed to hold together (and sounds WAY better than before), but the gauge still was working the same. Vacuum but no boost
I'll call Autometer tomorrow and see what they think. Even though the map sensor was a direct fit in for the other one, doesn't mean it would work in place of the other one. If I have a bad gauge, I may end up going with a different boost gauge anyways. I love my boost guage, but it was expensive (over $200). It goes up to 30#'s of boost, and I have never seen more than 15#'s. We will see what they say, but if things start looking expensive, I may just get the 15# electronic boost gauge in its place.
I pulled the brake brackets off and delivered them to my buddy who said he should have steel ones fabbed up for me by Wednesday.
Then I just picked up a new alternator bracket from another friend, and with some luck, I'll have it in the car later today.
I really want this thing back together and running 100% by the end of the week. I have waited too long to have it drawn out much further.
08-18-2013, 07:57 PM
#52
Thanks!
I got the new alternator bracket in (it was harder to install than remove).
I also remembered while I was under the car that I need to replace a rubber cap on the bottom of the radiator. I have a silicone one to go it its place but rubber was all I had at the time. I installed it just before dropping the car off to get it tuned, and its already cracked.
I'll do that tomorrow.
I got the new alternator bracket in (it was harder to install than remove).
I also remembered while I was under the car that I need to replace a rubber cap on the bottom of the radiator. I have a silicone one to go it its place but rubber was all I had at the time. I installed it just before dropping the car off to get it tuned, and its already cracked.
I'll do that tomorrow.
08-18-2013, 09:13 PM
#54
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Oh take your time but we are waiting for another video clip - hopefully with a camera. Last clip sounded great and your passenger got a little surprised. Some engine pix would be nice too.
cardo
cardo
08-18-2013, 10:04 PM
#55
Twas the legendary Fastbird as my screaming co-pilot.
I do promise more video of much higher quality and length.
The car sat in a very dirty environment for the better half of the summer. I spend a good half day cleaning the outside (and I still have a bit to go before I am satisfied). I haven't touched under the hood yet at all, and due to me wrenching on it today, its pretty filthified.
Tomorrow I'm gonna fix that rubber cap in the radiator, and after I do, I'll try to tidy some things up under the hood and get some pics for you. Its not the nicest engine bay you've ever seen, or even one that would draw a croud at a car show, but I do think it looks good now with the aluminum piping, and sheet metal inlet elbow and sheet metal valve covers.
I've always concentrated on making it run good before I make it look good, but there's not a lot more I can do at the moment, so I'll try to get her cleaned up.
The car sat in a very dirty environment for the better half of the summer. I spend a good half day cleaning the outside (and I still have a bit to go before I am satisfied). I haven't touched under the hood yet at all, and due to me wrenching on it today, its pretty filthified.
Tomorrow I'm gonna fix that rubber cap in the radiator, and after I do, I'll try to tidy some things up under the hood and get some pics for you. Its not the nicest engine bay you've ever seen, or even one that would draw a croud at a car show, but I do think it looks good now with the aluminum piping, and sheet metal inlet elbow and sheet metal valve covers.
I've always concentrated on making it run good before I make it look good, but there's not a lot more I can do at the moment, so I'll try to get her cleaned up.
08-19-2013, 12:42 AM
#57
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...
I picked up a 3 bar map sensor out of a 91 GMC Syclone, hoping it would work for the 3 bar map sensor in my Autometer electronic boost gauge.
It was a direct fit (pins lined up identically) for the autometer map sensor. I installed it and took it out and got into boost. The exhaust seemed to hold together (and sounds WAY better than before), but the gauge still was working the same. Vacuum but no boost
I'll call Autometer tomorrow and see what they think. Even though the map sensor was a direct fit in for the other one, doesn't mean it would work in place of the other one. If I have a bad gauge, I may end up going with a different boost gauge anyways. I love my boost guage, but it was expensive (over $200). It goes up to 30#'s of boost, and I have never seen more than 15#'s. We will see what they say, but if things start looking expensive, I may just get the 15# electronic boost gauge in its place.
......
I picked up a 3 bar map sensor out of a 91 GMC Syclone, hoping it would work for the 3 bar map sensor in my Autometer electronic boost gauge.
It was a direct fit (pins lined up identically) for the autometer map sensor. I installed it and took it out and got into boost. The exhaust seemed to hold together (and sounds WAY better than before), but the gauge still was working the same. Vacuum but no boost
I'll call Autometer tomorrow and see what they think. Even though the map sensor was a direct fit in for the other one, doesn't mean it would work in place of the other one. If I have a bad gauge, I may end up going with a different boost gauge anyways. I love my boost guage, but it was expensive (over $200). It goes up to 30#'s of boost, and I have never seen more than 15#'s. We will see what they say, but if things start looking expensive, I may just get the 15# electronic boost gauge in its place.
......
Can u scan for MAP reading? I don't know if a scanner will read boost but i imagine it would as it reads in "absolute" pressure.
Do u use the electronic boost gauge for any other control function? Can u subsitute a mechancal boost/combo vac & boost gauge instead. For just pressure readings a mechanical gauge would be my first choice but i am able to calibrate them at work so thats why im partial.
Good luck,
cardo
08-19-2013, 05:29 AM
#58
)Can u scan for MAP reading? I don't know if a scanner will read boost but i imagine it would as it reads in "absolute" pressure.
Do u use the electronic boost gauge for any other control function? Can u subsitute a mechancal boost/combo vac & boost gauge instead. For just pressure readings a mechanical gauge would be my first choice but i am able to calibrate them at work so thats why im partial.
Good luck,
cardo
Do u use the electronic boost gauge for any other control function? Can u subsitute a mechancal boost/combo vac & boost gauge instead. For just pressure readings a mechanical gauge would be my first choice but i am able to calibrate them at work so thats why im partial.
Good luck,
cardo
The electrical boost gauge is much more accurate than the mechanical one (if you use it for calibration, you should look into one).
On top of all that, the electrical boost gauge has a max boost warning light and a boost recall button which I use often (both of which you won't find on a mechanical boost gauge).
08-19-2013, 09:04 AM
#59
I spoke with Autometer. It seems my thinking was correct, that the Syclone 3 bar map sensor would be the same. They said I would have to send the whole unit in for repair at this point. They wouldn't talk price with me at all, but they made me believe it would not be cheap.
So, I am in search for a new boost gauge. I really liked being able to recall the boost, and setting a max. If nothing else, I can just get the same gauge again in the 0-15#'s that I want. But I may search elsewhere for other options given the expense.
So, I am in search for a new boost gauge. I really liked being able to recall the boost, and setting a max. If nothing else, I can just get the same gauge again in the 0-15#'s that I want. But I may search elsewhere for other options given the expense.
08-19-2013, 09:36 AM
#60
So, I have it narrowed down to 2 different gauges.
#1, Autometer Sport Comp Electrical full sweep 0-15#'s of boost guage.
This is essentially the same guage I have only going up to 15#'s of boost instead of my 30#'s of boost gauge. I like this gauge a lot and it will match my autometer sport comp fuel pressure gauge. The only thing that is making me think twice about getting this gauge is that its gonna cost me $200.
#2, Prosport Performance electric boost gauge. This has all the options the autometer guage has. It is electric, it has a max boost recall and max boost warning. It has a cool feature that will change the whole gauge colors if you want for a warning. The only downside is that it does look totally different than my other guage, or dash. I don't mind the appearance, but it will clash. But the awesome thing is that the gauge is only $77 shipped.
So, I have some contemplating to do.
Opinions?
#1, Autometer Sport Comp Electrical full sweep 0-15#'s of boost guage.
This is essentially the same guage I have only going up to 15#'s of boost instead of my 30#'s of boost gauge. I like this gauge a lot and it will match my autometer sport comp fuel pressure gauge. The only thing that is making me think twice about getting this gauge is that its gonna cost me $200.
#2, Prosport Performance electric boost gauge. This has all the options the autometer guage has. It is electric, it has a max boost recall and max boost warning. It has a cool feature that will change the whole gauge colors if you want for a warning. The only downside is that it does look totally different than my other guage, or dash. I don't mind the appearance, but it will clash. But the awesome thing is that the gauge is only $77 shipped.
So, I have some contemplating to do.
Opinions?