Alternator Bearing Replacement
Alternator Bearing Replacement My alternator needs new bearings and I've decided to rebuild it instead of buying a new one seeing as a kit is $20. Worse case scenario, it doesn't work and I buy a new one.
However, I've found plenty of write ups/YouTube videos of replacing the electronics but not the bearings.
Does anyone have some reference material to replacing them? It should be straight forward but it always helps to see a walk through before actually doing it.
However, I've found plenty of write ups/YouTube videos of replacing the electronics but not the bearings.
Does anyone have some reference material to replacing them? It should be straight forward but it always helps to see a walk through before actually doing it.
You see, it's that last part. For removal I plan to use a hammer, a strong flat head as a chisel if need be. To replace them I plan to use a hammer/rubber mallet and a socket with the appropriate diameter and cautiosly drive the bearings into place.
From what I understand the front bearing will require some red threadlocker because the peice holding the bearing in must be broken in order to remove the bearing. I think it's all very similar to put in the bearings on the LT1 timing cover.
From what I understand the front bearing will require some red threadlocker because the peice holding the bearing in must be broken in order to remove the bearing. I think it's all very similar to put in the bearings on the LT1 timing cover.
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Long Beach, MS
You see, it's that last part. For removal I plan to use a hammer, a strong flat head as a chisel if need be. To replace them I plan to use a hammer/rubber mallet and a socket with the appropriate diameter and cautiosly drive the bearings into place.
From what I understand the front bearing will require some red threadlocker because the peice holding the bearing in must be broken in order to remove the bearing. I think it's all very similar to put in the bearings on the LT1 timing cover.
From what I understand the front bearing will require some red threadlocker because the peice holding the bearing in must be broken in order to remove the bearing. I think it's all very similar to put in the bearings on the LT1 timing cover.
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I did find a shop that will press them in for $20 but they're not available on the weekends. I'm going to give it the old college try and see where that gets me. I figure patience and logic should help me out here.
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The rear is "doable" using a large C clamp with a socket large enough on the "butt" end the old bearing can get pushed into....the front is another story.
I would find a way to have the $20 shop do it
If you beat on it you will very likely break the casting
good luck
I would find a way to have the $20 shop do it
If you beat on it you will very likely break the casting
good luck
Good news, I found a shop that will remove the old and insert the new. Parts & Labor $40.
Last edited by ckyconan2003; Oct 8, 2013 at 09:08 AM.
You might try using a LARGE socket to "surround" the boss where the bearing goes, as you drive it into place. However, if you can find an extra pair of hands to help, a bench vise would be a LOT better than a hammer and big screwdriver.
Luckily i found someone in town that will clean the brushes, the rotator, and replace the bearings all for $40 while I wait. All I need to do is bring him the alternator untouched. I'll post back here to let everyone know how things go. I plan to watch him while he does it. Having a bearing press is never a bad idea.
Alternator rebuild went really well. Took it to an old school one man shop off a side street. Great guy, been rebuilding alternators since 1980. Richard's Starter is his shop name in Little Rock fyi.
Anyways, i put the alternator on and to no avail. My annoyingly loud problem was there there. The culprit? The PCV Elbow on the driver's side of the intake was cut and collapsing. So $6 later she hums along!
Anyways, i put the alternator on and to no avail. My annoyingly loud problem was there there. The culprit? The PCV Elbow on the driver's side of the intake was cut and collapsing. So $6 later she hums along!
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 419
Likes: 4
From: Long Beach, MS
Alternator rebuild went really well. Took it to an old school one man shop off a side street. Great guy, been rebuilding alternators since 1980. Richard's Starter is his shop name in Little Rock fyi.
Anyways, i put the alternator on and to no avail. My annoyingly loud problem was there there. The culprit? The PCV Elbow on the driver's side of the intake was cut and collapsing. So $6 later she hums along!
Anyways, i put the alternator on and to no avail. My annoyingly loud problem was there there. The culprit? The PCV Elbow on the driver's side of the intake was cut and collapsing. So $6 later she hums along!
My annoyingly loud problem stops when I remove the accessory drive belt.
