K&N and AirRaid Filters, causing MAF problems?
K&N and AirRaid Filters, causing MAF problems? So, in a recent discussion with my dad he mentioned that when he used the K&N filter on his 97 SS he had performance issues caused by the oil they put on their filters. Apparently the MAF didn't like it and he said the car actually performed worse.
I ask because I had never heard of this before.
Thoughts?
I ask because I had never heard of this before.
Thoughts?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Sometimes there is to much from making the filter and/or reoiling and contaminates the maf. Alot of people recommend a dry filter cause of that issue. I'm using an oiled filter on my car, but clean the MAF once in a while and dont over load on oil when i clean the filter.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
I don't have any 
still using the same oiled filter I bought when I did my ls1 lid conversion, hopfully someone can chime in as I was debating replacing mine with a dry so i can be lazy and not have to oil mine anymore lol
still using the same oiled filter I bought when I did my ls1 lid conversion, hopfully someone can chime in as I was debating replacing mine with a dry so i can be lazy and not have to oil mine anymore lol Trending Topics
I tested filters on my dyno. No power there. Mine made the same power and ran the same times with a stock WS6 air box and NAPA paper filter. I was also surprised to find that on a mild head & cam Camaro the K&N air duct the Camaro deal made the same power as my WS6 air box. Pretty much all the "cold air kits" sold are wasted money. The factory filters are not a restriction on a head & cam car or truck. Not even my 539 rwhp 383" cared if the filter was there.
And, yes oiled air filters contaminate MAF sensors. Don't waste your money.
And, yes oiled air filters contaminate MAF sensors. Don't waste your money.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
For those of us still using K&N air filters, I'll share some "lessons learned" back in the mid-'90's while running a Corvette-only shop. My mechanics were having a difficult time recharging (oiling) the K&N filters to the point I had customers coming back into the shop with contamination problems on their MAF wires.
Through trial and error observation I finally realized that the real problem was the application of spray oil supplied by K&N. My mechanics were trying to spray the entire filter "red" at one time, and not giving the oil time to disperse through the cotton gauze leading to over oiling.
Having the mechanics recharge the air filter per K&N's instructions, and then standing the filter up right for about 30 minutes accomplished the task of oiling the filter, leaving no "white" spots, and allowed any excess oil to drain out of the filter before installing it back into the customer's car. End of problem.
Still had customers come back with fouled MAF's, but the source of that problem was usually a bad/non-functioning PCV systems that allowed excessive back pressure to build up in the crankcase. When the engine stopped, the oil-laced back pressure would purge through the clean air intake in the throttle body which led directly down to the MAF and coated the wires leading to eventual problems.
If you have a K&N air filter, pay particular attention to how your recharge the unit to prevent over oiling. If you don't, use the best paper filter you can find, and you should be good to go. (I still use the K&N on my '89 Z51 and '04 Z06 Vettes, but YMMV!)
Through trial and error observation I finally realized that the real problem was the application of spray oil supplied by K&N. My mechanics were trying to spray the entire filter "red" at one time, and not giving the oil time to disperse through the cotton gauze leading to over oiling.
Having the mechanics recharge the air filter per K&N's instructions, and then standing the filter up right for about 30 minutes accomplished the task of oiling the filter, leaving no "white" spots, and allowed any excess oil to drain out of the filter before installing it back into the customer's car. End of problem.
Still had customers come back with fouled MAF's, but the source of that problem was usually a bad/non-functioning PCV systems that allowed excessive back pressure to build up in the crankcase. When the engine stopped, the oil-laced back pressure would purge through the clean air intake in the throttle body which led directly down to the MAF and coated the wires leading to eventual problems.
If you have a K&N air filter, pay particular attention to how your recharge the unit to prevent over oiling. If you don't, use the best paper filter you can find, and you should be good to go. (I still use the K&N on my '89 Z51 and '04 Z06 Vettes, but YMMV!)
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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as beachcomber notes..."over oiling" the aftermarket filters will lead to contamination of the MAF.
Use the oil spray lightly and let soak in AND air dry for a few hrs or even overnight by standing filter on end. you will notice any extra oil has flowed to base of filter and you wipe off.
also the 'cleaning" step you need to let the filter COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE APPLYING THE OIL SPRAY
Use the oil spray lightly and let soak in AND air dry for a few hrs or even overnight by standing filter on end. you will notice any extra oil has flowed to base of filter and you wipe off.
also the 'cleaning" step you need to let the filter COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE APPLYING THE OIL SPRAY
The 2 posts by Ed and beachcomber sum it up completely.
The stock paper filter in my car back in "bolt-on" stock motor trim made the same hp as an open intake with a bellmouth on it. I've never spent money on a "cold-air" kit.
My pickup which sees 35k miles per year has a K&N element. I oil it sensibly and sparingly and have never had a MAF contamination issue that would be noticeable by any drift in the LT fuel trims.
So, I'd say if your car gets low/med mileage use, stick with a stock element.
If it's a high-miler, then the K&N element makes sense.
The stock paper filter in my car back in "bolt-on" stock motor trim made the same hp as an open intake with a bellmouth on it. I've never spent money on a "cold-air" kit.
My pickup which sees 35k miles per year has a K&N element. I oil it sensibly and sparingly and have never had a MAF contamination issue that would be noticeable by any drift in the LT fuel trims.
So, I'd say if your car gets low/med mileage use, stick with a stock element.
If it's a high-miler, then the K&N element makes sense.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Canada
If there is one available for our air box, the AEM Dry Filter is tops in my books.... but dam they are expensive. I ran this filter in a modded Grand AM, before you laugh, this was a 380whp GA making 410wtq... I used the K&N and had nothing but problems from it. The AEM is also washable without any need for those pesky recharge kits too!
Correct! back in the day Purolator did a test against a K&N, the Purolator out flowed and captured more particles than the K&N. I had a K&N on my ole carbed truck, went to the beach and there was sand that had passed the K&N and was on the carb, Not good, This never happened with a regular paper filter and yes I had just serviced the K&N before I took of to the beach...I prefer dry filters myself...
