I'm planning to use nitrous for the first time, and I've been told to run wet system on my '94 Vette. Mods : boltons+cam


1-Do I need a pcm tune for that ?
2-Is it safe to run 75-100 shot ?
3-What are other recommendations ?
4- Is there any nitrous setups ready for the lt1 or should i just search for wet kits ?

 

Check with Nitrous Outlet a vendor here on this site, they have everything you need and can answer any questions you have.

 

1. You will most likely need to retard timing for proper ignition

2. Yes, if everything is hooked up correctly

3. Dry kits. You are only running a light shot so a dry kit would be more appropriate. If you didn't already know a dry kit raises fuel pressures through your injectors which causes them to add additional fuel to compensate versus a wet kit that uses a fogger to inject additional fuel. Like I said, you can run a dry kit for smaller shots safely. They are easier to hookup than wet kits because you don't have to run any fuel lines. Plus dry kits have a less chance of backfiring than wet kits due to the impossibility of intake puddling. I'd only suggest a wet kit if you're planning on going past a 100 shot because you will be able to control fuel delivery easier. But for your application, a dry kit will work just fine, will be safe, easier to install, and reliable. Just make sure you use all the safety measures and I mean ALL of them. You don't want to blow a motor just because you cheaped out and didn't buy specific items.

4. Just search for kits.

 

Your going to want to retard the timing few degree's. Run a colder plug. Id also get a 255 fuel pump if you don't have one. You could run a 150 shot safely on a stock motor. Like said nos outlet will have what you need.

 

Listen to Travis. If you're just running it for extra power and not MAX E.T.'s then just run a 100rwhp shot on a stock motor. A walbro 255lph pump is cheap and you can install it with the trap door mod (like I did). Make sure and always run a wet kit. If you are running stock head, an NGK-TR6 will be ok for the size shot (although some may tell you otherwise) A general rule is to pull 2 degrees of timing for every 50 shot, but either tune the car in real time or dyno tuning on nitrous is the best way to find out. Either way, get a few extra sets of spark plugs. I will FINALLY be starting my nitrous tuning this spring. I can't wait.

 

Safety and engine are very important to me. I don't wanna blow my engine, I just want few extra HP for the drag strip. And 75hp is enough. Even though 100 and 150 are ok. But I'm not that greedy.

I've heard that wet kits don't require tuning, and tuning is a big concern since a lot of tuners here deal with LS engines. I have to contact pcmforless or some other company which is kind of making the whole thing harder. lol

So , if there is a choice that won't need pcm tuning I will go for it.





Lot of tuners around me , but all of them work with LS engines only.


Yep , just few extra hp. I'm considering the fuel pump. Heard good things about it. Why should I make sure to run a wet kit always ?

How much do I gap the tr6 ?

 

I had set up a nitrous kit on my car, but chickened out on my aging motor and abandoned it, but you want a window switch and WOT switch to ensure it only activates from ~3500 to 6000rpm, and only at wide open throttle. A 6AL or similar can pull timing when the nitrous is activated and leaves it normal under cruising conditions. Healthy Stock shortblocks can handle a 150 wet just fine. I have a Walbro 255 without the Hotwire kit. I just had the nozzle in my maf housing, drilled and tapped I believe a 1/8-27 npt hole for the nozzle. The fuel solenoid hooks to your Schrader valve, and you put in the fuel and nitrous jets in the nozzle, sizing them appropriately. I think the rule of thumb is 2 degrees pulled per 50 shot. (Always think of boondock saints when saying rule of thumb, perhaps it should have been rule of wrist)

 

I've put ~40 bottle of nitrous through my lt1 and it had 140k on the odometer when the kit went on. I run a 100 shot but I have used the 150 before. And it worked fine on my stock tune and stock fuel pump, but I didn't feel comfortable running the 150 I was afraid my fuel pump wouldn't keep up. But I gained 1.1 seconds and 15 mph at the track bring in the spray in second gear with the 100 shot. You'll want to use a window switch to make sure it doesn't spray under 2500-3000. I have brought mine in as low as 2200. But I wouldn't recommend spraying under 3000. I just use a 50 dollar jegs window switch. Works great. I also went with 2 stage colder plugs. If you're going with a 75 the stock gaping should be fine. If you get in a bigger shot you may want to tighten the gap a little more. I have good luck with my nitrous set up. I like it. It's cheap hidden horsepower at the flip of a switch. The whole time I've used it I only had one backfire. And that was the first time I used it... Brought it in off the idle without a window switch.... Not a pretty sight and blew my throttle blades out of the throttle body. Didn't hurt anything else though. But when done right it works and is totally safe. Just read the instructions with your kit completely and buy a window switch so you don't make the mistake I did. I use a wet kit and yes a wet kit requires less tuning than a dry kit. It will spray the fuel and nitrous so the computer doesn't have to correct for the fuel, a dry shot sometimes uses a voltage booster for the fuel pump to supply the extra fuel without tuning... But I'm not familiar with that. If you have the stock tune you will probably be fine with a 75 shot. I'm doing fine with a 150 shot. And I know a guy with an ls1 on stock tune running a 225 shot. But like everyone said. A retard of timing is recommended. But if you have the stock tune it is somewhat conservative with timing anyway.

Oh and make sure you use 93 octane fuel when you're spraying. Or race fuel would be better.

Hope this helps. This is just my experience with nitrous. You may be different. And of course every engine is different. And be careful with the jump in power. A 100 hp shot will increase low rpm torque by as much as 150 ft/lbs which can sneak up on you if you spray on the street. Just don't let it surprise you and have your car turned *** backwards headed to a ditch.

 

Wet kits are not much harder to install on an LT1. Just tie into the shrader valve on the rail, if you want to keep the port for gauges or something you just need a shrader valve adapter. I got a cheap one from the local speed shop that has a gauge port on the side and NPT male on top.

 

The fuel pump will be on my list, even if I cancelled the nitrous plan.

What u mean by 6AL ?



Thanks for the info , we have a 95 octane fuel , I think it should be fine.

I wont use nitrous on streets , I just need few hp on the strip. And for sure I'm gonna use all safety stuff, I'm planning to keep my C4 though

With the 75 shot , do I need to gap the plugs when using tr6 ? or colder plugs ?

 

Colder plugs

Read through this https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...o-read-me.html

Should answer all your questions.

 

I didnt gap my plugs any, and when i started spraying when it would get above like 4000 the car would miss like crazy. I never changed the gaping on the plugs, it might be what was causing it, but i blamed it on the opti and threw on a 6a box and it fixed it. if it does it again ill probably pull the plugs and tighten the gap about 5 numbers to see if it helps. But yes you will need colder plugs, im not sure which ones i used, but youll wanna go a couple heat ranges colder, otherwise you might end up with glow plugs rather than spark plugs. that nitrous makes things get hot fast.

A 6al is an ignition box, i used a mallory 6a, which is the same thing, it is just an ignition box, makes your spark hotter, and when under 3k it will spark multiple times per stroke, but it wont affect the timing it happens so fast. all cars misfire to an extent, and on the stock setup when the inital spark is out that kills the entire stroke, but with the box sparking multiple times it allows for less error. They're a good setup on lt cars, cars with multiple coils dont really need them though cause their coils only fire 1/8th the amount a single coil setup does.

 

**** on the safety factor. All you need is a on/off switch, two solenoids and a full bottle. When the tach hits 3k, arm it and hold on. When your done, disarm it. A 75 wet shot isn't enough to do any damage to the bullet proof LT1 lowerend. Even if your running a crappy tune, .075 gapped super hot plugs and a weak coil. I WOULD run some good gas too stay away from detonation issues but the ECM should pull enough timing to keep it safe. I'd also raise the REV limiter a few 100 RPM's above your shift points so fuel doesn't get shutoff to the injectors.

 

If you are only after a few hero passes then this is the way to do it.


If you are going to run it a bunch get a timing box, change the plugs, and run good gas.

 

A 6al or equivalent would pull timing when you need it when spraying, but you could get a tune to pull x degrees all the time, as many do, but then they bitch that it's slow NA.

I've got a box of 10-16 can't remember br7s sitting on my workbench ill sell to someone cheap, brand new.

 

Br7 is too cold for a stock long block application, well for anything mild really, a br6 is a much better choice; Although they won't stay as clean as the tr6's.

I suggest a window switch, a WOT switch, an ignition control box with a retard function, and a few uses of the brain. Keep the ignition timing under control. If tuned already take 3 degrees out per 50 shot. If not, pull 2 per. A set of long tubes makes better use of the high heat/speed of the exhaust when nitrous is used.

I have always used a wet kit because i can fine tune the AFR, when spraying, a lot easier. Remember that the plugs are the ONLY thing that will tell you exactly what is happening in the CC when you are spraying so learn to read plugs if you haven't. Also keep all of your lines away from heat sources. The nitrous will turn into gas if it hits a certain degree.

 

This is pretty much it. Definitely take 99% of the advice on this site with a grain of salt but timing and nitrous dont mix. Its a lot easier to be safe with your 75-100 shot than look back with regret. My old man has made a bunch of orders with J&E because of not being careful with timing and parts of his ignition system failing. Believe me, get the right stuff and save yourself money.

 

Do it right, do it once.

 

i ran zex wet 100 shot and no problems. no tuning required for wet shots. upgrade your fuel pump for over 100 shot. no timing retarding needed unless you run over 100 shot.

 

The problem with this is that instead of using the energy generated by combustion to give the piston momentum we are transferring that heat energy onto the rotating and reciprocating assemblies, and possibly hurting them. In the process we are losing torque and horsepower. To prevent this, we recommend that you retard the ignition timing 1-1/2° to 2° for every 50 hp added through the nitrous system. This will ensure that peak cylinder pressure occurs at the same point it did before the nitrous was injected into an engine.


http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ech_tips.shtml



Been reading about that and most of them recommends retard timing.