396 stroker
02-11-2014, 08:43 AM
#42
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I was under the assumption that the OP wanted a street/strip setup. That would mean pump gas, no? Showing some 14-1 race engines running Q16 and straight headers doesn't really prove a point. Not to mention vacuum pumps and 8000rpm redlines. Back some of those guys to 12-1, and fill them up with 93 and see what happens. The Imapala's would be fine but the other guys i'm not so sure. BTW I hit 606.74 on that calculator, not 593. Best mph is 133.90. You rounded mine down to 133, yet rounded yours up to 116, lol.
I don't know what's in any of the other guys engines except for Mike's (quik95LT1). If anybody on here thinks they can just slap on similar parts to Mike's and make the same power they are in for a rude awakening. Mike is very smart and has a LOT of R+D in his setup searching for every last ounce of power. I'm sure the same could be said for Ed's car and Abare's, as those guys are consistently at the track testing and tweaking. The other guys mentioned are record holders for their respective platforms as well and probably have a lot of secrets within.
Now, getting the whole car to get down the track like that is another matter altogether, lol...
02-11-2014, 08:51 AM
#43
I looked briefly into the Callies Compstar line and you are right, for about what seems to be $200 or so more than the Eagle I could be there if my memory serves me. Questions being 1. Do they come balanced or do they need work as well; and 2. Where do you suggest I obtain one? I'd rather go with Callies to save the argument and piece of mind, but in looking at the 'dragonslayer' prices I just don't think I could abuse it enough to justify the sticker.
It will most likely need less work then the Eagle since they spend more time finishing and checking them, but it won't be any stronger. My eagle crank just needed a tiny bit of balancing and barely any heavy metal - no journal polishing or anything crazy like that - but others have had to put a lot of money into prepping and balancing them - the newer ones are supposedly much better QC then they were many years ago FWIW.
Check our sponsors and shoot them PMs before ordering to see if you can get discounts on the Callie stuff, they are great cranks especially if you can get one on sale.
02-11-2014, 04:37 PM
#44
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Ok guys, I have been approached by member 355z28 about a set of rods and pistons that he has. The pistons are JE forged 15cc dish (pn unknown at this time). The rods are Scat H-beam forged pieces that are 5.850" in length. Any preferences out there on the length of the rod? I have seen so many arguments primarily on the 383 builds on length but not so much in the 396 area, or am I just missing them? He is willing to treat me right price wise for BNIB stuff but I just don't want to pull the trigger on something that I'm gonna cause myself more problems in the end. IDEAS?
02-11-2014, 04:56 PM
#45
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All cranks need to be checked before assembly, and almost all need a bit of balancing unless you buy a pre-balanced full assembly. I would never just drop in a crank out of the box - which is what a lot of people do then have problems later.
It will most likely need less work then the Eagle since they spend more time finishing and checking them, but it won't be any stronger. My eagle crank just needed a tiny bit of balancing and barely any heavy metal - no journal polishing or anything crazy like that - but others have had to put a lot of money into prepping and balancing them - the newer ones are supposedly much better QC then they were many years ago FWIW.
Check our sponsors and shoot them PMs before ordering to see if you can get discounts on the Callie stuff, they are great cranks especially if you can get one on sale.
It will most likely need less work then the Eagle since they spend more time finishing and checking them, but it won't be any stronger. My eagle crank just needed a tiny bit of balancing and barely any heavy metal - no journal polishing or anything crazy like that - but others have had to put a lot of money into prepping and balancing them - the newer ones are supposedly much better QC then they were many years ago FWIW.
Check our sponsors and shoot them PMs before ordering to see if you can get discounts on the Callie stuff, they are great cranks especially if you can get one on sale.
http://www.callies.com/compstar/conn...-rods/i-beams/
02-11-2014, 05:09 PM
#46
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Ok guys, I have been approached by member 355z28 about a set of rods and pistons that he has. The pistons are JE forged 15cc dish (pn unknown at this time). The rods are Scat H-beam forged pieces that are 5.850" in length. Any preferences out there on the length of the rod? I have seen so many arguments primarily on the 383 builds on length but not so much in the 396 area, or am I just missing them? He is willing to treat me right price wise for BNIB stuff but I just don't want to pull the trigger on something that I'm gonna cause myself more problems in the end. IDEAS?
With a 9.000" block deck height, 3.875" crank, and 5.850" rods the compression height of those JE pistons should be 1.2125". Be sure and ask the seller what the compression height on those JE pistons is!
Also, depending on what your cylinder head combustion chamber size is, those -15cc pistons might give you a very low compression build for a reverse cooled, aluminum headed LT1.
02-11-2014, 05:46 PM
#47
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Kris72079, if the 5.850" rods and JE pistons he's looking to sell you were originally spec'ed for a 383 stroker build, then ..... the compression height on those pistons will be wrong for a 396 build.
With a 9.000" block deck height, 3.875" crank, and 5.850" rods the compression height of those JE pistons should be 1.2125". Be sure and ask the seller what the compression height on those JE pistons is!
Also, depending on what your cylinder head combustion chamber size is, those -15cc pistons might give you a very low compression build for a reverse cooled, aluminum headed LT1.
With a 9.000" block deck height, 3.875" crank, and 5.850" rods the compression height of those JE pistons should be 1.2125". Be sure and ask the seller what the compression height on those JE pistons is!
Also, depending on what your cylinder head combustion chamber size is, those -15cc pistons might give you a very low compression build for a reverse cooled, aluminum headed LT1.
02-11-2014, 06:46 PM
#48
Kris72079, if the 5.850" rods and JE pistons he's looking to sell you were originally spec'ed for a 383 stroker build, then ..... the compression height on those pistons will be wrong for a 396 build.
With a 9.000" block deck height, 3.875" crank, and 5.850" rods the compression height of those JE pistons should be 1.2125". Be sure and ask the seller what the compression height on those JE pistons is!
Also, depending on what your cylinder head combustion chamber size is, those -15cc pistons might give you a very low compression build for a reverse cooled, aluminum headed LT1.
With a 9.000" block deck height, 3.875" crank, and 5.850" rods the compression height of those JE pistons should be 1.2125". Be sure and ask the seller what the compression height on those JE pistons is!
Also, depending on what your cylinder head combustion chamber size is, those -15cc pistons might give you a very low compression build for a reverse cooled, aluminum headed LT1.
Unfortunately the car took a main bearing out and the block and crank were not save able after ordering some new parts and the car was parted.
Last edited by 355z28; 02-11-2014 at 07:01 PM.
02-11-2014, 07:21 PM
#49
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man so much good info here.
it's very costly to build a 396 Stroker trust me.my 396 has the ability to hit it with a 200 shot but I don't want to go the rest of the way to install it.
If your really into doing this and want to buy one built shoot me a pm.
I'm really thinking of pulling mine. very low miles under 1000 miles on the build.
it's very costly to build a 396 Stroker trust me.my 396 has the ability to hit it with a 200 shot but I don't want to go the rest of the way to install it.
If your really into doing this and want to buy one built shoot me a pm.
I'm really thinking of pulling mine. very low miles under 1000 miles on the build.
02-11-2014, 07:24 PM
#50
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The pistons are custom JE gas ported pistons. They were originally ran with 396 solid roller engine with a callies dragon slayer crank. They have the job # on them that can be verified by JE. I wouldn't try to sell something I wasn't confident in. They were were at 11:7:1 with a 58cc AFR head.
Unfortunately the car took a main bearing out and the block and crank were not save able after ordering some new parts and the car was parted.
Unfortunately the car took a main bearing out and the block and crank were not save able after ordering some new parts and the car was parted.
02-12-2014, 01:03 PM
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Hows it going Austin? Let me throw this out there for the masses...Obviously here is the seller^^^. I called and spoke with JE and verified the job #. They still have it on file from 2004. The pistons are 4.040 bore with a .0108" dish depth and 1.213 compression height and oil rail support. What do you all think?
02-12-2014, 02:35 PM
#52
OP I see lots of people telling you to sell your AFRs and buy something else but why not just spend the money to get those ported further. Build the all forged bottom end and put in a cam in the 24x-25x @.050 and .6xx lift and add an AFR hydra rev kt and you can get maybe 480 rwhp. But the driveability with a cam that big won't be great.
02-12-2014, 05:53 PM
#54
man so much good info here.
it's very costly to build a 396 Stroker trust me.my 396 has the ability to hit it with a 200 shot but I don't want to go the rest of the way to install it.
If your really into doing this and want to buy one built shoot me a pm.
I'm really thinking of pulling mine. very low miles under 1000 miles on the build.
it's very costly to build a 396 Stroker trust me.my 396 has the ability to hit it with a 200 shot but I don't want to go the rest of the way to install it.
If your really into doing this and want to buy one built shoot me a pm.
I'm really thinking of pulling mine. very low miles under 1000 miles on the build.
A stroker crank is a stroker crank (obviously depends on brand). I wish I went to a 396 build. I bought a Scat forged crank for $550 for my 383 and the 396 crank was the exact same price. As far as the length rods you use they are close to the same price ($10-40) as well. Only issues their is is maybe the oil pan and doing your own labor notching the block for rod clearance......... So spending an extra $200 just for a oil pan or $10-40 on specific length rods will not make or break you while building a motor. If it does, you shouldnt be building in the first place.
I agree 100% !!!!!!
02-12-2014, 06:09 PM
#55
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Just saw this. Do you suffer from Alzheimer's? You've done this repeatedly on different occasions to try and justify your efforts as well. My question is when are you going to stop trying to lamely push this alleged legacy with some budget e-bay block, .040 out of the hole, tin can that went low 10's maybe twice before breaking? Mouthed off the track conditions are the reasons for that run, mouthed off about running 9's at Cecil, went to Cecil, did not improve ET's and then broke your car. After that it's been quiet time and you can't answer whether or not that **** is running again and what exactly caused that cam dowel to just mysteriously snap on its own. Care to explain?
02-12-2014, 07:15 PM
#57
Just saw this. Do you suffer from Alzheimer's? You've done this repeatedly on different occasions to try and justify your efforts as well. My question is when are you going to stop trying to lamely push this alleged legacy with some budget e-bay block, .040 out of the hole, tin can that went low 10's maybe twice before breaking? Mouthed off the track conditions are the reasons for that run, mouthed off about running 9's at Cecil, went to Cecil, did not improve ET's and then broke your car. After that it's been quiet time and you can't answer whether or not that **** is running again and what exactly caused that cam dowel to just mysteriously snap on its own. Care to explain?
All this garbage coming from a schmo like you, lol. You know what a schmo is right? A schmo is a guy who frequents bodybuilding sites and tries to fit in by offering advice and acts like he's one of the group. You know, telling how to eat right and lift right, yet all the while he's got a 40" chest and a 52" waist, and can't lift ****. Sound familiar? You are the schmo of ltxtech. I swear I broke a rib from laughing at your "cheat meal" advice in the fitness thread. You've been on a cheat decade. You are the least qualified person on earth to be offering up nutrition/lifting advice. The same can be said for your engine building advice. They call those guys trolls on the car boards, but I think schmo fits you much better. I made a fb post about it, the replies were epic, lol.
As for my quiet time. I bought a 2014 1LE, ordered it over the summer. I've owned it for a while now. The car is amazing! I don't really think too fondly of 4th gens (never have to be honest), and i'd rather mod a 5th gen with several options of shootouts to race it at (some way closer and way better attended), than dump another $5k into a 4th gen that isn't worth anything. It's good to have these choices, I doubt you'd understand lol.
Sorry OP. Now you know why he's got a pink s/n and a Richard Simmons avatar.
02-12-2014, 07:25 PM
#58
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All the research you claim was public info on this very forum. So basically, through all that nonsense you have still avoided the two questions asked:
Does your LT1 car run? What was the cause of a cam dowel snapping? I mean your initial post of your rwhp claim makes it read like it's still running. Why not share what happened?
I can understand parroting info from another source. That's what most of this is anyway, but using a car that was built for a hot minute, didn't run what was expected, broke, yet continuously referencing it like nothing ever happened? A little shady, don't you think?
Does your LT1 car run? What was the cause of a cam dowel snapping? I mean your initial post of your rwhp claim makes it read like it's still running. Why not share what happened?
I can understand parroting info from another source. That's what most of this is anyway, but using a car that was built for a hot minute, didn't run what was expected, broke, yet continuously referencing it like nothing ever happened? A little shady, don't you think?
Last edited by SS RRR; 02-12-2014 at 08:09 PM.
02-12-2014, 08:52 PM
#59
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OP I see lots of people telling you to sell your AFRs and buy something else but why not just spend the money to get those ported further. Build the all forged bottom end and put in a cam in the 24x-25x @.050 and .6xx lift and add an AFR hydra rev kt and you can get maybe 480 rwhp. But the driveability with a cam that big won't be great.
Last edited by kris72079; 02-12-2014 at 08:59 PM.