To my surprise my next door neighbor (house has been unoccupied for 2 years) that just moved in from OKC has a 95 FBird with 169k on the clock. He just picked up a NOS Wet kit for $200 from a ricer boy right before he left Oklahoma. The car has no mods, stock manifolds and is an auto with 3.23’s. He has no clue how to hook up nitrous. He asked me if I knew how to hook a wet kit to stock LT1’s. I told him “nope don’t mess with nitrous. More of a N.A person” “LS1tech is a good place to start.”

The kit he showed me has 2 solenoids (Fuel & Spray), all the supporting hoses, grounds, and 6 jets (50-100-150---300), button and a 10 pound bottle.

Anyone have a write up so I can help this dude before he blows his **** up. I told him 100 shot is the highest I personally would go on stock tune + stock manifolds. Once I told him he’ll need long tubes to get the best out of the kit, he was short on money from the move.

 

Chances are he will kill the already tired engine by putting the kit on. Between the miles and the lack of timing retard available with the just the PCM, I would guess it would be in borrowed time.

 

My guess is the tired trans goes first; either way will get expensive quick.

 

i ran a zex 100 shot with not problems, no retarding either. my LT1 only has 40,000 miles though.

 

Neighbor keeps pestering me to the point he offered $50 to install it for him. For the wet shot does anyone know what fuel line to hook in the T-bone for the Fuel Solenoid?

 

Why not go right off the schrader valve on the fuel rail? Just make sure to pull the core out first.

 

jets for 300shot ... holy crap

anyways... Duh nailed it pull fuel off the schrader valve

install the nozzle between the throttle body and Maf, not before it the maf

get the guy to invest in a window switch and a WOT switch so he doesn't accidently activate it in the low rpm

 

jets for 300shot ... holy crap

anyways... Duh nailed it pull fuel off the schrader valve

install the nozzle between the throttle body and Maf, not before it the maf

get the guy to invest in a window switch and a WOT switch so he doesn't accidently activate it in the low rpm

 

He has a little bag of all the jets. The jets are that are on the nozzle are .032 on the nitrous and the fuel jet is .020. (50 shot~). The fogger/nozzle is going on the intake elbow (the opposite side of the Air temp sensor). He has a T-bone fitting for the wet shot. What hose should I put that T-bone in? There are three little ones coming from the driver side. Which one is the best bet?

Elaborate on what you mean about pulling the fuel Schrader valves. I need detailed info so I don’t blow this guys motor.

aint going to work on this one!

 

start small and work your way up, i'd start with that 50 shot and do lots of data logging

The schrader valve is a test port on the back of the intake, it's where you hook up a fuel pressure gauge.

picture

The schrader valve is setup like the valve stem of a tire, just take the valve out and find the correct fitting to connect your fuel line to the valve

doing it this way means you dont have to cut and splice the fuel lines

 

Apologize about that guys now I know. What FP gauge would you recommend? Or is there a cheap Chinese bs ricer one he might want?

 

no mention of plugs??? hes gonna send a rod through the block or trans is gonna go. tell him to save up and do it right. meaning rebuild the engine and trans first. its gonna need it eventually. anyway nitrousoutlet has the instructions for the install. search shark wet kit. out one on mine. took about a day. took my time and did a clean install.

 

Of course the plugs. I pulled one the other day and he had the Delco 41-906’s. They didn’t look like they were running too lean or too rich. They don’t look that old at all. He runs 5w-40 Rotella. Told him he needed a colder plug (NGK TR6’s), he agreed but questions about the gap? I also have this question as well.

Just from the looks of it though it looks like he needs a new fuel solenoid. Half of one of the 2 wires is soldered onto it. Just barely holding on right on the part where the solenoid meets the wire.

The NO2 Solenoid is fine and actually has a bracket.

Anyone have any pics of there 2 solenoids bolted on the top of their fuel rail bolt?

 

my guess is... Trans goes first and then takes engine with it with over rev and NOS back fire. SOo if he wants a one hit wonder why not just go big. Hook up a leaf blower to the intake pipe as well. Sorry but driving it, even in its slow stock state is better then having the car become a freakin garage storage unit for the next several months. Engine and trans just out of a junk yard is gonna cost him at least 2k to get running in the car again. You and I are in the same salvage area(I-4) and the **** aint cheap here.

 

Why do you say it like he or I are stupid enough to run a 300 dry shot on a stock tune, forgetting about long tubes, stock trans, ect. Of-course the supporting mods are crucial but I’m just trying to help this guy out. Sure its a step by step process but that is what this forum is for. For help, education, inspiration, and making the right steps. Yes naming all the bad things that will happen will let us know what is common sense, but what helps even more is the help. Not the criticism! The smart *** doesn’t help.

I want to help this guy out and at the same time, I could learn a thing or 2 about spray along the way. It may not be my car that is at risk, but the whole thing is my risk since I’m doing the work for him. And I can only depend on reading, hearing your guys good information that you take the time to give out, improving on what steps to take in order to not have this job half ***.

I realize the risk on the trans & motor. But its an insult thinking that is not in the back of my mind. He blows both then thats his fault. Fair warning.

Its no surprise that stock tuned LT1’s are recorded to take the abuse of 125 shot. But that is not my plan for his set-up. A Mild 50-75 wet shot is all he wants & is already ordering more parts needed for a clean set-up. In the mean time I finished the installation just to test out the whole thing. I did a basic set-up of a single fogger into the intake elbow. Both Fuel and Nitrous Solenoids are bolted on top of the fuel rails. The fuel Solenoid is routed to where you obviously check your fuel pressure at. Bottle is right under the the glove box (he only had enough hose to reach the NO2 Solenoid bolted on the front of the fuel rail), with bottle heater hooked in the pressure remained a steady 1050-1100. As far as wiring I tucked in both solenoid grounds & 12v’s in the wiring harness loom. The switch he had was a wide open switch but he wanted the option of hitting it at whatever time he wanted while in WOT.

Got done with the whole thing last night and took a good test drive with a 50 shot and and it had the most kick in 1st & 3rd, 4th. Assured the guy about the risks on a stock trans, and tune. We sprayed several times, never overheated, only WOT hits and no problems. But its in the obvious not to be as dumb as ricer kids and beat the living **** out of it when there are no mods.

The things he is lacking & what I think he needs is:
Arming switch
Fuse relay
A quality & conveniently accessible button
More extended NO2 lines to put the bottle in where the spare tire use to be
A tune, Injectors cleaned, flow tested & reconditioning, some timing pulled
Long Tube headers with EGR
Nitrous Outlet fogger plate in between the TB & intake

Along with a bunch of other things.

Anyways I appreciate the help guys regardless of all the pessimistic comments. Lol