No need for an engine swap to run high 11's. Do exhaust/heads/cam and supporting mods and with a bigger stall and tires you should be there. That's what I'm working towards as well on my '95 car.

 

stall converter, cold air intake, Magnaflow exhaust, Nitto drag radials, headers

Wish my car came stock with all that!

lol

 

My car has the Maryland Air mod, bolt ons with a converter ran 12.7@104 with a 1.6 60'. Little bolts ons like suspension and a stall converter go a long way.

 

You most likely will need an LS1 swap or like 200hp of nitrous to run sub 12s.

 

bwahahahah!.....LSWhat?
In one of these kid-car F-bodies?.....sub 12s?.....come on, man......bolt-on's, no nitrous!.....piece of cake

OP, sorry it's no "freak"
....just a nice running car
I was running 13.5's in a REAL car.....aka BOAT!... with a STOCKtorque converter!

 

thats not crazy, i ran 13.9 bone stock. paper filter and bald tires. running 13.2 now with just bolt ons and tune and decent, albeit, road racing tires.

 

Maybe I should have read more before I made that title lol. The Lt1 block is nothing special to keep imo. It's not a block readily available here and the aftermarket is alot less compared to the tried and true sbc. A ls swap is out of the question, I'd have to change the steering rack, get ls accessories etc, plus the cost is way too much.

I think that with my 383 forged eagle rotating assembly with a 276hr cam with 1.6 rr, rpm air gap and a set of profilers, holley 750dp, 3800 stall, I'll have close to 450 rwhp... and if not, i'll add some juice.

Right now it's all about cheap as possible with what i have, heads/roller rockers/intake on a 383, and the availability of 350 sbc's locally.

 

Great run my friend! Strong runner for sure! Don't listen to all these hooligans! Bolt on's with either a mild cam or small shot will get you high 11's!

Remember there is ALOT more to being quick then just making power!

 

Had a customer with full on suspension, and just a street tune, motor completely bone stock down to the paper filter, manifolds ect. Ran 13.0 and with a 100 shot, ran 12.1, Yes :LT's can do it..

 

I have been telling my buddy who started this thread that his LT1, with a higher stall, 373's, tune, drag radials, high 12's for sure. I have a 94 Z28, that I am installing a set of longtube Pacesetter's with their y-pipe, I already got a 3200 converter, with a Moroso, CAI, PCM4LESS Tune, and a Transgo- shiftkit, and I am getting a set of drag radials, with 323's and I am going for high 12's this yr at the track. We have a common friend who has a 3rd gen F-Body, with a 350 Vortec, who thinks he is faster than the 2 of us I can't wait to line up with him..

 

i dont think he will make 12s with just that. that's nothing and wont pick up more than 2 or 3 tenths.
you probably wont break 12s either. but youll be alot closer than him.

 

Not only is that not stock but thats slow as **** at sea level. My car ran 14.10@97 stock with NO MODS on all seasons. Im 220 lbs and my car has 200k miles. You got a turd.

 

So your telling me that a higher stall with 373 gears and a tune with the mods he has now, he won't break high 12's idk I have to disagree with you on that. We have a common friend with a Bolton LT1, that ran 12.8 in good air..

 

To me, the stock lt1 motor isn't real interest to me, I'm a carb guy. Won't be hauling any motors till I know exactly what route to take, i'm focussed more on the 8.8 rear i'm building.

Bird... friend wouldn't be the best choice of words lol.

 

Lol those mods should be good for 12s no problem. I have similar mods and ran a 12.7

 

^^^^^
Totally agreed. I ran an 8.09@86 and a 12.8@108 with basic bolt ons. 3000 stall, mid length headers, rockers, 4.10s and drag radials. Full weight with AC and all. Power windows, locks, mirrors, cd, etc. 0 weight reduction , no electric water pump,no tune, no underdrive pulley, no FPR. It's very possible without even full bolt ons. The bolt on record is 11.54, by the way. Don't be discouraged by the pessimistic, OP.

 

I guess the only thing to believe is what not you read but what the timeslip says. I use to be a bench racer, in theory this and in theory that. I'm planning to stick to my original plan and add a few things to see how far i can get the e.t's down without touching the motor. Everywhere I have read have said the weak point is the heads, so without good heads you still have a basic 350 block, no power gain over a sbc block. It's all in the heads and cam and cubes.

The way i look at it is this, use what i already have, a forged 383 bottom end gen 1 sbc with a decent xe276hr cam. get some good flowing heads, 1.6rr and a good intake and carb, and i'll be in the 11's... I'll sell the lt1 since i have no use for it.

 

The heads are the best part of the LT1...... Reverse cooled for ease of running high compression on pump gas. They flow damn good with a quality port job. Tuning the car is as easy as calling up PCMforless and getting a tune made for your build. You're really not money ahead swapping to a Gen I IMO. But do whatever you want I guess.

 

you think he's gunna drop over 8 tenths without even touching headers? your living in a dream world.

 

correct me if i'm wrong but i though it was the aluminum heads that allowed more compression by like 1 point.

A good port job will benefit almost any head, I priced up porting the heads and I can't justify spending $1500 on a port job when I can get a set of Profilers than flow better unported... if i had the cash sure why not, but the aftermarket has alot more choice for the traditional sbc rather than the Lt1. IMO

Some people are die hard LT1 fans and just like some like carbs over F.I. I'm a simplistic person when it comes to cars, and i do things that are economically sound and something i can do the work to. We don't have a lt1 tuner here on this island. We have to send away for tunes like Birdracing did, I still may need a tune because of a rear gear chance so it'll be interesting what a tune will net me in e.t's...

I just got the car last year and I already have some things I wanna change, throttle body bypass, tubular control arms, panhard bar, LCARBS, and a set of good stickys.

I'll post my results and we'll see what it does...just need the damn snow to melt... i wish i lived down south.