If you wanted to re-harden any reworked areas on the guidplates, heat them to cherry red and quench in oil.

 

I think you misunderstood my statement, sir. I think you are referring to my statement where I said I have not seen a PR walk when a lifter was bled down. Sorry, I should have been more clear. What I mean by that is while adjusting PR's like the person I was addressing was doing, I have not seen a PR walk or show potential of walking off the plunger while rotating the engine while the engine is not running. Now, about that lifter thing generating aerated oil and valvetrian wear compensation thing you were mentioning earlier, can I have a reference? Thanks

That's not very helpful at all. I have a question, cardo0, sir. The Comp Cams "R" lifters I bought years ago came with written instructions stating to adjust the rockers .006 to .008 pash zero lash for best results. With the studs I was using that equated to approximately 1/16 to 1/8 turn past zero lash. Why would that say that when placing too little preload is a bad thing?

Thanks again.

 

I think you misunderstood my statement, sir. I think you are referring to my statement where I said I have not seen a PR walk when a lifter was bled down. Sorry, I should have been more clear. What I mean by that is while adjusting PR's like the person I was addressing was doing, I have not seen a PR walk or show potential of walking off the plunger while rotating the engine while the engine is not running. Now, about that lifter thing generating aerated oil and valvetrian wear compensation thing you were mentioning earlier, can I have a reference? Thanks

That's not very helpful at all. I have a question, cardo0, sir. The Comp Cams "R" lifters I bought years ago came with written instructions stating to adjust the rockers .006 to .008 past zero lash for best results. With the studs I was using that equated to approximately 1/16 to 1/8 turn past zero lash. Why would the instructions say this when placing too little preload is a bad thing?

Thanks again.

 

I ran the 273 adjustable rockers on my '69 340 Dart hydraulic flat tappet all set at .001" cold.

 

I think you misunderstood my statement, sir. I think you are referring to my statement where I said I have not seen a PR walk when a lifter was bled down. Sorry, I should have been more clear. What I mean by that is while adjusting PR's like the person I was addressing was doing, I have not seen a PR walk or show potential of walking off the plunger while rotating the engine while the engine is not running.

I think your a chronic liar.

Now, about that lifter thing generating aerated oil and valvetrian wear compensation thing you were mentioning earlier, can I have a reference? Thanks

Where did i say the lifter "generating aerated oil"? How come u distort my statements??


I have a question, cardo0, sir.

I could care less what crap u use. And i dont trust what u say anyways. The lifters i use have a preload of 0.20" to 0.060" or 1/2 to 1 full turn.

And heres Comps hyd roller instructions: As stated before, the recommended setting is 1 turn of the wrench on the rocker arm adjusting nut past zero.
This is at: http://www.compcams.com/Instructions.../COMP4-140.pdf

So if u think its odd then ask Comp cams. So if u actually care then call Comp and ask why theirs is different and post your results for us.

Have fun.

 

Sometimes you are difficult to understand. Why not help me out by explaining where this aerated oil is coming from...

Thanks


The lifters you reference are not the same, sir. The Comp R lifters required very little preload. Can you explain why?
Do you think my solid lifters bled down too much causing slack in valvetrain and messing up everything?

 

"It is a myth that in certain circumstances, a lifter can "pump up" and create negative valve clearance. The engine oil pump cannot generate enough pressure to cause "pump-up". The problem is due to weak valve springs which permit float at high engine speeds. The followers attempt to take up what they see as extra clearance. As this speed is maintained, the lifter will continue to expand until the valve is held off its seat when it should be closed. Maintenance of the valve springs at the correct strength is therefore very important to avoid engine damage."

Wiki on hydraulic tappets haha

 

lulz @ comp R lifters, silly SSRRRRRR maybe thats why your massive SR 397 motor runs 12s. Bet card00 could get that slug into the 10s with a tune up.

 

Well my car may be a dog but it has 250,000 miles on it and i can/do drive it every day.

 

Why not help me out by explaining where this aerated oil is coming from...

Help a chronic liar? If u had a real name and address i could send medical assistance to help u. Like your afraid to google "aerated oil in a hydraulic lifter"? I did and plenty of hits that explain it.

Ull find this: A STUDY OF AERATION EFFECTS ON DIRECT
ACTING HYDRAULIC VALVE TRAIN SYSTEMS

The presence of this entrained air makes the engine oil compressible, which
prevents the hydraulic lifter from transmitting the proper cam motion to the valve. This
makes the valve open and close at the incorrect timing.

Read up at:https://www.google.com/search?q=aera...x-a&channel=sb


The lifters you reference are not the same, sir. The Comp R lifters required very little preload. Can you explain why?

I really dont care why your lifters are different. Why didnt u contact Comp?? Again u should seek medical assistance for your chronic mental problems instead of displaying them on car forums.

 

Oh that is great info! Thanks!
My next question- If there is aerated oil being exposed to the lifters, wouldn't it effect a valve lift event regardless of how much past lash the plunger has been adjusted?
So far you are being an awesome help!

Well, see, because the written instructions which came in the box of lifters, as well as the overwhelming consensus of those who've ran them and who've adjusted them as such, I really didn't feel the need to call Comp to have them tell me the same thing? Reason being is most of them know far less than you, cardo0. Seems you have a better grasp on this than them, therefore I would like to consult you regarding this matter, if I may?

Thanks again!

 

 

SSRRR, I don't know why I ever trusted Comp. I have the "R" lifters and am using that tiny bit of preload. But, I can't explain how my engine runs perfectly and when I checked the preload after 8 years of running, it was still right there where I set it originally. My engine must be immune to the terrible effects mentioned in this thread.

 

wow. so much dumb in here.... if we put this much time and energy to making our cars faster we would have a lot more ten second cars. hehe

 

I used those lifters also, as well as the minimal preload. I took them out, however, as A) they were noisy, and B) I realized I didn't have a race car, and lowering my "get to work ET" by 2 seconds really wasn't all that necessary....

 

Comp "R" series lifters have a lash spec of zero to 1/8 turn. These are not "standard" hydraulic lifters which will typically have 1/2 to 1 turn past zero lash

many run standard lifters at 1/4 lash on motors they spin past 6000 rpms

"stock" motors lash in a FSM will say 1/2 to 1 1/2 turns past zero.

Being at "zero" lash is often something people don't find correctly so they wind up over lashing their valves. "zero" lash is when there is no up/down movement of PR while slowly tightening poly (if running RR) with fingers, NOT when you feel drag by spinning the PR with your fingers

 

I agree.....

 

You need to learn how to use the multi-quote feature on this forum, your method is about as annoying as the **** you post.

 

I have only ever seldom heard of those suggesting to use nothing past lash on Comp R's and must say that is an extremely ridiculous idea. Makes me wonder if that was part of the problem with many of those claiming the retainer clips that hold the plunger in place broke, then villainized the lifters.

What? No valvetrain wear? Wait, isn't the hydraulic lifter supposed to compensate for that? I'm lost. Cardo0? Help!

 

when I did run the "R" series I spoke with COMP tech about lash and was advised to set them "zero but NO MORE than 1/8 turn". I had no problem with the "R" series lifters lashed that way.

My feeling on the reports of the R series lifters retainer clips coming out or breaking were in most part due to over lash which kept the very short plunger travel of the R lifter pretty much collapsed so at high RPM's the lifter shiats itself and parts (retaining clips) came off/broke. Again most likely due to over lash BECAUSE the impression of "zero" lash was not correct in the first place. Some also ignored or did not know R series lifters had a much lower lash window than a standard 850 lifter