Well **** there might be hope yet.

Did he send the heads to LE? How do you know they are LE1s?

 

He never showed me any paper work directly from le but when I asked him what heads he replied with stock le1 heads

 

paperwork/receipts/part #'s aka "build sheet" would add some "clarity" to this thread.

if builder said LE1 heads....wtf isn't/didn't he recommend a "LE" cam vs a Hot cam. Again I would recommend the LE cam over off the shelf, especially with his heads

also IIRC LE "stamps" ID on the heads....is there such a marking???

 

Thank god. 11.2 sounds low, but is possible with a stock head gasket and no decking of the block or milling of the heads.

Are you sure he said L"E"1 and not L"T"1 with his accent? If those pics you posted are of the heads you got from the machine shop, they are stock LT1, not LE1.

That compression with a Hot Cam is a bad bad idea. Especially with the 92 Octane they serve in Phoenix Plus the Phoenix summer heat. I'd recommend you call Lloyd and spec one out. I'd imagine a minimum of his 224/230 cam, but even that may be too small.

Mind you to get down to a 11.2:1 compression on an LT1 385 (.040" over and 3.75" Stroke) and flat top pistons (assuming minus 7cc valve reliefs, the largest KB makes in flat top form) you'd HAVE to NOT deck the block at all (doubtful), not mill the heads(Definitely not happening on LE1's), AND use a really thick head gasket (0.049 compressed or thicker).

But this brings up a big problem for you. 0.049" Compressed head gasket plus 0.025" deck height gives you a 0.074" Quench. Really really bad for pre-detonation on 11.2:1 compression and 125+ degree intake temps in Phoenix. You can help that out with a .021" compressed thickness Impala LT1 gasket for a quench of .046" (which is much much better), but this raises compression to 12.1:1.

Surprisingly the higher compression will actually help prevent pre-detonation more than the lower CR will. But it will also affect your choices in cam selection. Think bigger, like 232/240 size.

Please clarify the Heads, are they actually LE1's (not stock, but stock ported) or Stock LT1's.

Also verify if the block was decked at all too.

Happy to hear he put the better of the two cast stroker cranks in. Did he also balance the rotating assembly?

 

Great news on the crank and compression. The fact he said "stock LE1 heads" with an accent plus your paid price of only $2700 and the hotcam selection makes me think he said stock LT1 heads, not LE1. Which is fine, your bottom end is built decently, get it running and then upgrade heads and cam later. Just don't expect a rocketship of any sort, it still will barely be faster than stock until you get better heads and a bigger cam on there. But at least your bottom end isn't a time bomb. Overall, $2700 for an assembled bottom end with a decent cast crank isn't bad. Figure $1000 for machine work, $1200 for rotating assembly, his profit of $500, I highly doubt they are LE1 heads. I just wish the JEGS retard would have steered you towards the comp 230/236 or a cc306 or something bigger than a measly hotcam.

 

Scat crank? cast or forged?

 

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/crankshafts/scat-9-103750-pro-stock-cast-steel-replacment-crankshaft.html

 

They are not LE1 heads. $2700 does not buy LE1 heads, 383 conversion parts and machine work. Sorry.

Using stock air box and exhaust manifolds?

 

Using a Borla exhaust system with dougs short headers

 

Shortys are not enough for a 383 to breathe through, does your machinist not understand the need for air in air out? Tiny heads tiny headers = not going to make it to your 420 goal.

 

Here is what I wanted at first but what do you think about the 2nd link?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Doug%26%23039%...325-R/10002/-1
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1127-pa...1-headers.aspx

 

Search some recent threads. There are some niceer long tubes available for less.

 

Do not trust that scat crank anymore then an eagle. The ratio may make the scat look like its better but still runs about the same risk of breaking for no reason. Build it and plan on taking this thing back to a builder and buying a scat forged crank unbalanced and spending time and money to have him balance the bottom end and reassemble it. then it will be a sold reliable bottom end.

 

Well here is an update. One of my customers I have came in asked about my car I told him my story. He says he has a machinist who builds LS and LT engines. Would of been nice to know. So I am taking it to him he will figure out what this dipshit did to my engine.

I did finally figure out what he did with the compression. He bought kb flat top pistons and didn't adjust anything just put them in.


http://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-40760BI/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710611096&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=18087 22425&cadevice=m&gclid=COOI8eD7tb4CFQGTfgodJEgAZA

 

If I were you, I'd show your new machinist this thread and have him reassure you he knows what he's doing with LT engines. You're only betting your money on it.

Good luck with it.

 

Here is a video of my engine so far...

 

Is that the old machinist? I'd get that hot cam out of there.

 

Its way to easy to criticize other peoples mechanic on line, none of us know the work is bad, I agree on a better cam shaft choice, but a couple hundred spent on heads, 350 on a mail order tune with fuel pressure bumped, better springs and he will have a nice running street car. He won't need to go over 6 or 6100. He probably just wants to spin a tire and sound good.

It all depends on your expectation and your wallet.

Just my 2 pennies

 

I had pacesetter shorts on my 95 T A, they were a night mare to work around, went with Pacestter long tube, much easier to work on and install.
Hope this helps.

 

This is very true, it is easy to judge someone else's work online. But, it's not like we all blindly started bashing on the guys mechanic, some did; but most waited to cast judgment.

On another note, show me where I can get $200 worth of work done to heads that end up decent. Valve guides, seals, seats, plus cleaning costs more than that. Throw in a 3 angle (not even 5 angle) and milling with out port and polish and my local machinists (notice that is plural; I got many quotes) will hook those up to the tune of about $600/pr. That's not counting port and polish, new valves, springs, or retainers. This is why Lloyd Elliot and AI are doing so well, they offer incredible value.

I feel like you haven't read through most of this thread. Cause what you are saying and what the OP is saying are different things.