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I found the coil to distributor spark wire touching the water pump. Moved it away and it got better. I still lug and ping a bit but now it does it at about 195 coolant temp (IAT at over 100°F). I think it's in the tune now. I think my spark and afr corrections are off for coolant temp.
Mine was arcing there too, it created a carbon trail for it to repeat the spark path even when I moved it, so I ghetto electrical taped the **** around the black mark all around the boot up to where it starts to have to twist back to the coil and it worked. Same thing here, only happened halfway to work when it got warm.
Any who I ordered and installed some Stagg Shocks, Summit Lowering Springs, Founders Performance LCA Relocation Brackets and Adjustable Panhard bar, and Strut tower brace.
Sorry to bump this thread from
The dead on such a stupid question, but I've recently wrapped the suspension up on my car and I noticed you have a similar set up as me with the founders parts. Did you go with tubular LCA's along with the relocation brackets? I have noticed a huge difference in traction on the most aggressive setting, you had any luck with them? Oh and by the way what in the world are stagg shocks? I have never heard of them! Lol
Sorry to bump this thread from
The dead on such a stupid question, but I've recently wrapped the suspension up on my car and I noticed you have a similar set up as me with the founders parts. Did you go with tubular LCA's along with the relocation brackets? I have noticed a huge difference in traction on the most aggressive setting, you had any luck with them? Oh and by the way what in the world are stagg shocks? I have never heard of them! Lol
I'm still on the stock lca's. Tubular are on the long list. Lol. I'm lowered about 1.25" and used the lowest hole on the relocation brackets, which puts me right at 2° down to the back. Traction is good, but my tires are not the best so I can only give so much there. But I can say I don't get wheel or brake hop. So I'm happy there.
Founders makes an excellent product at an outstanding price. I'd recommend them to anyone.
Stagg shocks are a cheap *** brand of shocks. I will say the quality is great though, especially for the price ($160 for the set IIRC). They've served me well for the last couple years, and do well with the summit springs (progressive rate, so softer). The front shocks are starting to loosen up a bit and are due for replacement soon though (about 20k miles or so I think, so the price is showing. But to be fair mossy of those miles were on Tucson roads; which are the 5th worst in the nation). I'll probably go with Stagg again. But we'll see how that goes once I hit an actual road course and push the limits of my car for long periods at a time.
I'm still on the stock lca's. Tubular are on the long list. Lol. I'm lowered about 1.25" and used the lowest hole on the relocation brackets, which puts me right at 2° down to the back. Traction is good, but my tires are not the best so I can only give so much there. But I can say I don't get wheel or brake hop. So I'm happy there.
Founders makes an excellent product at an outstanding price. I'd recommend them to anyone.
Stagg shocks are a cheap *** brand of shocks. I will say the quality is great though, especially for the price ($160 for the set IIRC). They've served me well for the last couple years, and do well with the summit springs (progressive rate, so softer). The front shocks are starting to loosen up a bit and are due for replacement soon though (about 20k miles or so I think, so the price is showing. But to be fair mossy of those miles were on Tucson roads; which are the 5th worst in the nation). I'll probably go with Stagg again. But we'll see how that goes once I hit an actual road course and push the limits of my car for long periods at a time.
The list never ends lol. The tubular ones seemed to stiffen it up a bit more an make it a little more agile. I guess there's weight savings as well. Well if they held up through those roads id say they're a fairly quality product. I have bilstein/strano combo and it's all around good setup. Luckily I found them used together already assembled and got them dirt cheap. I don't know if you have sub frame connectors or not, but if you don't Id recommend that before the tubular control arms. Other than switching the shocks that was the biggest difference I noticed, I bought mine from a company called J&M, they are fairly cheap but look very well built and are holding up really nicely. Road course is a blast! Especially in a rattle trap fbody lol. Auto-x is good too, a little more fun if you ask me cause you can really throw the thing around out there in parking lots.
I'm mixed about the sub-frame connectors. Some say big difference, others say no difference. After driving years on Tucson roads though, and sliding off the road in my last accident, they may help a bit.
I'm mixed about the sub-frame connectors. Some say big difference, others say no difference. After sourcing years on Tucson roads though and sliding off the road in my last accident, they may help a bit.
I don't really feel like bolt on ones would make a difference. I just noticed my car was much less tail happy on launches. But my motor is just bolt on and yours is a beast
I'm mixed about the sub-frame connectors. Some say big difference, others say no difference. After sourcing years on Tucson roads though and sliding off the road in my last accident, they may help a bit.
It's a night and day difference for a t-top car, that's for sure. Probably one of the most noticeable suspension mods along with LCAs, lowering springs, and sway bars.
It's a night and day difference for a t-top car, that's for sure. Probably one of the most noticeable suspension mods along with LCAs, lowering springs, and sway bars.
I second that, my strano bars made a huge difference. Compared to that pencil stick sway bar for the rear that was stock... LOL. I put them on at the same time as I did the SFC's & LCA relocation brackets, so I'm not sure what made the biggest difference. Id assume the SFCs, however there is virtually no body roll at all after doing the strano bars.
It's a night and day difference for a t-top car, that's for sure. Probably one of the most noticeable suspension mods along with LCAs, lowering springs, and sway bars.
Originally Posted by VoyagerCamaro
I second that, my strano bars made a huge difference. Compared to that pencil stick sway bar for the rear that was stock... LOL. I put them on at the same time as I did the SFC's & LCA relocation brackets, so I'm not sure what made the biggest difference. Id assume the SFCs, however there is virtually no body roll at all after doing the strano bars.
Sway bars are on the short list. Being broke sucks. ....
I second that, my strano bars made a huge difference. Compared to that pencil stick sway bar for the rear that was stock... LOL. I put them on at the same time as I did the SFC's & LCA relocation brackets, so I'm not sure what made the biggest difference. Id assume the SFCs, however there is virtually no body roll at all after doing the strano bars.
The sway bars and springs are what eliminate the body roll.....the subframe connectors actually stiffen up the whole chassis of the car quite a bit; you notice it going over train tracks and going down the highway over bumps and expansion joints don't result in squeaks, rattles, or unwanted body movements from the front/rear subframes moving around like stock f-bodys do. It also seems to launch better/straighter IMO. A f-body with full aftermarket stiff a$$ suspension does not have to be a "rattletrap".
Sway bars are on the short list. Being broke sucks. ....
Oh I know, being 17 there aren't to many job opportunities to make a lot of money. Luckily I just found a new job with a slight raise in pay but way more hours. If it weren't for clist and the classifieds on here my car would be bone stock... lol I think the only thing new I have bought for it (performance wise) has been headers and the SFC's.
Oh I know, being 17 there aren't to many job opportunities to make a lot of money. Luckily I just found a new job with a slight raise in pay but way more hours. If it weren't for clist and the classifieds on here my car would be bone stock... lol I think the only thing new I have bought for it (performance wise) has been headers and the SFC's.
Finally got sick enough of my ugly dents to make time to do something about it. Still a work in progress. And it certainly isn't the best way to go about doing this repair. But, IDC it's not going to be worth any more with a proper weld in 1/4 panel repair than this method.
Any who, I went to town with my slide hammer, sledge hammer, crow bar, and small ball peen hammer. I was able to pull the dent out another inch or so. But, the area around the gas cap is not coming out any further so it stays where it is and I'll have to body fill the $#!T out of it. Meh, oh well. It'll look pretty when it's all done.
Also, I found a good deal on some OE Wheels ZR1 Duplicates on Craigslist ($400). The fronts (17x9.5) needed new tires (had 555 Extreme ZR, but I went with BF Goodrich Comp 2 A/S) The rears (17x11) came with still good 555 Extreme ZR tires (315/35R17). I then sold my old Z06 Wheels which turned out to be replica's and only 9.5" wide wheels- yes, I should've looked. But, I sold them for what I bought them for ($400) and I made sure the next guy knows they are replica's and all that jazz.
I also did the LS1 brake swap, easy mod and cost me $250 or so (for new rotors and pads,used lower control arms - I needed these anyway-, used spindles, used calipers, plus new stainless steel brake lines). The brake feel is much softer (so worse), but the stopping power is greatly increased. I can brake stand now, whereas before with the LT1 brakes I would push through the front brakes.
I'm still dealing with Voltage drop (and a seemingly related speedometer delay issue) at over 6K rpms (dash indicated). I found an ASP under drive pulley kit (with belt and both pulleys) on Ebay for $36 shipped. I'll be installing that next weekend. Hopefully the voltage drop goes away with that swap, and maybe my accessories will last longer than a year.....
Next weekend I should be able to work this quarter panel some more. I ordered a gas door for a 00-05 Mitsubshi Eclipse to replace the mangled piece I removed ($17 shipped). There's a simple write up on that here.
The voltage drop issue is fixed. 2 more bad alternators later, then a refund, and new one from a different brand and that issue is fixed. I also installed the U/D pulleys as a precautionary.
The speedometer is still delayed. I replaced the meter (motor?!), still lags. I can't seem to figure it out. the only thing left is a possible load on the speedometer signal from the currently inop cruise control module. I've already replaced the VSS, the alternator, the pulleys, battery, and speedometer needle motor. I'll be disconnecting the Cruise Control Module next time I take her out and see if that helps. Ugh.
I did fab up a new portion of 1/4 panel for the fuel door. But, I can't bring my self to install it as it's so ghetto. I'll hopefully be getting some new battery powered tools in 6 months or less, and a welder sooner than that. Once I have those, I'll be replacing that whole 1/4 panel. So I find it pointless to do any further repairs until then. Although, I may take that new section of panel I made and drifter stitch it on until I can do a proper repair. It would look better. It'd be something to do on a day I'm bored.
I don't drive it as much anymore as I bought another vehicle. A 1995 C1500 5.7L TBI Ext. Cab for $500. Score. Mechanically, it just needed a tune up, some fluids topped off, greased up, and a pitman arm, plus a really good wash (it was a farm truck). Runs and drive me daily now. Cosmetically, it needs work. LOL. But, alas, that won't last long as my brother is in a pinch and will be taking the truck for a while as soon as he gets time to make it up here to grab it from me.
I love tbi 350 gmt400s, I swear those are the best trucks to beat around in. The best truck I ever had was a 95 with the f44 6600 gvwr package with the 14 bolt sf rear end, wish I never sold it as I can't find another.
06-02-2015, 05:18 PM
