95' LT1 Loses all power on key turn
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95' LT1 Loses all power on key turn
Hey all!
First time poster here but long time lurker. I have been fighting my 95' Formula Firebird for about a year now and I am just about ready to pull what little hair I have left out--so I am hoping someone can help me out! Here's what I have;
1995 Formula Firebird w/ 220k and T6 manual. Initial problem was that the car would sometimes not start. No power to anything---no lights, no crank, nothing. It was very infrequent but it started happening more often until eventually it wouldn't start at all. Whenever it did happen, I just let it sit for a while.
From what I have read it sounded like the VATS system, so instead of messing around with any complicated fix--I just measured the resistance of my key and soldered a matching resistor to bypass. Now I have a new / more complicated problem (it didn't fix the initial problem from what I can tell).
Now I can turn the key onto accessory power to get lights / radio--whatever. But the moment I turn the key to start the car, everything dies. I am at the end of my rope with this thing now. The engine runs beautifully even after 220k miles, IF I can get the freaking thing started!
Any help / ideas / things I can test would be very appreciated. If this isn't the correct forum please let me know and I will move / delete it!
First time poster here but long time lurker. I have been fighting my 95' Formula Firebird for about a year now and I am just about ready to pull what little hair I have left out--so I am hoping someone can help me out! Here's what I have;
1995 Formula Firebird w/ 220k and T6 manual. Initial problem was that the car would sometimes not start. No power to anything---no lights, no crank, nothing. It was very infrequent but it started happening more often until eventually it wouldn't start at all. Whenever it did happen, I just let it sit for a while.
From what I have read it sounded like the VATS system, so instead of messing around with any complicated fix--I just measured the resistance of my key and soldered a matching resistor to bypass. Now I have a new / more complicated problem (it didn't fix the initial problem from what I can tell).
Now I can turn the key onto accessory power to get lights / radio--whatever. But the moment I turn the key to start the car, everything dies. I am at the end of my rope with this thing now. The engine runs beautifully even after 220k miles, IF I can get the freaking thing started!
Any help / ideas / things I can test would be very appreciated. If this isn't the correct forum please let me know and I will move / delete it!
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Alternator yes, but starter not yet. When it does (or used to) crank, it would start after MAYBE 2-3 cranks, it seems like a very strong starter (it was replaced ~2 years ago). Thanks!
#7
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Before you try and start what does your volt-meter read? If it's more than the redzone....
I'm going with a bad battery connection. Remove cables again, clean all terminals, contacts, and mounts thoroughly with sand paper and steel brushes. Reconnect contacts and terminals with electro contact grease (white lithium). Re-Charge battery if necessary. Try to start.
I'm going with a bad battery connection. Remove cables again, clean all terminals, contacts, and mounts thoroughly with sand paper and steel brushes. Reconnect contacts and terminals with electro contact grease (white lithium). Re-Charge battery if necessary. Try to start.
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Before you try and start what does your volt-meter read? If it's more than the redzone....
I'm going with a bad battery connection. Remove cables again, clean all terminals, contacts, and mounts thoroughly with sand paper and steel brushes. Reconnect contacts and terminals with electro contact grease (white lithium). Re-Charge battery if necessary. Try to start.
I'm going with a bad battery connection. Remove cables again, clean all terminals, contacts, and mounts thoroughly with sand paper and steel brushes. Reconnect contacts and terminals with electro contact grease (white lithium). Re-Charge battery if necessary. Try to start.
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Check the ground for the battery, I believe its on the block. It sounds like when hit with a load, the starter being the biggest one there is, its losing its ground. Resistance check the ground cable to ensure its good inside the insulation, wiggle the cable when doing the resistance check. A cable that size and that short of length should have almost no resistance or fluctuation.
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Nope--no clicking. It doesn't even get to the point where the starter engages before I lose power. Now--in the past when it DID start it didn't have any clicking at all, very strong and fast start. Thanks!
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Check the ground for the battery, I believe its on the block. It sounds like when hit with a load, the starter being the biggest one there is, its losing its ground. Resistance check the ground cable to ensure its good inside the insulation, wiggle the cable when doing the resistance check. A cable that size and that short of length should have almost no resistance or fluctuation.
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Yep--when I say no power I mean to everything. If the lights are on they will shut off. I am getting back into town tomorrow and it sounds like I am going to spend some time tracing / cleaning off some grounds. Thanks!
#18
(See your GM F-Body Service Manual Pages 8A-133-0 thru 8A-133-18)
Your VATS system impacts a number of different BCM related electrical systems; it sounds like you need to go thru the trouble trees.
Your VATS system impacts a number of different BCM related electrical systems; it sounds like you need to go thru the trouble trees.
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From what I read, you can bypass the VATS system by using a regular-cut key and measuring the resistance of the key w/ a chip in it. Then splice in a resistor in that same range. Does this makes sense? Thanks!
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