LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Need a lt1 guru

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Old Aug 13, 2014 | 09:11 PM
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Default Need a lt1 guru

I'm looking to do a 383 over the winter. Specifically a ATK 383 LT1. I want to get heads and a cam for it, because it would be pointless for me to put on my stock heads and cam, right? Would I be able to use that ATK motor, and perhaps the Lloyd Elliot LE1 heads/cam kit? Should most parts just swap over? Like my electric water pump, headers, intake mani and tb, opti-spark, oil pan, ect..? This is my first time going deep into a car build and NEED help. Please throw me some answers. It will be a weekend car and a drag car (when I can afford a new rear end.)
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Old Aug 14, 2014 | 11:23 PM
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Yes it would be pointless to put the stock heads and cam in a 383. Lloyds LE2 setups are nice. I like putting new valves in heads where I don't know the mileage. That's the main difference between the LE 1 and LE2 heads. In a 383 a cam somewhere along a 230/236 duration would be really fun on the street or at the track. You could go bigger since you'll have the cubes for a bigger cam but the bigger you go you will lose some street manners. Shouldnt be too bad though. FYI Lloyds old car went 6.90's in the 1/8 at 3800# with LE2 heads and a 23x cam. For me personally I would rather pick a little more head than an LE1 on a 383 I planned on racing.

Oh and yes everything should swap over just fine.

The absolute best advice anyone here could give you is to do a bunch of research before you buy anything. Figure out what your goals are and start there. Remember too that if you have several or even one weak link it could cause you great disappointment. If you don't have enough fuel, or a bad tune, or a motor not built right you will want to burn the car to the ground. There is a lot of good info just research and good luck.

Last edited by za355tx; Aug 14, 2014 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 06:53 AM
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If you're only after a little weekend warrior. A good quality set of LE2s or AI ported heads and cam goes a lot further on stock cubes or a 355 than just doing a 383 with stock or barely ported heads.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 09:16 PM
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Im looking for a 383 because my piston rings went at 51k miles. Im looking at all options, but I am on the cheap side of things, being a high school senior with a minumum wage job and trying to fund this hobby. The car is not a DD. Its a weekend warrior. I was considering a Jasper 350 which is rated at 350 horse. I really just need something on the cheap that will get me running. Ofcourse I would love for it to be a big cube monster, but I dont know if its in the budget. Can people give me any budget friendly (MAX $5,500) advice or answers? Thanks.
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Old Aug 15, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by WRSpence
Im looking for a 383 because my piston rings went at 51k miles. Im looking at all options, but I am on the cheap side of things, being a high school senior with a minumum wage job and trying to fund this hobby. The car is not a DD. Its a weekend warrior. I was considering a Jasper 350 which is rated at 350 horse. I really just need something on the cheap that will get me running. Ofcourse I would love for it to be a big cube monster, but I dont know if its in the budget. Can people give me any budget friendly (MAX $5,500) advice or answers? Thanks.

Looking at your budget I would recommend doing a 355. A good set of I beam rods will be plenty and the stock crank can handle a good amount of power. That with some forged pistons will be just fine. From there you should still have enough money to do a nice head and cam swap. Lloyd Elliott has good prices and his work is very good too so that should fit easily into your budget. What would be a good start is to find out what exactly you already have that you don't need to buy and then make a list of all the things you actually need. Is your car an auto or manual? What gears do you have? If you're an auto is the tq converter stock? If you'll give us some more info we will be able to help more.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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It's a M6. I don't know what rear gear, I would imagine it was stock factory spec. Has stepped long tubes, no cats, B&B tri-flow exhaust. Auburn carrier. Uses LT1edit for tunes. Intake, electric water pump. Everything else is factory. I would like to get a steeper rear gear, something along the lines of a 3:73 or maybe, a 4.10.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by WRSpence
It's a M6. I don't know what rear gear, I would imagine it was stock factory spec. .

Check your glove box for the RPO codes. it will tell you the code for the gears.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 01:36 PM
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M6 only cam with 3.42 IIRC. I think he was saying it hasn't been changed to his knowledge.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
M6 only cam with 3.42 IIRC. I think he was saying it hasn't been changed to his knowledge.
Is that the case with the 95 model year? My 93 Z has a 3:23 rear from the factory. (yes, mine is an M6)

Last edited by JOHNNYMO; Aug 16, 2014 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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93 M6 had different tranny ratios hence different rear gear ratio.
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
93 M6 had different tranny ratios hence different rear gear ratio.
AAAAh...thanks!!
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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I have a 94 Z. I did the 355 as this is my first attempt at a full build. With everything I have done to the car engine, trans, gears, tune, and suspension I am past $5,500. It puts out plenty of power although I am trying to work on a few issues at this time. With this being said I have decided to take it off the street and go full track. Added note, stock gear for my Z was a 2:73 I have changed it to a 3:73 and running a 3200 TC.
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