Lt1 Build !!!!!
08-25-2014, 02:34 PM
#1
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Lt1 Build !!!!! Hello all I been reading on here for a long time and appreciate all the knowledge I've learned. I just added about every bolt on I can think that the majority of the previous threads that worked on my car.. Tell me what you guys think. I added the following to my 93 trans am
Full MSD ignition with the MSD opti
K&N cai
Tranny cooler
52mm Holley tb.....I know I didn't need it was a gift from wife .
1le elbow
Shift kit
373 gears
Yank ss3600 stall converter
LPP headers and y pipe with borla cat back with no cat
Comp adjustable drag shocks set on 50/50
I wanna try to get 12s before going with a h/c/i . Also would a tune help me if so I'd like to do that also thanks again for all your help !!!
Full MSD ignition with the MSD opti
K&N cai
Tranny cooler
52mm Holley tb.....I know I didn't need it was a gift from wife .
1le elbow
Shift kit
373 gears
Yank ss3600 stall converter
LPP headers and y pipe with borla cat back with no cat
Comp adjustable drag shocks set on 50/50
I wanna try to get 12s before going with a h/c/i . Also would a tune help me if so I'd like to do that also thanks again for all your help !!!
Last edited by TransAm1993; 08-25-2014 at 03:46 PM.
08-25-2014, 03:15 PM
#2
Launching!
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Back when it was stock, I added Crower 1.6 SA Roller Rockers and PAC 1911 springs to my 97 WS.6 and it pulled much harder above 5000 and knocked 2 tenths off at the track.
Granted, that was at 155,000 mi and the car was experiencing serious valve float after 1000'
Granted, that was at 155,000 mi and the car was experiencing serious valve float after 1000'
08-26-2014, 03:13 PM
#4
Launching!
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No Problem. If your car has a lot of miles on it, valve springs will be some help. The roller rockers are an improvement but don't feel the need to buy the Crowers that I got (I stumbled on to a ridiculous deal).
At any RPM below 7,000 the difference you will see between materials (Aluminum, Stainless Steel, and Chromoly is negligible at best) go with what you can afford and feel comfortable with.
Oh, and yes. Get the car tuned.
At any RPM below 7,000 the difference you will see between materials (Aluminum, Stainless Steel, and Chromoly is negligible at best) go with what you can afford and feel comfortable with.
Oh, and yes. Get the car tuned.
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08-27-2014, 04:24 PM
#9
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You may look in to putting heated o2s on your car as well. When I put the long tubes on my car with no cats it jumps in and out of open/closed loop. You can get them on line at walmart/amazon for 27.33 each. They are delco afs 75
Last edited by rjmarazzi; 08-27-2014 at 04:33 PM.
08-27-2014, 07:12 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
08-27-2014, 08:06 PM
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Ok I put the 160 thermostat in. I'll look into getting the heated sensors. Thanks for all the help guys.. We will be going to the track here soon I'll let u guys know how she ran after I get the tune and a few other small things done.
08-27-2014, 08:42 PM
#12
Have you taken it to the track since the mods you posted?
With your gears, TC, and exhaust, the only thing that would keep you out of the 12's presently would be lack of traction. Even without a tune.
Work on the chassis/suspension before adding power via heads/cam. SFC's, stiff LCA bushings, IC adjustment, etc.
I was down to 12.3's with just bolt-on mods such as yours in a 3900 lb car before adding h/c.
If ET's are your measuring stick, get your 60's into the 1.6x's before going into the motor.
Yes, a tune will DEFINITELY help you.
With your gears, TC, and exhaust, the only thing that would keep you out of the 12's presently would be lack of traction. Even without a tune.
Work on the chassis/suspension before adding power via heads/cam. SFC's, stiff LCA bushings, IC adjustment, etc.
I was down to 12.3's with just bolt-on mods such as yours in a 3900 lb car before adding h/c.
If ET's are your measuring stick, get your 60's into the 1.6x's before going into the motor.
Yes, a tune will DEFINITELY help you.
08-28-2014, 04:18 AM
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No I haven't ran it at all yet. Were planning on going here soon. Trying to get a date when we can all go down together like before we got married and had kids lol. Thanks for the input I'll start looking into more suspension work!!!!!
08-28-2014, 02:41 PM
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So let me ask....... when watching the tree drop do you stall the converter up to where it almost breaks the tires loose and green light smash it or just idle watching the tree then smash it .....or is this a big controversial thing. I never dragged an automatic before..thanks !!!!!!
08-28-2014, 02:49 PM
#20
Foot brake launches usually work best leaving from idle. There are exceptions to this if you have a sluggish engine off idle, an over-abundance of traction, or just a lack of low rpm power/torque.
Loading the torque converter takes pressure off the passenger side tire before you launch, which is exactly the wrong thing.
Launching off idle gives you the best weight transfer and maximum load on both rear tires. It also typically gives you the best converter flash.
Nail the throttle and release the brake simultaneously when you SEE (not anticipate!) the last yellow.
If you're not running DR's or slicks, then roll into the throttle instead of nailing it to the floor.
Loading the torque converter takes pressure off the passenger side tire before you launch, which is exactly the wrong thing.
Launching off idle gives you the best weight transfer and maximum load on both rear tires. It also typically gives you the best converter flash.
Nail the throttle and release the brake simultaneously when you SEE (not anticipate!) the last yellow.
If you're not running DR's or slicks, then roll into the throttle instead of nailing it to the floor.