LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

u-joints

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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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Default u-joints

I just picked up a used aluminum for my 97 Z, well it was delivered today and here's the problem. its not a factory drive shaft its stamped Spicer F2899 on each end of the shaft, the u-joint on the rear side has 2 caps that say Spicer621P with outside clips and 2 caps that just say Spicer with inside clips. on the tranny side all 4 caps say Spicer 621P with outside clips on all 4 caps. anyone one know whats the deal with this drive shaft id it factory? what u joint do I get to replace them? the guy I bought it from doesn't know much about it he just knows he pulled it from a 4th gen Camaro and bolted it right up in his 3rd gen as is.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 07:08 AM
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Spicer is an OEM supplier so I wouldn't dismiss parts as not original based on that.
Be aware once you replace the factory joints you won't ev r get similar life from another set.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 09:52 AM
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i have never seen a spicer in a 4th gen any ive seen say 3 rivers or something like that. after countless hours of research it appears its a drive shaft from a 1le 3rd gen. i will know for sure after work when i try and put the 3rd gen u joints in. i know no replacement joint is going to last as long as the oem ones but i cant see not changing them not knowing the full history on them.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
......Be aware once you replace the factory joints you won't ev r get similar life from another set.
Elaborate more on this please.
Maybe true, but in my case with a couple of very high mileage vehicles, I've gotten just as good service life from parts store U-joints as with the factory-installed ones. I believe the last one I bought a couple of years ago was in Dana packaging. I don't remember seeing an "off" brand label with any I've purchased.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mab6680
..... i cant see not changing them not knowing the full history on them.
I'd replace them only if you can detect ANY play or roughness in them with the shaft removed/unloaded.
If they're tight and smooth, leave them alone.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Not sure if that ds is the same as the other 4th gens but if they are you have to heat the u-joints 1st. This makes the nylon pins that secure the caps melt out. Then you can PRESS them out. Do not try to beat them out with a hammer. I ruined a ds years ago that way.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Far as u-joint life after replacement just my experience with one of my trucks. One of the old Impala forum members worked at the Three Rivers driveshaft plant, his explain action was poor alignment of home installed joints compared to the factory assembled unit.

Never had to change u-joints on my b-bodies they seem to last forever one. I retired at 227k and another at 299k.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
..... his explanation was poor alignment of home installed joints compared to the factory assembled unit.
........
ok, I get where you're coming from.....certainly true that if they're banged in there ****-eyed, they're not gonna last.
My "home-installed" ones were at least put in with a press with everything straight.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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I believe that caprice is right but does it really matter anyway? If you replace them at 200k and then have to replace again at 300k that's still 100k's worth of mileage; but lets assume that the reason they are going out is play at the tailshaft and/or out of balance issues that the stock joint didn't see until maybe 100-150k? I don't think the replacements are going to fix problems...
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Huntr1117
Not sure if that ds is the same as the other 4th gens but if they are you have to heat the u-joints 1st. This makes the nylon pins that secure the caps melt out. Then you can PRESS them out. Do not try to beat them out with a hammer. I ruined a ds years ago that way.
it def not from a 4th gen 99.9% sure its from a LE1 3rd gen and i have heated them nylon things out before i actually ruined the first drive shaft i did them on from trying to beat them out...lol...live and learn
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtienut
I'd replace them only if you can detect ANY play or roughness in them with the shaft removed/unloaded.
If they're tight and smooth, leave them alone.
they feel fine i just dont know anything about them, age, mileage, i do know that the guy i bought it from ran the car at the strip.
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