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Ok so I got the optima red top all mounted in the trunk. I have it grounded to the body of the car. I went to phoenix welding supply and got 13 ft of 1 aught welding cable and now I'm not sure what it is supposed to connect to after the positive on the battery. I'm not good with reading wiring diagrams so I'm wondering for those that mounted the battery in the trunk, how did you wire it up? And did you run the cable inside or outside the car? And pics of the set up would be great
Ok so I got the optima red top all mounted in the trunk. I have it grounded to the body of the car. I went to phoenix welding supply and got 13 ft of 1 aught welding cable and now I'm not sure what it is supposed to connect to after the positive on the battery. I'm not good with reading wiring diagrams so I'm wondering for those that mounted the battery in the trunk, how did you wire it up? And did you run the cable inside or outside the car? And pics of the set up would be great
In accordance with competition sanctioning body rules, the electrical feed from the positive terminal is required to connect to a "master cutoff" that is accessible from outside the car body. From the "master cutoff," the cable will need to extend to a convenient point near the front of the car that will serve to supply power to all switches, accessories, and other electrical amenities according to your specific needs. Exactly how you do that is a matter of personal choice but on cars intended primarily for on-track competition, I prefer to fabricate a distribution panel that incorporates power distribution strips, relays, circuit breakers, and related components in one conveniently accessible location, usually on the floor, in front of the passenger seat location. For dual-purpose cars, the distribution panel may be concealed in a protected area such as inside or below the glove compartment or the components can be isolated from one another according to your preferences. Consolidating them aids in trouble-shooting and saves time. The exact layout and arrangement of the components varies according to the intended use of the car and the location of items such as switch panels and accessories.
If my garage is ever above the like 15 degrees it is now, I'll be getting back to putting my car back together. Included is running battery cables from the rear. I'll be using the right rear seat belt mount for the battery negative.
At least in the Odyssey battery's case, it is a sealed and non-spill design. It can be mounted in any orientation. It does not need a sealed box vented to the outside.
"Valve Regulated Lead Acid (CRLA) batteries like the Odyssey depend on the internal recombination of the gases for proper operation. ...It is not uncommon to see these batteries in aircraft, hospital operating rooms and computer rooms."
I believe the Optima is the same as they state: "Completely spillproof, mountable in virtually any position"
There is venting in these cars in the rear compartment and at least for these batteries, I see no need for a sealed box.
I think Mr. am_muscl is in pretty decent shape here with his installation.
Myself for sure and I'm pretty sure the OP are not building track race cars that need to adhere to NHRA rules. Many people move their batteries to the rear without a sealed box or external kill switch. The current Camaro has a lead-acid battery in the rear without a sealed box which is certainly not sealed from the passenger compartment.
Cars that have their battery in the interior have a vent hose that leads outside of the car.
Your ground should be to the unibody rail where your wrench is resting. Your engine ground should go to this rail as well and be the same size as your power lead.
At least in the Odyssey battery's case, it is a sealed and non-spill design. It can be mounted in any orientation. It does not need a sealed box vented to the outside.
"Valve Regulated Lead Acid (CRLA) batteries like the Odyssey depend on the internal recombination of the gases for proper operation. ...It is not uncommon to see these batteries in aircraft, hospital operating rooms and computer rooms."
I believe the Optima is the same as they state: "Completely spillproof, mountable in virtually any position"
There is venting in these cars in the rear compartment and at least for these batteries, I see no need for a sealed box.
I think Mr. am_muscl is in pretty decent shape here with his installation.
Optima could make their batteries out of unicorn blood sealed in titanium and waterproof to 2miles but as long as its a battery and not behind a firewall or sealed trunk... NHRA says it needs a sealed/vented box.
Would suck to get booted from track of sloppy install of battery relo.
I'll be relocating my battery soon, even with my optima it will still be sealed and vented with an external kill switch since I plan on taking her to the track often.
So much easier, lighter, and cheaper to buy a baby battery and keep in stock location.
Very true. However, many people do this to move 40+ pounds to the rear of the vehicle in an otherwise regular street car with mods but it's not necessarily a track car that will be REQUIRED to have a sealed box and cut off switch. Street guys have been doing this forever. An otherwise regular street car shouldn't have a smaller lightweight lower capacity battery. The particular one I chose is pretty pricey and I doubt many would use it.
Originally Posted by IDriveChevy
I'll be relocating my battery soon, even with my optima it will still be sealed and vented with an external kill switch since I plan on taking her to the track often.
Can someone please show me how they mounted their cutoff switch? I got the Moroso battery disconnect switch and I'm scratching my head on how it should be mounted
Can someone please show me how they mounted their cutoff switch? I got the Moroso battery disconnect switch and I'm scratching my head on how it should be mounted
It needs to cut off the alternator and battery positive from the car.
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Trunk mounted battery 
