Engine DONE, until I try starting it!
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From: Bremerton, WA
Engine DONE, until I try starting it! After 8 years of working on everything else I was finally able to finish the engine and mostly finish the engine bay (I say mostly because nothing is ever done).
You are looking at a 385ci LT4
-Lingenfelter ported heads and intake
-24x Conversion
-Custom mounted and custom intercooled F1A
-LPP long tubes
-Custom Air Intake Box using Dodge Viper Air Cleaners
-Custom Strut Tower Brace
Custom Intake Box that I designed and made.
Now I just hope the combination works!
And yes the hood barely closes...
You are looking at a 385ci LT4
-Lingenfelter ported heads and intake
-24x Conversion
-Custom mounted and custom intercooled F1A
-LPP long tubes
-Custom Air Intake Box using Dodge Viper Air Cleaners
-Custom Strut Tower Brace
Custom Intake Box that I designed and made.
Now I just hope the combination works!
And yes the hood barely closes...
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Very nice work. The details really make this standout from the crowd. Hopefully the airbox works as good as it looks to feed the F1A. What kind of power are you expecting out of it? Intake and strut tower generally easy to remove to work on the engine as needed?
I would recommend doing the fuel line relocation and reroute the wires on the passenger side fender. Would clean it up even more than it already is.
I would recommend doing the fuel line relocation and reroute the wires on the passenger side fender. Would clean it up even more than it already is.
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I'm hoping for about 700FWHP, the entire car is built for around 650RWHP (mainly Fuel System and Tranny). From the info others have provided the stock radiator should be sufficient for that HP level. I did the calcs on the intake filter area and the flow area in the smallest region of the box and it "should" support my HP.
The strut tower brace is easy to get off but you have to lift the front of the car to access 2 of the bolts on each side that hold the control arm/coilover mount in place. And the intake box just uses the 2 upper TB bolts in the front and the 2 fuel rail bolts in open slotted mounts in the rear (don't have to take the bolt out).
I will probably do more cleaning of the tower areas later...
The strut tower brace is easy to get off but you have to lift the front of the car to access 2 of the bolts on each side that hold the control arm/coilover mount in place. And the intake box just uses the 2 upper TB bolts in the front and the 2 fuel rail bolts in open slotted mounts in the rear (don't have to take the bolt out).
I will probably do more cleaning of the tower areas later...
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From: Bremerton, WA
Love the attention to detail and all the custom work, definitely a show stopper.
I agree a fuel line relocate and passenger wheel well wire tuck would add to an already awesome engine bay.
I agree a fuel line relocate and passenger wheel well wire tuck would add to an already awesome engine bay.
Ahh i knew they looked familiar! I saw those a long time ago and was wondering how good they would be. How do they work for you? Worth the investment as far as night time visibility goes?
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From: Bremerton, WA
Update to Engine Bay, I have finished the covers (both sides and front close out).
I have to repaint them since there was some kind of contamination after cleaning them. Since they have to be repainted I am thinking of going with a flat clear coat over the same charcoal color. The other color option is Lime Green, same as the top color on the car (but if I went with that should I stick with gloss clear or go with flat clear coat?).
Any thoughts on the color of the 3 panels?
I have to repaint them since there was some kind of contamination after cleaning them. Since they have to be repainted I am thinking of going with a flat clear coat over the same charcoal color. The other color option is Lime Green, same as the top color on the car (but if I went with that should I stick with gloss clear or go with flat clear coat?).
Any thoughts on the color of the 3 panels?
Although, the color make my eyes burn! 