LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Have an urgent injector question..

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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:35 PM
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Default Have an urgent injector question..

So I just did a CC503 recently and had used a set of 24lb LT1 injectors since the stockers are 22lb on my car. They were working fine for awhile until yesterday. The car's been sitting for 3 weeks and yesterday I started it and drove it and it was a complete dog. Felt like it was running on only 6 cylinders and making a lean popping sound when I let off the gas. I assume an injector or two is stuck and causing this.(Just a guess) These injectors were sitting for a few years before I put them in so i'm sure that didn't help...

Anyway... I want to swap in a set of stock LS1 injectors mostly for testing purposes and see if runs better. They are from my buddies '99 Formula and he just pulled them last week from his running car with only 60K on them so I know they're good. I understand these should basically be 24lb injectors on LT1 fuel pressure so I should be fine correct? Any reason I can't do this?
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 93M6Formula
So I just did a CC503 recently and had used a set of 24lb LT1 injectors since the stockers are 22lb on my car. They were working fine for awhile until yesterday. The car's been sitting for 3 weeks and yesterday I started it and drove it and it was a complete dog. Felt like it was running on only 6 cylinders and making a lean popping sound when I let off the gas. I assume an injector or two is stuck and causing this.(Just a guess) These injectors were sitting for a few years before I put them in so i'm sure that didn't help...

Anyway... I want to swap in a set of stock LS1 injectors mostly for testing purposes and see if runs better. They are from my buddies '99 Formula and he just pulled them last week from his running car with only 60K on them so I know they're good. I understand these should basically be 24lb injectors on LT1 fuel pressure so I should be fine correct? Any reason I can't do this?
I thought these are interchangeable?

For testing, why don't you just pull the fuel rail and see if they are all spraying?
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
I thought these are interchangeable?

For testing, why don't you just pull the fuel rail and see if they are all spraying?
I'm pretty sure they are minus a little modification to the holding clip. I guess I was just wondering if they are okay with my current tune. It's tuned for 24s which is basically what LS1 injectors are, at 43.5PSI as far as I know.

I thought about pulling the rail to test but that just sounds like a real mess. I don't want fuel spraying all over the motor.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 93M6Formula
I'm pretty sure they are minus a little modification to the holding clip. I guess I was just wondering if they are okay with my current tune. It's tuned for 24s which is basically what LS1 injectors are, at 43.5PSI as far as I know.

I thought about pulling the rail to test but that just sounds like a real mess. I don't want fuel spraying all over the motor.
You need to make sure all the injectors have the same voltage offset. If they are different don't use them. AC Delco and Bosch have different settings. And not all of the same brand have the same offset.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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For what you are doing, they will be fine.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 04:29 PM
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Alright i'll give it a shot.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:06 PM
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I got another question...

If I were to take an infrared thermometer to each header primary, would the hottest one point to a lean condition on that cylinder? Or is that not right.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 93M6Formula
I got another question...

If I were to take an infrared thermometer to each header primary, would the hottest one point to a lean condition on that cylinder? Or is that not right.
That is usually the case.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:31 PM
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Might want to make sure none of your plug wires are not arcing on your headers. My car was running fine and then one time I took it out and it was running kind of like you described. After troubleshooting a whole bunch of things I finally traced it back to a plug wire touching the manifold. I have no idea how that happened because back then the car was basically stock and still had manifolds.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Casey96SS
Might want to make sure none of your plug wires are not arcing on your headers. My car was running fine and then one time I took it out and it was running kind of like you described. After troubleshooting a whole bunch of things I finally traced it back to a plug wire touching the manifold. I have no idea how that happened because back then the car was basically stock and still had manifolds.
That's what I initially thought as well but everything checks out. I just put new plugs and wires in with heat shields.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
That is usually the case.
Thought so, thanks.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Casey96SS
Might want to make sure none of your plug wires are not arcing on your headers. My car was running fine and then one time I took it out and it was running kind of like you described. After troubleshooting a whole bunch of things I finally traced it back to a plug wire touching the manifold. I have no idea how that happened because back then the car was basically stock and still had manifolds.
Okay I lied.... I got a better look at my plug wires last night because the injectors didn't fix my problem. When I put the new plug wires on after my cam swap, I had wrapped them in a heat tape and fiberglass sleave. Well when I looked at them last night in the dark, I noticed like 6 spots where you can see little blue sparks on the insulation sleave, which is weird to me since the wires aren't burnt.

Now I know that's not good for one thing, but I just want to confirm with you guys. I assume that the blue sparks is energy escaping the wires and not giving full power to the plugs which is causing my loss in power with any amount of throttle? It idles smooth and isn't missfiring but it's has no power whatsoever. Also it now smells pig rich and I can't even stand near the car without getting watery eyes.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 09:10 AM
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I'm guessing your wires are toast if there is any sparking going on. It sucks spending more money, but maybe get the arcing issue solved and see if it is still running bad.

I put these sleeves on my wires and they are 100% great.

Amazon.com: DEI 010542 Brown Titanium Protect-A-Boot Spark Plug Boot Protector: Automotive Amazon.com: DEI 010542 Brown Titanium Protect-A-Boot Spark Plug Boot Protector: Automotive
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Casey96SS
I'm guessing your wires are toast if there is any sparking going on. It sucks spending more money, but maybe get the arcing issue solved and see if it is still running bad.

I put these sleeves on my wires and they are 100% great.

Amazon.com: DEI 010542 Brown Titanium Protect-A-Boot Spark Plug Boot Protector: Automotive
That's what I wanted to buy initially but the price at my local parts store was insane! That's a better price in that link you posted. I think i'll do that this time. I cheaped out on the plug wires this time around as well. I just did some Autolites but that bit me in the *** I guess... I normally don't like spending money twice but oh well.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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I just ran a new set of AC Delco wires in the stock locations. I think there is a lot less chance of the wires getting burnt that way. The only thing you really have to protect is the boots near the headers if you have everything secured good.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 06:35 PM
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Do the OTVC conversion and you'll never worry about burnt plug wires due to headers again!
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