Ive logged my car a couple times and looked over it to try and attempt to find a vacuum leak but I cant find anything and sense the motor is just freshly rebuilt im stumped, then I read the "tuning symptoms sticky"
"Symptom- Exhaust burning eyes. Injector data incorrect or VE/MAF table is off. Investigate- car running lean."
My car is spitting out some intense exhaust fumes, my buddy and me found out one night while the garage door was only partially opened, attempting to not wake the neighbors
Heres a log that you should be able to see what im talking about. I appreciate any help.

https://www.mediafire.com/?yvhfj328xfk86rr

 

bump...log just needs to be changed to .uni

 

Can't open the attachment.

 

fixed attachment

 

I'm not seeing you overly lean according to your data log, but you do have a BLM split below 2500rpms. It's probably related to your TPS being cracked open at idle (get that fixed, it'll help with the split). Beyond that, with your BLM split, check for exhaust leaks at, before, or near the O2's and make sure all your injectors are actually spraying fuel.

As for the lean/rich condition (you have both), you'll need to fine tune the tune some more. But, it's all within the computers adjustable range so it's not necessary.

Can you list your mods? 60kPa at 975rpm seems like you have a fairly aggressive cam no? This helps us know what we are seeing vs what we should be.

Unless this log isn't indicative of an actual lean condition where the car is running leaner than this log indicates?

 

Sorry this is my first build along with my first time doing any in depth tuning adjustments. The lean condition I was thinking of was at that lower rpm range but I adjusted the throttle body because I had idle issues because I have a 231/239/.571/.587/110 cam and have a Holley 58mm TB but ive been reading up on the drill mod and seems to be the right way to correct it. Also i'm going to run nitrous so that being said should I wait for to have my car dyno tuned? Right now the drive ability isn't great as you can imagine because of the sloppy AFR so It bothers me not having it running right but I wanna drive it so bad
As for my engine mods,
blocks been bored .030 over so its a 355
Heads are Lloyd LE2 w/ ported intake + 58mm TB
cam 231/239/.571/.587/110
LPP headers + Y-pipe to magna flow catback
Bosch Green #42's
Forged weisco pistons with scat forged rods running on stock crank
compression should be very close to if it isnt 11.8
SLP CAI

 

You have almost the exact build I do. Lol. What tires and gears are you running? What CAI? And what is your cams advance?

How have you been adjusting the AFR? Are you using the MAF calibrations or VE tables? What program are you using to tune it, Tunercats or Tuner Pro RT?

 

Haha ya I saw that. Great minds think alike. I'm running 4.10's with 305/35/19 MT Street Radial II. Slp CAI. 4 cam advance. I'm using maf right now and tunercat pro. Pcmforless did my intial tune and now im trying to fine tune it through what ive read from solomons website

 

I'll send you my you my tune, adjusted, tomorrow (I'm helping my brother move) for your build. It's SD. Actually, I need to know your CAI (I see it's SLP but I don't have calibrations for that) set up for your MAF before I can send you anything unless you run SD. Or you can just run SD until you can calibrate your MAF. But, I've been drinking. So, I'll adjust my tune to your build as soon as I'm sober and have time.

 

Haha thanks man I really appreciate it. Ya I have no problem running SD it'll be easier for now.

 

Try this. You'll need to use TunerCat to change the speedometer calibrations for your gears and tires. I don't have TunerCats on this computer to do it. I made some small adjustments for your injectors and I pulled some timing to help prevent knock. You can data log and adjust it as needed of course. And Knock retard is activated on this tune.

Let me know how it does. If this attachment doesn't open for you, PM your e-mail address and I'll e-mail it to you.

 

Thanks, I'll try it out tonight when I'm off work and let you know. I'll be surprised if there's any major changes I'll have to make considering even are cams are close in grind. What injectors are you running?

 

I'm running 36# Bosch injectors I got off Ebay. They have a different voltage Offset than yours do. There's adjustments I've made in this tune I'm not sure if you've delt with before, like O2 delay and such. It should help with drivability.

The VE tables will not be exactly the same. I have more advance than you do in the Cam. And I'm on a stock TB and intake (unported). You'll have more flow as the RPM's increase, but likely more reverb at lower RPMs. So you'll need to adjust the VE table slightly here and there. Use your data logs. Since it's in SD mode you won't have the MAF fighting your VE table adjustments (this is debatable, the PCM should ignore the VE tables in MAF mode but I've noticed differences in the VE tables effect drivability in MAF mode personally). Once the VE tables are dialed in you can calibrate the MAF during your Dyno tune.

I haven't been able to go over 100% on the VE tables, but in the area's of more than 100% VE it's all in PE mode anyway. So the extra fueling needed there was tuned in via the PE mode tables. There's a couple other ways to do this too (like increasing your displacement and reducing the VE tables to make the computer think the engine is bigger). You should be over 100% VE with your build at peak TQ and HP. IIRC, I'm close to 105-109% VE.

To play it safe, you can go to the PE tables and increase the fueling there by another 5% or so then lean it back down once it goes on the dyno. If you have a wideband, then you can just log it and adjust as needed. You really don't need a Dyno tune if you have a track and a wideband, but you won't know how much power you're putting down either and it takes longer.

Don't forget I pulled timing (mostly in the cruising RPM range), so you can add it back in until you get knock retard then pull it back out as needed.

 

About to load the tune and go for a drive. ill let you know shortly.

 

How'd it go?

 

You can data log and adjust it as needed of course.

 

Throttling was much better then my initial tune, only issue I had was with idling because I was told by Keith at pcmforless to drill a small hole in the blade and with that tune I could idle but with the SD it was all over the place so, I swapped in a replacement blade I have with no hole in it and obviously was not able to hold. I think with some adjustments I can make that tune work tho. I'll post my data log for you when I get it from laptop.

 

Did you do the drill mod for the IAC yet? With your intake ported, you'll have more reverb than I do, plus your cam has later valve timing than mine does which adds more reverb. It'll help you a lot to get idle air to go through the IAC valve and the IAC passages in the intake. IIRC, done aftermarket TB have the IAC port bit too small and it needs to be enlarged.

Also, if you don't already have one, get an IR temp gun. You'll need it to adjust individual injector trims at idle and low rpm. It'll help a lot.