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The wheels are 18x9.5 C5 wagon wheels, tires are Goodyear Eagle F1s, the sidewalls are not vertical but they are not bulging, they feel good but I haven't really pushed them yet and never had 275s or 285s on these wheels to compare it to, it might get squishy as I push the limits but I have alot to sort out until then.
oh ok, for some reason i thought the wagon wheels were 8.5in wide, so that makes more sense with a 295 tire. glad you got the issue fixed, funny how even on 7 cylinders, you still pull on a 5.0, time to show him what 8 cylinders looks like!
Well that was the problem, I didn't pull on him, I got a jump on him and he reeled me in too quick, normally when I race 5.0s were dead even, so he shouldn't have reeled me in. They trap about 113 stock, I trapped (before all this crap) 111, and I'd normally pull in front slightly then they start to catch me after the 1/8th and trap a tiny bit higher. I should be trapping 112-113 if I can get this arcing to stop. Its still doing it on #6 sometimes, I think those 9 year old wires are just shot. Very annoying, its not quite 7 cylinders, more like 7.5, as I run its like 8! Sweet! Nope 7 **** you. 8! Just kidding 7.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 05-29-2015 at 11:39 AM.
15 south through haymarket, black 5.0 with black wheels and at least an exhaust, military looking guy.
Can someone explain this plug? Has to be at least 3-6 years old, gapped 0.035 when pulled, I honestly cannot remember if I changed them when I did the rockers or when I did the wires 6 years ago. This is from problematic #6, replaced with another NGK TR55 at 0.045 and a new Taylor 8.2 50 ohm per foot 1.5 foot wire, old wire was 9 year old Taylor 500 ohm per foot, ohmed out at 750, so on par. Started the car up with the new plug and wire and according to the temp gun that primary built up heat now, watched the evens until they hit 400 and shut it down, too late to be playing. Why is it brand new looking in that 1 spot? Gap too small?
*edit* these have to be 3-4 years old, I remember changing plugs without the HVAC and I pulled that in 2010-2011 winter I think. Probably have 50 passes and 500 miles on them. Car sat from November 2011 to October 2012 during the 9" swap.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 05-29-2015 at 08:41 PM.
Whatever liquid substance is in your coolant system. Put a different plug in, drive around for a day or two and see what happens. Or leave the plug out, pressurize the system with a tester and see if anything comes out the plug hole. Just don't pressurize over the rad. caps limit.
I changed all the plugs, new NGK TR55s gapped at 0.045, felt better today, at least on all 8 cylinders. I think a passenger primary is possibly touching the k member sometimes, its really close, possibly pulling timing on false knock. Cant figure it out but its still not right. Might try to take it to the track this weekend and get real numbers behind it to see how far off it is.
Another wrench thrown in now that Im thinking could be causing some of the problems is the MSD Opti timing adjuster screw. A few years ago when I was doing the electric waterpump, for some stupid idea I decided to turn this screw for no reason other than I was staring at it, then my hand slipped and I lost count of how many turns it needed to go back to stock. I went online and found multiple responses from MSD techs who said stock was either 1.5, 2 or 2.5 turns out from bottomed out (clockwise). I dont remember where I put it, but this was 1 more thing I did at the same time as all of this, and this could be why it never ran over 109 anymore after, why my plugs looked weird, and why it still seems to idle rougher than it used to.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 06-01-2015 at 11:14 AM.
Still had a little arcing yesterday on the drive to work, and pulled my coil wire at work and saw a dark spot on it near the boot that connects to the opti where it had been arcing to the ground strap had now created a path to arc to the waterpump. I wrapped the coil wire with electrical tape over the dark spot and drive home and it felt great. New wires get here from summit today.
Next on the list is a new rod end for the torque arm where it attaches to the plate on the rear end ($10) to eliminate that play, then convert the front poly bushing on the torque arm to a rod ended link ($50), then some Founders rear control arms to get rid of the binding I'm getting with my solid poly ended Spohns.
Anyone have experience with Founders 3 piece roto end control arms? They look like they are more forgiving than rod ended ones, but still have an amount of torque needed to rotate them according to founders, but 40ft lb is less than the 200 they tested on poly ones. Other option is poly 1 end and roto on the other, or back to full rod ends on both sides, haven't decided between the 3 yet.
Then I need to decide if I want to pull everything off the front and change the timing cover seal to stop marking my territory with an oil slick everywhere I park, and change out this scorched clutch now, or wait to do it all on the new motor.
Its amazing what new plugs and wires will do for a car. Feels a million times better. Also tightened up the loose Y pipe and got rid of one bang. Gotta figure out why it sounds like my body is twisting when I go around turns though, something is binding, or its time for SFCs with this stiff *** suspension.
Had a cooling fan fail, was making a horrible sound, pulled the relay and it stopped. Now Im down to 1 fan, I played with it by hand and its not touching anything and doesnt feel like its binding or loose, but on 1 fan so far its been fine.
Got 20mpg last tank, my self control is lacking. That loud petal feels way too good...
Its amazing what new plugs and wires will do for a car. Feels a million times better. Also tightened up the loose Y pipe and got rid of one bang. Gotta figure out why it sounds like my body is twisting when I go around turns though, something is binding, or its time for SFCs with this stiff *** suspension.
Had a cooling fan fail, was making a horrible sound, pulled the relay and it stopped. Now Im down to 1 fan, I played with it by hand and its not touching anything and doesnt feel like its binding or loose, but on 1 fan so far its been fine.
Got 20mpg last tank, my self control is lacking. That loud petal feels way too good...
Subframe connectors make a HUGE difference if you have modded suspension, and t-tops....before those were welded into my car it had noticeable squeaks/rattles and just felt "loose" going over train tracks/speed bumps like an old flexy 3rd gen IROC convertible I recall. This was intensified after many years of being lowered. After the subframe connectors were installed it was night and day difference in body structure/stiffness, like comparing a new Mercedes to a ragged out 1990 IROC z28 convertible!
Its a hardtop, so I thought I would be ok for a while until I do a cage, but it really sounds like a "POP", like sheetmetal bending, whenever it articulates too much. I was feeling around for it yesterday on the jack, trying to locate it, and its somewhere near the front, maybe the firewall or something, maybe my AC delete panel is loose.
Even when its on a jack fully articulated to the point 1 rear tire is not on the ground I can still open and close the doors fine, so I thought I was fine, but looks like weld in SFCs are in the future.
Got home at 6, at 7:30 went to try to plug in the ABS sensor into the rear end and the rear was very warm, much warmer than I thought it would be after an hour and a half.
My exhaust points at it, but it is about where the rear seat is (18" from the passenger seat back bolts to the floor exactly) no turndown, a good 2-3 feet away. Drive home is 30 miles, varying 30-60mph speeds. I've had a vibration between 60 and 70 I was attributing to the stock driveshaft, can't hear a howl really like the last one that had chipped teeth, but thinking I may have pushed this one a little to hard. Fluid is fresh (2 years and 800 miles), teeth looked great when I put it in. Gonna hit it with a temp gun tomorrow right when I stop and see just how hot. I hope a turndown will fix it, and the rear isn't jacked.
146 degrees on the diff cover, 68 degrees outside, is that cause for concern? Axle tube closest to where the exhaust points was 121, other side was 115.
05-29-2015, 11:12 AM
