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Rented the $127 one from advance, and it didn't have 7/16-14 bolts for it, bought 7/16-14 bolts, wouldn't fit through the holes. Bought the puller off the shelf for $17 with a lifetime warranty, bent the non grade 8 bolt I put in the hub to pull against, then put in a spare grade 8 bolt and stripped the puller with a breaker bar. Repositioned it on good threads, hit it with an impact, stripped again.
What puller do you guys have luck with? Do you heat up the hub first?
i got mine off with a parts store puller set, had to get 2 grade 8's and cut one down to get the thing all the way off, was still a bear and broke a ratchet in the process, but after replacing said ratchet, the hub came off with just that cheap O'reilly set
The bolt I put into the crank hub was small enough to bottom out on the crank, that is the one that bent, it wasnt tight enough of a fit I guess. Then I used a grade 8 that was a tighter fit and stripped all the threads on the puller, twice.
I use a Creaftsman puller http://m.summitracing.com/parts/shc-...obileSwitchYes
I push against a peice of 7/16-20 threaded rod with a nut loctited on the end. I ground the threads off the bottom 1/2 inch of it so it can bottom in the crankshaft bore to avoid loading the crank threads. Had the threaded rod left over from when I made the $12 balancer install tool.https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...tall-tool.html
Grease the puller screw threads.
Last edited by guppymech; Jul 7, 2015 at 11:05 AM.
I use the parts store puller, but only a couple parts of it. I have some extra valve cover bolts that I use for the pulley holes, with nuts and washers on them. I do NOT thread a bolt into the crank hub. First I start with a 1/4" socket extension to push against to start it off, then a longer grade 8 bolt (smaller than crank snout threads) once it's broken free.
If you bottom out a bolt into the crank snout there will be no issue with the crank threads. It's actually better than using an extension which is a smaller diameter and is smashing up against the threads when breaking it loose.
First was Advance Auto lifetime warranty hub puller, stripped the puller screw twice.
Second was advance auto 3 jaw puller. Had a grade 8 bolt in the hub, and it managed to crush the puller tip into the puller screw.
Tried another but removed the tip, got the pulley off, but mushroomed the tip of the puller trying to get the hub off.
Good news is I think it was the opti seal the whole time. The lip is bent down and there's oil below it, looks like it dripped from the opti to the crank hub then got whipped everywhere.
I think I am going to try 1 more puller, and if I break that one I'm going to just do the opti and WP seals and put it back together until I put in the new motor.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; Jul 15, 2015 at 05:55 AM.
If your doing the puller right and the hub is really that stuck, try the puller again and once you have it under tension, give the collar of the hub a few smacks with a ball pein (from the side). It may shock it enough to break it free. I use an old head bolt with the threads ground off to push against with my puller.
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Crank hub puller 
