Installing crankshaft seal
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
You should consider some factory service manuals. They pop up on eBay fairly regularly and are a great resource for anyone that does a lot their own automotive work.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
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From: Nebraska
When I have to pull a seal like that, I screw in a set of sheet metal screws and then pull on those. Or they make a seal puller but there's not a lot of room to swing it in there. Or just use a flat screw driver and a hammer to deform it until it comes out. Then just find a large socket or something the same size as the seal to drive it in.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
Which one, rear main or front?
Rear main will require removal of the transmission, clutch/torque converter, flywheel. Then you can pry it out on the outside with a flat blade screwdriver. There are places in the seal housing to put the screwdriver. You just need to be careful not to catch the crank with the screwdriver or you will have a leak problem if you scratch it.
For installation, I use a 4 in PVC pipe adapter. Lube the inner seal with a little oil, the put the seal on evenly all the way around by hand, then use the PVC pipe and hammer to tap evenly all the way around the seal until seated. It must go in evenly.
It may not hurt to buy a couple in case you screw one up(if this is your first seal install).
For the front crank seal, you will need to remove the timing cover. Then use the seal removal tool SS RRR posted. It will be tough coming out as I doubled over one of those tools replacing my timing cover seals a few years ago.
Get to Youtube and watch some people install one piece rear crankshaft seals and front cover seals.
If you need a digital copy of the factory service manuals, GaryDoug(I think this is from him...) has you covered.
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
Rear main will require removal of the transmission, clutch/torque converter, flywheel. Then you can pry it out on the outside with a flat blade screwdriver. There are places in the seal housing to put the screwdriver. You just need to be careful not to catch the crank with the screwdriver or you will have a leak problem if you scratch it.
For installation, I use a 4 in PVC pipe adapter. Lube the inner seal with a little oil, the put the seal on evenly all the way around by hand, then use the PVC pipe and hammer to tap evenly all the way around the seal until seated. It must go in evenly.
It may not hurt to buy a couple in case you screw one up(if this is your first seal install).
For the front crank seal, you will need to remove the timing cover. Then use the seal removal tool SS RRR posted. It will be tough coming out as I doubled over one of those tools replacing my timing cover seals a few years ago.
Get to Youtube and watch some people install one piece rear crankshaft seals and front cover seals.
If you need a digital copy of the factory service manuals, GaryDoug(I think this is from him...) has you covered.
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
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When I had to do mine the first time all I did was remove the hub and gently pry the seal off with a screwdriver. It seemed like the OEM stock style is made of a softer material that makes it super easy to install and remove unlike the metal style that comes in a felpro kit. That was my experience.
I don't see why you have to remove the timing cover for that like posted above.
I don't see why you have to remove the timing cover for that like posted above.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
There may be other ways to do it, but I think removing the timing cover is the safest.
You can also use a punch to put a small hole(or drill the hole) in the seal edge. Next use a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end to turn into the hole you just put in the seal. Then slide hammer it out. We used to do that to remove them from gear boxes. However it does leave a small amount of metal shavings if you drill it.
I, myself, would not do anything to risk scratching the crank.
You can also use a punch to put a small hole(or drill the hole) in the seal edge. Next use a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end to turn into the hole you just put in the seal. Then slide hammer it out. We used to do that to remove them from gear boxes. However it does leave a small amount of metal shavings if you drill it.
I, myself, would not do anything to risk scratching the crank.
Last edited by ACE1252; Aug 4, 2015 at 08:34 PM.
if you can get stuff shipped to you from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRCKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1438949027&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=seal+puller&dpPl=1&dpI D=31q8HS6e6IL&ref=plSrch
or just google 'seal puller'.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRCKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1438949027&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=seal+puller&dpPl=1&dpI D=31q8HS6e6IL&ref=plSrch
or just google 'seal puller'.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
OP
if you are having a problem getting a seal puller in your location....just use a good size screw driver and a small piece of wood or something to act as a fulcrum and carefully pry up the seal with the tip of the screw driver. Just work around the inner edge of the seal. be careful not to catch the edge of the timing cover itself, just seal. The seal should lift out quite easily
to install just use a soft blow hammer like what SSR posted and tap gently in a circular motion around edge of seal until it is set flush in timing cover
pretty straight forward job.
Same procedure for Opti seal if you are doing that. The WP drive seal does want to be installed with some form of "sleeve" that fits over the WP drive spline. There is a specific tool for that but you can use the appropriate size long socket or even the coupler that joins the wp drive spline to wp spline. Point is you do not want to fold the inner lip over when installing the wp drive seal (assuming you are replacing all 3 Timing Cover seals)
FYI the crank seal you can grease the inner lip, the opti & wp seals install "dry" as they are PTFE seals
The FelPro TC gasket/seal kit has all the seals and gaskets you will need for around $12
if you are having a problem getting a seal puller in your location....just use a good size screw driver and a small piece of wood or something to act as a fulcrum and carefully pry up the seal with the tip of the screw driver. Just work around the inner edge of the seal. be careful not to catch the edge of the timing cover itself, just seal. The seal should lift out quite easily
to install just use a soft blow hammer like what SSR posted and tap gently in a circular motion around edge of seal until it is set flush in timing cover
pretty straight forward job.
Same procedure for Opti seal if you are doing that. The WP drive seal does want to be installed with some form of "sleeve" that fits over the WP drive spline. There is a specific tool for that but you can use the appropriate size long socket or even the coupler that joins the wp drive spline to wp spline. Point is you do not want to fold the inner lip over when installing the wp drive seal (assuming you are replacing all 3 Timing Cover seals)
FYI the crank seal you can grease the inner lip, the opti & wp seals install "dry" as they are PTFE seals
The FelPro TC gasket/seal kit has all the seals and gaskets you will need for around $12
You can't always just pry them out. Some people (like myself) like to coat the OD of the seal with loktite when they install it. It acts as a lube when it's wet and seals up good when dry.
Downside is that it's a bitch to get it out later
The correct way is to pull the cover, anyway. That way you can align the front cover perfectly using the seal.
Downside is that it's a bitch to get it out later
The correct way is to pull the cover, anyway. That way you can align the front cover perfectly using the seal.