Going into open loop
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Going into open loop Maybe my car had always done this or maybe it's normal but here's the deal
I just got my 96 going again after a 2 year sit from repairs and upgrades ..... After the first full tank of gas it turned out my car is only getting about 10mpg around Brooklyn ny... I was also randomly throwing code p0100
I believe the code was from the wires going into the harness so I believe I fixed that for now by just eliminating the factory harness connector and combining it with the 3-5 pin adapter on my slp maf that's been in the car
Today I was watching my a/f only scanner and I went from 14:7 to 14:2ish
That is when I noticed I had dropped into open loop
I can force clear the puck since no codes are present when this happens and it returns to closed loop and 14:7 instantly
Later on today it did the same thing again... Is this normal
I just got my 96 going again after a 2 year sit from repairs and upgrades ..... After the first full tank of gas it turned out my car is only getting about 10mpg around Brooklyn ny... I was also randomly throwing code p0100
I believe the code was from the wires going into the harness so I believe I fixed that for now by just eliminating the factory harness connector and combining it with the 3-5 pin adapter on my slp maf that's been in the car
Today I was watching my a/f only scanner and I went from 14:7 to 14:2ish
That is when I noticed I had dropped into open loop
I can force clear the puck since no codes are present when this happens and it returns to closed loop and 14:7 instantly
Later on today it did the same thing again... Is this normal
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Oh forgot to add if it makes a diff ...the only thing changed between now and when it was tuned a few years back is it had a msd box in it that quite working that is no longer hooked up
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383, afr heads, 236-242 cam, 30lb injectors, slp cai, slp 85mm maf, pacesetter long tubes ( non emission) cat delete, Casper rear O2 Simms, ...don't know if ya need more info or not...let me know....it had both a good mail order tune to get it going and a non mail order to tweak it about 3 years ago
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ok a little update from my drive home....into school it stayed in closed loop the whole time...coming home a code finally poppedup p1133 which makes sence
i watched live data stream on the car sensors the other day and all sensors were functioning normally so i presume the one o2 is just getting slow after a time or intermitant
as for the maf the car was tuned with this maf in the vehicle so i didnt want to upset the tune to much with a stock one....it seems that issue is alot better now that the wires were repaired
i watched live data stream on the car sensors the other day and all sensors were functioning normally so i presume the one o2 is just getting slow after a time or intermitant
as for the maf the car was tuned with this maf in the vehicle so i didnt want to upset the tune to much with a stock one....it seems that issue is alot better now that the wires were repaired
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Agree, look into O2 sensors. If you went with a mail order and or dyno tune, why do you have rear O2 simulators? Why not just tune out the rear O2's out and plug the holes?
O2's are great fir diagnosing issues (assuming they are working properly). Watching the voltage helped find a vacuum leak I had in an intake manifold gasket.
O2's are great fir diagnosing issues (assuming they are working properly). Watching the voltage helped find a vacuum leak I had in an intake manifold gasket.
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Well today I got to add p053 to the codes so there is deff something up with the o2s or wiring so I'll look at those....
At the time of the mail order I already had the rear sims in and working so when I bought my tuning software it was one of those areas that were just left as it was at the time and I haven't been able to get the car back on the dyno to fiddle with the tune more
At the time of the mail order I already had the rear sims in and working so when I bought my tuning software it was one of those areas that were just left as it was at the time and I haven't been able to get the car back on the dyno to fiddle with the tune more
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well its been a long overdue while since ive updated on this and im just now getting down and dirty on working on the car again...
i fixed a maf harness issue and replaced the o2 sensors and plugs and it ran good for about 15 miles until my new o2 on pass side slid from where i had it and melted on my header...
upon inspecting everything i had found a break in the knock sensor wire right at the connector, the whole o2 harness was messed up and melted in multiple spots....temporarily patched up the wires the best as i could and the car ran fine afterwards,,,the only issue that i noticed was my miliage has gone to **** and i'm not sure if its the scanning device i have (scannerII from autozone hardmounted) but my timing is somewhat irratic
well fastforward a month and today i started dissecting things again. i'm in the process of running all the wires thru electric conduit to try to protect them from the heat and headers and route them a lil better....hopefully when i get done with this all will be well on the car again
i fixed a maf harness issue and replaced the o2 sensors and plugs and it ran good for about 15 miles until my new o2 on pass side slid from where i had it and melted on my header...
upon inspecting everything i had found a break in the knock sensor wire right at the connector, the whole o2 harness was messed up and melted in multiple spots....temporarily patched up the wires the best as i could and the car ran fine afterwards,,,the only issue that i noticed was my miliage has gone to **** and i'm not sure if its the scanning device i have (scannerII from autozone hardmounted) but my timing is somewhat irratic
well fastforward a month and today i started dissecting things again. i'm in the process of running all the wires thru electric conduit to try to protect them from the heat and headers and route them a lil better....hopefully when i get done with this all will be well on the car again
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well all the wires running on the pass side are now repaired and rerouted to the point that i cant imagine any past an actual fire melting them this time...ran a new cable to the alternator since that was patched up when i moved my alternator to the drivers side...
she fired up and sounded good and healthy and my volts are now sitting at 14+ instead of 13.2 area i was at....timing seems to be right around 31-33 at idle instead of 31 -38 peaks..
the only thing else i noticed was the plugs that have about 3-400 miles on them the pass side has a good amount of carbon build up and the drivers side look pretty much like new so im hoping that had to do with the pass o2 wiring
she fired up and sounded good and healthy and my volts are now sitting at 14+ instead of 13.2 area i was at....timing seems to be right around 31-33 at idle instead of 31 -38 peaks..
the only thing else i noticed was the plugs that have about 3-400 miles on them the pass side has a good amount of carbon build up and the drivers side look pretty much like new so im hoping that had to do with the pass o2 wiring