383 lt1 build going forward!
Yes it has a t56, I though I read you had an auto above. But anyways the 6 speed is pretty tough. The slider keys are the weak point but I wouldn't mess with it until it gives trouble
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
than the answer to using a rear mounted earlier SBC distributor like the MSD 2345 will not work unless you convert the motor to a carburetor and the GMPP manifold
The 93 m6 has a shorter 1st gear and is only rated to 400rw tq I think, the 94+ were rated to 450.
For the block, you don't need a forged crank if under say 700hp. Plenty of had the stock crank survive. Personally if you are keeping those heads I would have the block sonic tested and go 0.060 if you can, if not go 0.040, 6" rods, 5cc reliefs, milled to 0.010 in the hole with an 0.026 head gasket and cc your chambers to see where your compression lands. Let Lloyd spec a cam, stock lifters, 7/16 NSA rockers, and let it eat and see if you hit 450rwhp, spinning it to 7100rpm. Or if you have the budget, or if the crank is trashed, 3.75" or 3.875" crank, 6" rods (no spray if 3.875 and 6" rods), ls1 PCM and spin it to the moon and shoot for more than 450.
For the block, you don't need a forged crank if under say 700hp. Plenty of had the stock crank survive. Personally if you are keeping those heads I would have the block sonic tested and go 0.060 if you can, if not go 0.040, 6" rods, 5cc reliefs, milled to 0.010 in the hole with an 0.026 head gasket and cc your chambers to see where your compression lands. Let Lloyd spec a cam, stock lifters, 7/16 NSA rockers, and let it eat and see if you hit 450rwhp, spinning it to 7100rpm. Or if you have the budget, or if the crank is trashed, 3.75" or 3.875" crank, 6" rods (no spray if 3.875 and 6" rods), ls1 PCM and spin it to the moon and shoot for more than 450.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
i sold the heads, sticking with the LE trick flos! what should i do for intake manifold? stock one and send it to LE so he can match it to the heads? or is there a better intake manifold i can use? also i have no idea what to do for the ignition and all that part of it?? Do i need any more fuel parts? i have my heads and cam figured out, i have my TB (AS&M), i have the rotating assembly picked out, i am using a canton oil pan, fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel, ram 980 clutch disk.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Cam
243/251 .597/603 110 LSA cam for "built" 383 with -5 cc flat top pistons and 6800 RPM shift RPM *BEST SET UP*
Straight from LE
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 442
Likes: 3
From: Raleigh, NC
Ported factory intake will be fine, I'm sure Lloyd will be happy to match it to your heads.
That's a big cam, I'd shoot for a SCR above 12:1.
Make sure whichever pistons you choose are at least as lightweight as stock ones are. A lot of folks have had good results with Mahle Powerpacks.
The stock ignition and opti, if it's in good working order, should be fine unless you plan to go well in excess of 7000rpm, which shouldn't be necessary to make over 450rw with that heads/cam combo. And if you do plan on spinning over 7000, you'll be looking at a PCM swap as well. You have to be careful about doing lots of ignition mods on these cars, Optisparks have had a reputation for sometimes not playing well with some of the aftermarket high-fire boxes and coils.
The Walbro 255 in-tank pump and a set of 30-36lb injectors should adequately feed a motor like this. A lot of folks have had good luck with the SVO red-top 30lb injectors, they are closer to 36lbs at the higher GM fuel pressure.
A combo like that should make some very nice power if it's done right, good luck and keep us posted.
That's a big cam, I'd shoot for a SCR above 12:1.
Make sure whichever pistons you choose are at least as lightweight as stock ones are. A lot of folks have had good results with Mahle Powerpacks.
The stock ignition and opti, if it's in good working order, should be fine unless you plan to go well in excess of 7000rpm, which shouldn't be necessary to make over 450rw with that heads/cam combo. And if you do plan on spinning over 7000, you'll be looking at a PCM swap as well. You have to be careful about doing lots of ignition mods on these cars, Optisparks have had a reputation for sometimes not playing well with some of the aftermarket high-fire boxes and coils.
The Walbro 255 in-tank pump and a set of 30-36lb injectors should adequately feed a motor like this. A lot of folks have had good luck with the SVO red-top 30lb injectors, they are closer to 36lbs at the higher GM fuel pressure.
A combo like that should make some very nice power if it's done right, good luck and keep us posted.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Ported factory intake will be fine, I'm sure Lloyd will be happy to match it to your heads.
That's a big cam, I'd shoot for a SCR above 12:1.
Make sure whichever pistons you choose are at least as lightweight as stock ones are. A lot of folks have had good results with Mahle Powerpacks.
The stock ignition and opti, if it's in good working order, should be fine unless you plan to go well in excess of 7000rpm, which shouldn't be necessary to make over 450rw with that heads/cam combo. And if you do plan on spinning over 7000, you'll be looking at a PCM swap as well. You have to be careful about doing lots of ignition mods on these cars, Optisparks have had a reputation for sometimes not playing well with some of the aftermarket high-fire boxes and coils.
The Walbro 255 in-tank pump and a set of 30-36lb injectors should adequately feed a motor like this. A lot of folks have had good luck with the SVO red-top 30lb injectors, they are closer to 36lbs at the higher GM fuel pressure.
A combo like that should make some very nice power if it's done right, good luck and keep us posted.
That's a big cam, I'd shoot for a SCR above 12:1.
Make sure whichever pistons you choose are at least as lightweight as stock ones are. A lot of folks have had good results with Mahle Powerpacks.
The stock ignition and opti, if it's in good working order, should be fine unless you plan to go well in excess of 7000rpm, which shouldn't be necessary to make over 450rw with that heads/cam combo. And if you do plan on spinning over 7000, you'll be looking at a PCM swap as well. You have to be careful about doing lots of ignition mods on these cars, Optisparks have had a reputation for sometimes not playing well with some of the aftermarket high-fire boxes and coils.
The Walbro 255 in-tank pump and a set of 30-36lb injectors should adequately feed a motor like this. A lot of folks have had good luck with the SVO red-top 30lb injectors, they are closer to 36lbs at the higher GM fuel pressure.
A combo like that should make some very nice power if it's done right, good luck and keep us posted.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
The forged Scat stuff is "good", not "best" but will be fine for your build
as noted Ford 30 LB SVO injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump
need to pay attention to what your "quench" will be. block and head machining, head gasket thickness are all part of the equation and your head chamber size in determining compression ratio
as noted Ford 30 LB SVO injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump
need to pay attention to what your "quench" will be. block and head machining, head gasket thickness are all part of the equation and your head chamber size in determining compression ratio
I would have the machine shop doing the work balance the assembly. The you can Have your machinist balance the assembly with your flywheel and dampener, then he can match the bore to the actual pistons rather than assume all components are to nominal.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
YES any rotating assembly needs to be balanced period. Don't take fr granted if the MFG says "balanced".
The Op's last post notes parts and the 2nd to last note says "rotating assemblies need to be finished balanced!"
Typically performance rebuilds are "internal" balance vs "external" (external would use FW as part of the balancing. Stock LT1 balancer is neutral balanced).
If going internal balance OP needs to run a "neutral" aka "zero" balance flywheel. The stock FW can be neutral balanced at a machine shop or you can buy one
The Op's last post notes parts and the 2nd to last note says "rotating assemblies need to be finished balanced!"
Typically performance rebuilds are "internal" balance vs "external" (external would use FW as part of the balancing. Stock LT1 balancer is neutral balanced).
If going internal balance OP needs to run a "neutral" aka "zero" balance flywheel. The stock FW can be neutral balanced at a machine shop or you can buy one
YES any rotating assembly needs to be balanced period. Don't take fr granted if the MFG says "balanced".
The Op's last post notes parts and the 2nd to last note says "rotating assemblies need to be finished balanced!"
Typically performance rebuilds are "internal" balance vs "external" (external would use FW as part of the balancing. Stock LT1 balancer is neutral balanced).
If going internal balance OP needs to run a "neutral" aka "zero" balance flywheel. The stock FW can be neutral balanced at a machine shop or you can buy one
The Op's last post notes parts and the 2nd to last note says "rotating assemblies need to be finished balanced!"
Typically performance rebuilds are "internal" balance vs "external" (external would use FW as part of the balancing. Stock LT1 balancer is neutral balanced).
If going internal balance OP needs to run a "neutral" aka "zero" balance flywheel. The stock FW can be neutral balanced at a machine shop or you can buy one