383 lt1 build going forward!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
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From: Upstate NY
383 lt1 build going forward! Ok so progress is now in place! While I wanted to go with a loyd Elliot trick flo head and cam package I ended up getting a set of ported Afr 190 heads and matching intake with 58mm bore for 1300.00. They came off a 355 lt1 built 2 years ago and have less than 1000 miles on them. I will post pics. I also bought a stock lt1 block (came out of a 96 Camaro) I took it to a machine shop and the guy said before he touches it he would like the rotation assembly in hand so he can get exact measurmeants or something. So I am working on getting a kit together that is -5cc flat top Pistons, 6" h-beam rods all forged, forged everything, eagle gave me a price for 1600.00 which is fine but 5.7 rods and not the right Pistons. And I'm just going off what Lloyd recommended. Also what cam? I want as much hp as possible! I don't believe they make a good quality kit to match what I'm looking for. Should I just buy everything separately?
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
So, I guess the heads on the 355 have been sitting on a shelf for some time? Those are pre-eliminators which they stopped making back in 2006. Hard to say what they'll flow because of the work that's been done, but I know they aren't all that great in stock form.
Your machinist wants the rotating assembly first so he can do some clearancing for rod bolts and pistons for boring.
What do you want to do with this engine? Street NA? Solid roller? Spray?
The general recommendation is a 4340 crank, 4340 rods with 7/16" ARPs, and forged pistons, but details like H/I beam/rod length/piston alloy depend on app. Scat or Eagle and Mahles will get it done for most people.
Your machinist wants the rotating assembly first so he can do some clearancing for rod bolts and pistons for boring.
What do you want to do with this engine? Street NA? Solid roller? Spray?
The general recommendation is a 4340 crank, 4340 rods with 7/16" ARPs, and forged pistons, but details like H/I beam/rod length/piston alloy depend on app. Scat or Eagle and Mahles will get it done for most people.
Street/strip means a hydraulic roller setup and pump gas.
Do you mean 500 at the wheels or flywheel?
Flywheel can be done on a stock displacement H/C setup pretty easily. If you meant at the wheels then you're out of luck, even with added displacement and if your car is a m6. Not really doable on this platform.
Do you mean 500 at the wheels or flywheel?
Flywheel can be done on a stock displacement H/C setup pretty easily. If you meant at the wheels then you're out of luck, even with added displacement and if your car is a m6. Not really doable on this platform.
Are you a4 or m6?
If you're m6 then shoot for 450rwhp with a moderate sized cam (high 220s - low 240s duration). This is assuming the work on those 190s was any good. Pray that they flow as well as LE2s because there are a lot of small time "porters" out there who will take your money and leave you with shiny heads that look good but don't make HP. You will also want to bump compression up to mid 11s to 12:1 if 93 octane is readily available. The supporting mods like long tubes, catback, injectors, etc. all apply. No point in dumping a bunch of money into a 383 just to choke it. You will also need gears... that will also make your 10 bolt more likely to blow up if you have traction.
If you're m6 then shoot for 450rwhp with a moderate sized cam (high 220s - low 240s duration). This is assuming the work on those 190s was any good. Pray that they flow as well as LE2s because there are a lot of small time "porters" out there who will take your money and leave you with shiny heads that look good but don't make HP. You will also want to bump compression up to mid 11s to 12:1 if 93 octane is readily available. The supporting mods like long tubes, catback, injectors, etc. all apply. No point in dumping a bunch of money into a 383 just to choke it. You will also need gears... that will also make your 10 bolt more likely to blow up if you have traction.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Are you a4 or m6?
If you're m6 then shoot for 450rwhp with a moderate sized cam (high 220s - low 240s duration). This is assuming the work on those 190s was any good. Pray that they flow as well as LE2s because there are a lot of small time "porters" out there who will take your money and leave you with shiny heads that look good but don't make HP. You will also want to bump compression up to mid 11s to 12:1 if 93 octane is readily available. The supporting mods like long tubes, catback, injectors, etc. all apply. No point in dumping a bunch of money into a 383 just to choke it. You will also need gears... that will also make your 10 bolt more likely to blow up if you have traction.
If you're m6 then shoot for 450rwhp with a moderate sized cam (high 220s - low 240s duration). This is assuming the work on those 190s was any good. Pray that they flow as well as LE2s because there are a lot of small time "porters" out there who will take your money and leave you with shiny heads that look good but don't make HP. You will also want to bump compression up to mid 11s to 12:1 if 93 octane is readily available. The supporting mods like long tubes, catback, injectors, etc. all apply. No point in dumping a bunch of money into a 383 just to choke it. You will also need gears... that will also make your 10 bolt more likely to blow up if you have traction.
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Verdad Gallardo I'm not sure what it is, it's a 1993 6spd. The rear end is getting changed to a 12 bolt, not sure which one yet, all depends on the deal I can find lol. what if I go with a larger cam than that? 243/251 .597/603 110 lsa, that's what Lloyd recommended with his trick flo heads.
That cam is probably way too big for those heads and will drive like crap. It might make the highest peak hp but the power/torque curves would suffer and there would be a ton of cam surge. The only way to really know is to have them flowed with another head as a reference, but if the port work was done by a nobody then I wouldn't have too much faith in them.
The 12 bolt is an alright rear but the pinion really gets beat up in a stick car with traction. They can get noisy. The 9" or s60 is a better option (although they consume more power).
Also, the 93 t56 isn't as strong as later years because of 1st gear. It has a lower torque rating than 94-97.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
ok, m6 it is, it's amazing how much stuff there is to know, I've been reading and researching for months and months and months and have still yet to know the simplest of things about these cars lol
500rwhp on pump gas with a hydraulic roller 383 is a tall order. I don't think the 190s are worth putting money into because of pushrod placement. To even come close you'll need a light assembly, huge cam, comp 227s, and a big intake to feed it. I still don't think it's really doable on this platform.
While uncommon and not cheap a few hydraulic cam cars have dabbled with 500rwhp and they don't need a head with as big a hole as possible. Pretty sure the Trickflows have been used before.
Far as the AFR 190s even AFR lovers will tell you not worthwhile even with milder goals.
They look good at a car show though.
Far as the AFR 190s even AFR lovers will tell you not worthwhile even with milder goals.
They look good at a car show though.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Btw what do I tell the guy to do? Like what all can I have him do besides just bore it? I want it to be top of the line, strong as can be. What ever a mechine shop can do to to it I would like done. Do I have to order 4 bolt mains? Don't order that stuff with the rotating assembly? Am I making any sense lol if not please straighten me out!
Sonic test it for wall thickness, magnaflux for cracks, then torque plate it for the bore punch out .030 over, align the mains and of course drill the mains for 4 bolts splayed or straight your choice, probably will need to clearance the block for the rod throw and then deck the block to whatever height you want. Have em check all the lifter bores for straight ness and correct bore etc.
I would have it nicely painted and cleaned up while you are at it too. Could even glyptol the lifter valley.
I would have it nicely painted and cleaned up while you are at it too. Could even glyptol the lifter valley.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Sonic test it for wall thickness, magnaflux for cracks, then torque plate it for the bore punch out .030 over, align the mains and of course drill the mains for 4 bolts splayed or straight your choice, probably will need to clearance the block for the rod throw and then deck the block to whatever height you want. Have em check all the lifter bores for straight ness and correct bore etc.
I would have it nicely painted and cleaned up while you are at it too. Could even glyptol the lifter valley.
I would have it nicely painted and cleaned up while you are at it too. Could even glyptol the lifter valley.
Thanks! Everyone has me talked out of these heads I bought. Also my machine guy wants to know what I am going to do for a tranny, he wants to know my gear ratio and tire size as well. Right now my car has corvette rims 17's front 18's rear and I plan on keeping them but getting some real good tires on them, my machine guy suggested I go with a Tremec 6spd, also what do I do about a bell housing?