Building a 355, imput wanted
Building a 355, imput wanted As the title says, I'm going to build a 355 over winter and next year. I plan on using my 643 castings to send to Lloyd for a le2 setup. Ported intake to match. I want a fun 450 ish whp car n/a that can take spray at the track, 200 shot at most.
So I'd like to be around 12:1 or just above cr wise, heads will be 52 or 54 cc. I'm thinking a 6in rod, I read a good thread on here comparing 5.7 to 6in.
Knowing I won't DD the car, but want reliability I'm looking for part suggestions. I plan on doing 24x, to Rev past 7k, Lloyd spec'd me a cam good to 7500. I want different but not to be unrealistic with what can be done.
What pistons, brand, relief etc, rods, head gaskets? Can the stock crank take that rpm, etc?
So I'd like to be around 12:1 or just above cr wise, heads will be 52 or 54 cc. I'm thinking a 6in rod, I read a good thread on here comparing 5.7 to 6in.
Knowing I won't DD the car, but want reliability I'm looking for part suggestions. I plan on doing 24x, to Rev past 7k, Lloyd spec'd me a cam good to 7500. I want different but not to be unrealistic with what can be done.
What pistons, brand, relief etc, rods, head gaskets? Can the stock crank take that rpm, etc?
Spoke to ERE, no stock crank. Essentially I'll move forward with my 355 plans. Going to get the top end first, le2 and cam combo. Callies crank and rods, mahle pistons etc etc.
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I thought they were supposed to be pretty stout.
Edit:
Never mind. 7500rpm...
Probably a little much for the stock crank.
Last edited by fbody_brian; Nov 9, 2015 at 02:44 PM.
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
I'd go with the Callies Dragonslayer Crank, and matching Rods. Pistons, better be stout for 200 shot at 7500 rpm.
I'm running Sealed Power forged on my set up with a CC306, but I won't be running over 6500 rpm. I am also planning on running a 200 shot.
So I would say in your case, spend some money on a nice set of Wiseco or the KB high end pistons....
I'm running Sealed Power forged on my set up with a CC306, but I won't be running over 6500 rpm. I am also planning on running a 200 shot.
So I would say in your case, spend some money on a nice set of Wiseco or the KB high end pistons....
Why would you replace the perfectly good stock crank and NOT put a stroker crank in it? There's no need to turn that kind of RPM for 450 RWHP IMO. A 383 will do that turning only 6500 with the right heads/cam and be more drivable doing it. 
A forged 383 crank will cost just a much as a forged 350 crank. You'll need studded 4 bolt mains turning that kind of RPM anyway. You're buying rods/pistons anyway, why not go bigger for the same price? The only difference is block clearancing < $100
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Verdad Gallardo I asked ERE if it was better suited to go with a 383 instead, for the same reasons pointed out here. Already doing ALL of that work etc, why not? I was essentially wanting the imput from the guys here, most have done bigger cube motors and made the power I'd like to make.
Since this is all in the works, and I DO have a 4 bolt main motor already
I'll be weighing both 383 and 396. I just don't want something that's picky as **** to tune, and needs constant tinkering (within reason) I've got a few more months worth of reading to do at this point it seems.
Since this is all in the works, and I DO have a 4 bolt main motor already
I'll be weighing both 383 and 396. I just don't want something that's picky as **** to tune, and needs constant tinkering (within reason) I've got a few more months worth of reading to do at this point it seems. 
My 355 is running the stock crank with 6" h beam eagle rods. I also have ross forged pistons with -5cc valve reliefs. I am also running a stock 4 bolt main block with arp studs. The top end is 21* trickflow heads ported by lloyd elliott and his matching cam. Compression about 12 to 1. Lloyd basically told me what to do as I said I wanted a 355 also. No decent track times till next year but there are a couple more on here just like it that run bottom 11s na. I don't remember what head gasket off hand but its felpro and yes, it's going to spin high.
Last edited by transbird95; Nov 10, 2015 at 03:08 AM.
I asked ERE if it was better suited to go with a 383 instead, for the same reasons pointed out here. Already doing ALL of that work etc, why not? I was essentially wanting the imput from the guys here, most have done bigger cube motors and made the power I'd like to make.
Since this is all in the works, and I DO have a 4 bolt main motor already I'll be weighing both 383 and 396. I just don't want something that's picky as **** to tune, and needs constant tinkering (within reason) I've got a few more months worth of reading to do at this point it seems.
Since this is all in the works, and I DO have a 4 bolt main motor already
I'll be weighing both 383 and 396. I just don't want something that's picky as **** to tune, and needs constant tinkering (within reason) I've got a few more months worth of reading to do at this point it seems.
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I'd run the stock crank if staying 355. Stroker if buying crank. I'm running cp bullet pistons and 6in compstar rods in my 355. My pistons are 6.83cc. My compression 11.5 and I'm spinning my to 7k (damn stock computer).
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I've seen folks turn 8000 rpm reliably with the stock crank.
To turn over 7000, you probably ought to just go with an aftermarket ECU instead of 24x.
Either way, 450 is easily doable with a 7000 rpm limit and stock ECU with 383 cubes. It's also been done within these parameters with a 355, but not nearly as often.
It'd be much more cost-effective to just do a 383 with stock ECM limited to 7000rpm and make the same power as a 355 with 24x or aftermarket ECM turning 7500+. And you'd do it with a less maintenance intensive valvetrain too.
To turn over 7000, you probably ought to just go with an aftermarket ECU instead of 24x.
Either way, 450 is easily doable with a 7000 rpm limit and stock ECU with 383 cubes. It's also been done within these parameters with a 355, but not nearly as often.
It'd be much more cost-effective to just do a 383 with stock ECM limited to 7000rpm and make the same power as a 355 with 24x or aftermarket ECM turning 7500+. And you'd do it with a less maintenance intensive valvetrain too.
Like button pressed, that's exactly what I was thinking.
A well done 355 has more torque than you can use on the street anyway, and the only reason to buy a crank for one is to go lightweight.
396 sounds great but seems to me when you look at results the extra stroke doesn't actually accomplish much.
Far as the guy who "hated his 355" well you do **** wrong doesn't matter what the displacement is. A well thought out stock shortblock setup walks all over a "popular opinion" stroker, been done time and time again.
Most of the guys who say a 355 isn't worthwhile never tried a decent heads/cam or 355 setup, that said if buying a crank a 383 makes a lot of sense unless doing a light 355 using a 45lbs crank.
396 sounds great but seems to me when you look at results the extra stroke doesn't actually accomplish much.
Far as the guy who "hated his 355" well you do **** wrong doesn't matter what the displacement is. A well thought out stock shortblock setup walks all over a "popular opinion" stroker, been done time and time again.
Most of the guys who say a 355 isn't worthwhile never tried a decent heads/cam or 355 setup, that said if buying a crank a 383 makes a lot of sense unless doing a light 355 using a 45lbs crank.
A well done 355 has more torque than you can use on the street anyway, and the only reason to buy a crank for one is to go lightweight.
396 sounds great but seems to me when you look at results the extra stroke doesn't actually accomplish much.
Far as the guy who "hated his 355" well you do **** wrong doesn't matter what the displacement is. A well thought out stock shortblock setup walks all over a "popular opinion" stroker, been done time and time again.
Most of the guys who say a 355 isn't worthwhile never tried a decent heads/cam or 355 setup, that said if buying a crank a 383 makes a lot of sense unless doing a light 355 using a 45lbs crank.
396 sounds great but seems to me when you look at results the extra stroke doesn't actually accomplish much.
Far as the guy who "hated his 355" well you do **** wrong doesn't matter what the displacement is. A well thought out stock shortblock setup walks all over a "popular opinion" stroker, been done time and time again.
Most of the guys who say a 355 isn't worthwhile never tried a decent heads/cam or 355 setup, that said if buying a crank a 383 makes a lot of sense unless doing a light 355 using a 45lbs crank.
How come the highest dynoing NA LT1's are always either a 383 or 396? Strokers can be just as well thought out as a stock short block setup. I don't see any 355 coming anywhere near 500RWHP as has been done numerous times with a stroker....and for little more $$.ROAD TRIP----------541H/XXXT 385ci DART 13:1 solid XFI T56----*no dyno graph
SPEED DENSITY-----537H/501T 396ci AFR210 VictorE 236/242----*no dyno graph
OUTLAWZ----------529H/XXXT 383ci AFR227 12:1 solid XFI th400-*no dyno graph
ED WRITE----------503H/XXXT 383ci LT4 solid 4L60 unlocked------*no dyno graph
ELKYSS------------502H/XXXT 396ci AFR no data ----------------*no dyno graph
-PEPE-------------500H/442T 396 AFR210 solid Jessell-------------*no dyno graph
CALLAWAYC8------494H/XXXT 383ci CNC stock serodecked--------*no dyno graph
FASTFATBOY------463H/436T 383ci RHS solid pump gas ----------*yes dyno graph
2FAST77Z---------459H/441T 383ci LE2 12:1 LE4 REV T56--------*no dyno graph
NASTYNATE-------457H/433T 383 CMS ported 236/242------------*no dyno graph
RAMAIR95TA-------455H/XXXT 383ci AI200 4l60E -----------------*yes dyno video
SPLINER-----------442H/450T 388ci LE2 13:1 --------------------*yes dyno graph
INDIROCZ28-------431H/408T 355ci STOCK 230/236--------------*no dyno graph
PAT GISH----------425H/386T 350ci AI200 AIHR 4L60E Locked----*yes dyno graph
QUICKSHOTKIMBER-421H/428T 350 ported EBradly TH350----------*no dyno graph
BLKCHEVYZ--------420H/374T 350 CHS FMS ---------------------*no dyno graph
REALFASTVETTE---407H/354T 383 AFR210 Futuralcam ------------*no dyno graph
SCRMNWS6--------403H/378T 350 LE2 T56 ----------------------*no dyno graph
KRYCKTER---------400H/360TQ 350ci LE2 Boltons ----------------*no dyno graph
Actually I can think of a AI ported LT1 head 355 that made like 499rwhp but that isn't anywhere near 500.
Dynos and size are most important when trying to compensate for something but not so much when trying to go fast.
My 4200lbs car that cuts 1.5s on slicks breaks the UHP street tires loose at 45mph, not sure how it could use more torque.
Dynos and size are most important when trying to compensate for something but not so much when trying to go fast.
My 4200lbs car that cuts 1.5s on slicks breaks the UHP street tires loose at 45mph, not sure how it could use more torque.
Actually I can think of a AI ported LT1 head 355 that made like 499rwhp but that isn't anywhere near 500.
Dynos and size are most important when trying to compensate for something but not so much when trying to go fast.
My 4200lbs car that cuts 1.5s on slicks breaks the UHP street tires loose at 45mph, not sure how it could use more torque.
Dynos and size are most important when trying to compensate for something but not so much when trying to go fast.
My 4200lbs car that cuts 1.5s on slicks breaks the UHP street tires loose at 45mph, not sure how it could use more torque.
The "too much torque" argument gets old, the 650lb/ft offered by the LT4 or Hellcat from the factory seems to get those cars down the road just fine! Just put on slicks and run 10's from the show room floor
! A piddly 400+ RWTQ LT1 seems pretty tame in comparison 