LT Header question
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Teching In
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LT Header question Have a set of longtube pacesetters with Y-pipe. Ive been reading write ups on installs and came across a thread someone said that without poly motor mounts the frame will dent up the new headers when you stomp on it. Is this true? Has anyone had any clearance issues? Thanks.
I don't have personal experience with pacesetter headers but most people replace the motor mounts during the header install. If your car still has the stock motor mounts in it chances are they are worn and can cause clearance issues with Lts. The Lts will probably fit without new motor mounts but then the y pipe may rattle or touch with engine torque. Might as well replace them while you're under the car anyway.
That will make getting them in easier for sure, but get another set of hands to help you get them bolted up if you can. I've never been so frustrated in my life as when I had to try to wrestle my headers into position and get a bolt started at the same time...
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I will have help. The only thing I'm kind of dreading is in most write ups people remove the dipstick tube..Preparing to breaking that off..lol Also, the egr tube I dont even know how i'll get to that maybe it will look different from underneath the car. Other than that it mostly looks like monkey wrenching.
On The Tree
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From: Canada NL
I have Pacesetter LT's with their Y-Pipe on my car i never replaced the motor mounts, i have no problems with my headers no knocking cars halls *** after the header install. I done my header install on the floor in my garage, was it fun no not really but if you know anything about cars you will get it done. It will be a all day job.
Having a lift will definitely help. Every car I've done has been on the garage floor with Jack stands. Egr tube and dip stick aren't that bad. Best advice I can give is to soak all the manifold bolts/y pipe bolts and everything else you need to take off with PB Blaster or something similar the night before if possible. That will definitely help keep from breaking bolts. The stock y pipe bolts will probably break anyway.
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Is there any way to get around having to remove the dip stick tube? Most of the times I've seen people try to remove dipsticks they snap off.. Also, any tips and tricks or heads up would be much appreciated! I think I got it down, but somewhere out there some really lazy dude found an easier way lmao. The egr tube is something I was really dreading on trying to get to. Any tips on that? Oh and PB blaster is already working its magic tonight on the header bolts.
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Verdad Gallardo You're going to have to remove the dipstick tube. Just take the bolt out and twist it back and forth while pulling up on it. You might have to bend it a little. Are you planning on keeping the egr? If not just unbolt it from the back of the intake and bend the tube or cut it to get it out of the way.
The worry about the headers hitting the k member is not about causing a dent in your headers (you can't even see that area, you would never know), its about the header hitting the k member and the PCM seeing that in the knock sensor, pulling timing, decreasing performance. 20 year old rubber mounts deteriorate and cause the engine to sag, so new mounts lift the motor back up to stock and keep the headers from touching the k member, preventing false knock. No issues on mine with pacesetters and eurathane mounts.
And yes, the EGR is a mother ****** to get back hooked up with the stock hvac in place.
And yes, the EGR is a mother ****** to get back hooked up with the stock hvac in place.
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Well after about 6 hours, driver side is in, passenger side is hanging but I cant get the front flange bolt started. I've literally tried EVERYTHING. The way the pipe expands from the flange it wants to push the bolt out of going into the head. After a lot of cussing and dropping a 3/8 socket down to the A arm I went home. If not for that bolt I would have been looking at connecting my Y-pipe and plug wires tomorrow. Instead I've got some more cussing ahead of me. I really am doubting on being able to figure this bolt out.
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Long Beach, MS
Well after about 6 hours, driver side is in, passenger side is hanging but I cant get the front flange bolt started. I've literally tried EVERYTHING. The way the pipe expands from the flange it wants to push the bolt out of going into the head. After a lot of cussing and dropping a 3/8 socket down to the A arm I went home. If not for that bolt I would have been looking at connecting my Y-pipe and plug wires tomorrow. Instead I've got some more cussing ahead of me. I really am doubting on being able to figure this bolt out.
I had a similar problem on the drivers side. Had to take most of the bolts out to get the back one started
If I read it right I think you're saying that the primary tube coming off the flange is making the bolt push out and not able to start to thread it into the head? If that's what's happening pull the header flange away from the head. Push the bolt through the bolt hole on the flange so that the head of the bolt sits flush against the flange. Use an wrench (not a socket because of the primary tube) and start to thread the bolt into the head. Get a few turns in and start the back bolt. Then put you gasket on. While the header is still spaced away from the head check the other bolts and make sure the primaries aren't messing up them either. Now if this doesn't work you could use a hammer to clearence the primary if you don't mind denting a new set of headers. Again this only applies if this is actually the problem you're having. Otherwise I just wrote a lot for nothing.
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Whats going on is the actual pipe is not allowing the bolt to be angled right. Its touching the bolt so that doesn't let me get a wrench/ratchet on it while still having the proper angle...The driver side literally slid right up in, I didn't unbolt steering shaft or anything. This passenger side is a big PITA. I've even went so far as to grinding the little flange off of the bolt so it would give me a little more room. Still doesn't work. judging from the feel of a little flathead screw driver, the hole is about and 1/8" off...But the collector is hitting the passenger side floorboard. So I cant push it up anymore. I do still have the heat shield running along so I can take that off to give me a little more room.
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Thanks huntr I really didn't think of that! DUH, after so many hours you start to get burnt out and get stupid, Ill try that...I still think I'm having clearance issues with passenger side floor board...let the lift down on a few 6x6s should crunch me up some more clearance lmfao
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Well after the test drive I noticed my band clamp from ORY to the stock I pipe let go. In effect at idle the I pipe is kind of rattling. The engine rpms seem to fluctuate the slightest bit at idle and its kind of in sync with the I pipe moving.. It may be the increasing and decreasing of backpressure thats causing the engine to hiccup. At WOT the engine runs great, no breakup or anything. I didnt think the band clamp was holding very good anyway, I bought a 3" to 2.5" reducer from NAPA and am going to try to fix that first. All in All I think this install was a big PITA, however I did get the EGR ones >_< Race ones probably wouldve clearanced better. Engine lost a little lowend but after about 3-3500 rpm it pulls nicely. I just want to know who in the h*ll would attempt this on jackstands?! lmao. Without the install writeups from sites like these I would have never attempted this, thanks guys