95 trans am keeps blowing fusible link e help!
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95 trans am keeps blowing fusible link e help! 95 ta lt1 t56 was running fine when cooling fans decided not to come on so I tried the jumping pin 5 and 6 of the DLC to make the fans kick apparently this shorted something out and now nothing works while key is in the on position no dash no crank no radio, I tried changing column out with a new ignition switch , which did not help, my test process is to take test leads with a blade fuse between them. Any ideas
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update ive since tried unplugging fans and still blows 10 amp fuse, tried hooking up another fusible link thatt ended with lots of smoke from new link and from ignition switch, tried a 20 amp fuse and i hear a sizzle sound (dont wanna do that anymore) i need help please
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thanks yeah i have been using your site it has loads of info, what would be an equivalent fuse for test purposes? i read that a 1.0 mm fusible link was equivalent to a 22 amp so i thought that was ok but your right super bad idea!!
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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thanks for the help thats what ive been doing since i realized i had a problem, strange thing is there is not a single fuse blown, ill keep you posted on what i find out, all this over a inner fender screw
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ok ive got everywhere it need to be to get a crank, the orange wire from ignition switch to underhood fuse box seems to be shot i would like to hear it crank tho, can i run a test at this point, and how hard is it to pull the complete wiring harness? not the engine harness the one that goes to the fuse boxes
Last edited by Treachery; Dec 27, 2015 at 10:54 AM.
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From: Thibodaux LA
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hey man. i had an issue with my fans not working and the 10amp fan fuse kept popping. i traced it to an o2 sensor wire grounding out on my header. i wasnt blowing any fuseable links, but it could help
hey man. i had an issue with my fans not working and the 10amp fan fuse kept popping. i traced it to an o2 sensor wire grounding out on my header. i wasnt blowing any fuseable links, but it could help
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i found the cause , it was one of the sheet metal screws that hold the little plastic inner fender in cut the pink wire of the ignition switch right below the fuse box , the problem now is all the damage that it has caused to the wiring, i have since got it to run by bypass the hot wire to the ignition and running my own, i hate extra wiring tho, the issue im stuck on now is the orange wire off the ignition that goes to the under hood fuse box apparently its fried too and i cant find were to tie into it at as it splits into 3 after the ignition switch
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ok shbox ive got down to where all i need to fix is in the underhood fuse box fuses for fans/actr and abs ign are grounded on both sides ive cut the bad wire out so why would they still show grounded on both fuses?
Last edited by Treachery; Dec 27, 2015 at 06:42 PM.
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its the fan side is the cause of the ground fuse 6 the brown wire of the c100 connector is grounded out in the harness between the shock tower plug and the interior kick panel plug, ive looked and untaped for hours would you see a problem with splicing a good wire between the 2 plugs i do not see on any schematics that it runs anywhere else
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Ok so the thing is back running I had to get a donor engine wiring harness never could locate short, ended up the cause was a sheet metal screw holding in the inner fender right below fuse box and it also fried the hot wire going to the ignition,
Also I have a question I'm new to this car but I seemed like the rear hatch button worked before when key was in the off position now it only works with key in run is this correct?
Also I have a question I'm new to this car but I seemed like the rear hatch button worked before when key was in the off position now it only works with key in run is this correct?