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Skip the autozone or stock clutch if you do have to replace it. I'm ordering a Competition Clutches Stage 2.5 after all the good feedback on here, the PITA part is finding it. One site said it didn't fit my car, but I emailed CC and they said it does fit, so I have to try other sites to find it for the $260 I should pay. $260 is cheaper or as cheap as autozone. As soon as I order it today or tomorrow ill let you know what site I found and the price.
Just order a new master/slave from rockauto. I did mine 4 years ago and it was the exact same as stock, same markings and part numbers and was $106 I think.
I had done just the slave 3 years earlier but eventually it would bleed down pressure if you held the clutch in and start rolling forward after 5 seconds.
Eibach rear springs sag, find a stock rear spring and cut a coil off and use a heater hose and get it back to level, or ditch all 4 and get BMR/Strano springs. Combine that with Bilstein HD shocks and its a totally different handling car. If it has decarbons and eibachs I bet it rides like ****.
First order will be sort out that harness and fix electrical nightmares from the PO. Then address ball joints, bushings, and outer tie rod ends. Find an LS1 rack with steering shaft to eliminate the rag joint.
You can go to Joanne's Fabrics and get Headliner Adhesive in a rattle can, and headliner fabric.
Skip the autozone or stock clutch if you do have to replace it. I'm ordering a Competition Clutches Stage 2.5 after all the good feedback on here, the PITA part is finding it. One site said it didn't fit my car, but I emailed CC and they said it does fit, so I have to try other sites to find it for the $260 I should pay. $260 is cheaper or as cheap as autozone. As soon as I order it today or tomorrow ill let you know what site I found and the price.
Just order a new master/slave from rockauto. I did mine 4 years ago and it was the exact same as stock, same markings and part numbers and was $106 I think.
I had done just the slave 3 years earlier but eventually it would bleed down pressure if you held the clutch in and start rolling forward after 5 seconds.
Eibach rear springs sag, find a stock rear spring and cut a coil off and use a heater hose and get it back to level, or ditch all 4 and get BMR/Strano springs. Combine that with Bilstein HD shocks and its a totally different handling car. If it has decarbons and eibachs I bet it rides like ****.
First order will be sort out that harness and fix electrical nightmares from the PO. Then address ball joints, bushings, and outer tie rod ends. Find an LS1 rack with steering shaft to eliminate the rag joint.
You can go to Joanne's Fabrics and get Headliner Adhesive in a rattle can, and headliner fabric.
It actually has BMRs on bilstein. I was planning on doing that headliner trick. As far as the MAF wiring, I'm almost nervous to mess with it. It runs and runs really good, and hasn't thrown a code and i scanned it with my scanner... It runs great especially for have sitting so long and bad gas. I'm going to order the Slave cylinder kit from rock auto this afternoon and install when it gets here. Car is not to bad for a 6speed hardtop for 1600$.
looks like a good start! I picked up my 94 m6 hardtop for $1500 a couple years ago, the interior was rough although the dash was in mint condition luckily. I have since re-done the interior with all new/used clean panels and a new headliner. I found a guy on ebay that sells new healiners for our cars (and I'm sure others) he uses ABS plastic as the backing instead of the foam stuff these cars have from the factory. I don't remember the user name/price, but if your interested I can find it for you
looks like a good start! I picked up my 94 m6 hardtop for $1500 a couple years ago, the interior was rough although the dash was in mint condition luckily. I have since re-done the interior with all new/used clean panels and a new headliner. I found a guy on ebay that sells new healiners for our cars (and I'm sure others) he uses ABS plastic as the backing instead of the foam stuff these cars have from the factory. I don't remember the user name/price, but if your interested I can find it for you
Ha yeah that is a nice score finding one where the dash doesn't look like someone took a BFH to it! I might eventually go for the ABS headliner but as of now I'll probably just spray headliner glue on it and put some new cloth on it. See how well my upholstery skills are lol
Skip the autozone or stock clutch if you do have to replace it.
He had mentioned earlier that he was not looking at a complete build. That's why the recommendations to stick with a stock organic clutch. The stock clutch can handle a little bit more than bolt on's, and it'll drive really nice and last a while.
I kick myself for going stock clutch when I replaced mine. You can tell yourself 100 times you don't need more power but you are lying to yourself. IMO get a better one than stock, and don't have to do it twice if you get the hp bug again, and everyone seems to say the CC 2.5 drives like stock.
The nitrous solenoids explain the 6AL, and the fubared wiring. I'd at least go through the wiring and replace any frayed wires and clean up the lengths and solder connections instead of crimps. I'm not saying modify it, just clean it up and get a better understanding of what the PO did and prevent future headaches.
I kick myself for going stock clutch when I replaced mine. You can tell yourself 100 times you don't need more power but you are lying to yourself. IMO get a better one than stock, and don't have to do it twice if you get the hp bug again, and everyone seems to say the CC 2.5 drives like stock.
The nitrous solenoids explain the 6AL, and the fubared wiring. I'd at least go through the wiring and replace any frayed wires and clean up the lengths and solder connections instead of crimps. I'm not saying modify it, just clean it up and get a better understanding of what the PO did and prevent future headaches.
+1 stock clutch sucks IMO and are notoriously weak, barely adequate for stock power level, once you add 40-50+ hp with bolt ons and better tires the clutch WILL be slipping at high RPM whether you realize it or not. I recommend the RAM HDX for a street driven car....30-60% more holding power, stock like engagement with an organic clutch material, rated to 450HP, easier to drive on the street than the RAM power grip HD (the street/strip version rated at 550hp) . It gives up nothing in terms of drivability to the stock clutch while giving you room to grow power wise (and sticky tire wise)!
+1 stock clutch sucks IMO and are notoriously weak, barely adequate for stock power level, once you add 40-50+ hp with bolt ons and better tires the clutch WILL be slipping at high RPM whether you realize it or not. I recommend the RAM HDX for a street driven car....30-60% more holding power, stock like engagement with an organic clutch material, rated to 450HP, easier to drive on the street than the RAM power grip HD (the street/strip version rated at 550hp) . It gives up nothing in terms of drivability to the stock clutch while giving you room to grow power wise (and sticky tire wise)!
I've had the RAM HDx, it did worse than my stock one. It would slip if I rode out the clutch until I let of the throttle, and that was when I only had the ebay intake and Magnaflow catback with no cat. My stock set up with the McLeod disc does much better in biting power (with my current mods no less), but doesn't drive as smooth (chatter) at low rpm slips.
Found my problem... Throw out bearing is TRASHED. The fork is practically dangling there and metal shavings fall when i wiggle it. Even seen a ball bearing fall down. Looks like I'm dropping the Trans.
HRC, what is the BFH mod on the Trans tunnel you talked about earlier? I'd like to know before I put the Trans back in. I started dropping the Trans at 3 it is now 6 o'clock and I only have the bolt on the top and it'll be out.
HRC, what is the BFH mod on the Trans tunnel you talked about earlier? I'd like to know before I put the Trans back in. I started dropping the Trans at 3 it is now 6 o'clock and I only have the bolt on the top and it'll be out.
The middle drivers side trans bell housing to engine bolt is really close to the tunnel. It is difficult to get a socket on there. So I used a hammer and modded that portion of the tunnel to allow enough space for a socket to get on the bolt. Unfortunately, the bell housing and clutch have to be out in order to do that. So removing it for the first time will be a biatch.
The middle drivers side trans bell housing to engine bolt is really close to the tunnel. It is difficult to get a socket on there. So I used a hammer and modded that portion of the tunnel to allow enough space for a socket to get on the bolt. Unfortunately, the bell housing and clutch have to be out in order to do that. So removing it for the first time will be a biatch.
That's what I was thinking. The top bolt is kicking my *** hard. Almost got it though. Hoping that **** isn't broken everywhere on the inside. I'll post pics when the Trans is out!
Trans is out. The T/O bearing got so destroyed it vanished to dust. However the clutch and flywheel are 100% fine. But I'm probably gonna replace the clutch anyways. pics are uploading. I'll show yall the trashed T/O bearing.
Got it out yesterday afternoon. Gonna gunk it and clean it up a bit. Ordering a clutch set tomorrow (since it's payday wooh!) now being the dumbass I am I forgot to put a rag in the tail shaft of the transmission and every bit of transmission fluid drained out on my garage floor... This thing takes DEX III correct?
Trans is out. The T/O bearing got so destroyed it vanished to dust. However the clutch and flywheel are 100% fine. But I'm probably gonna replace the clutch anyways. pics are uploading. I'll show yall the trashed T/O bearing.
Good call. Better than having to do this entire procedure again in a few weeks if something else goes out.
Originally Posted by VoyagerCamaro
Trans is out.
Got it out yesterday afternoon. Gonna gunk it and clean it up a bit. Ordering a clutch set tomorrow (since it's payday wooh!) now being the dumbass I am I forgot to put a rag in the tail shaft of the transmission and every bit of transmission fluid drained out on my garage floor... This thing takes DEX III correct?
We've all been there! Proper use of the kitty litter, though.
Does anybody know what relay I need for the fans?? The coolant fan #1 and #3 relay are there, just not coolant fan #3. Will just a typical one from the parts store work or is there anything special I need? Oh and also to add, if anyone has a black manual passenger side mirror, send me a PM!
Last edited by VoyagerCamaro; 03-26-2016 at 08:30 PM.
03-22-2016, 05:12 AM
