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This last Friday at Qualcomm Stadium. Convertible with no weight reduction running 27 inch Hoosiers. 57 year old driver that can't do a decent burn-out.
Best time (9.00) was chasing a built 2007 Z06
Fastest speed (82) was beating a new Dodge Challenger with drag radials
Had about 20 runs and averaged around 9.1. Must have missed my 2-3 shift like 5 times. Had a great time. Need tons more practice if I want to get any better at this.
Have never driven the car that hard - surprised on the abuse it can take.
What RPM are you shifting at? That MPH seems very very low. Should be at least 90 for your mods. Glad you had fun, careful as its a slippery slope when you get addicted!
What RPM are you shifting at? That MPH seems very very low. Should be at least 90 for your mods. Glad you had fun, careful as its a slippery slope when you get addicted!
Hot lapping + weather couldve attributed to that. And I think since its a track in a parking lot the mph traps arent accurate distance apart at the finish.
Hot lapping + weather couldve attributed to that. And I think since its a track in a parking lot the mph traps arent accurate distance apart at the finish.
Your first time out launching a manual on an unprepped track may have a lot to do with your times. Just know if you are wanting to frequent the track more often that is prepped you will eventually break your 10-bolt.
How are you letting your clutch out when you launch?
What RPM are you shifting at? That MPH seems very very low. Should be at least 90 for your mods. Glad you had fun, careful as its a slippery slope when you get addicted!
Your first time out launching a manual on an unprepped track may have a lot to do with your times. Just know if you are wanting to frequent the track more often that is prepped you will eventually break your 10-bolt.
How are you letting your clutch out when you launch?
Tried to keep the RPMs at 3000 and dumped the clutch. Had too much air in my tires my first couple of runs and spun the tires quite a bit.
A. Your launch is going to murder your 10 bolt and not give best times. You want to bring it up to 2000rpm, then kind of bog the motor and launch, letting the torque pull you out. When you go to launch, let the clutch out a touch to get some preload on your rear end, then floor it and control the clutch to bog it and hold around 2000rpm, not feathering the clutch, more of a controlled dump that allows the rpms to not rise even at full throttle, you want to end up with the clutch out but still at 2000 rpm and let the motor do the work. This will eliminate wheel spin, and leave a linear force on the rear end and tires, and you should get down to about a 1.9-20 60'.
2. Shift higher. Go at least until the tach just goes past 6000, best times in a stock long block with long tubes and intake is shifting at 6300, but the tach isn't really clear since it's all red at 6000 so shift after the needle passes 6000.
D. Powershifting/speed shifting. You'll need to practice on the street a bit, starting with shifting while only withdrawing the throttle to 25%, then once that's mastered, 50%, then 75, then 100% wide open throttle shifts. To help shift faster, hold your hand on the shifter, putting a tiny bit of force pushing it towards the next gear, not enough to move it when you don't want to shift yet, but a tiny bit of force. When you go to shift, stab the clutch as fast as you can, and as soon as the clutch engages, you'll feel the shifter get released with your small amount of force you had on the shifter. Follow through with as much speed in that hand as you can, and once you feel your hand starting to move, you should already start retracting the clutch. By the time your hand says to your brain "ok I'm moving", and your brain then tells your left foot "start coming up foot", your hand will have made it to the next gear. There should end up with zero pause in the motion of your left foot, 1 fluid motion stabbing it to the floor then retracting immediately. Done right, and the nose of the car won't even fall an inch. If you can get your shifts fast enough, when power shifting your rpms won't increase, it'll hit the next gear so fast that even at 100% throttle you won't increase rpms, and you'll keep momentum up after shifts.
A. Your launch is going to murder your 10 bolt and not give best times. You want to bring it up to 2000rpm, then kind of bog the motor and launch, letting the torque pull you out. When you go to launch, let the clutch out a touch to get some preload on your rear end, then floor it and control the clutch to bog it and hold around 2000rpm, not feathering the clutch, more of a controlled dump that allows the rpms to not rise even at full throttle, you want to end up with the clutch out but still at 2000 rpm and let the motor do the work. This will eliminate wheel spin, and leave a linear force on the rear end and tires, and you should get down to about a 1.9-20 60'.
2. Shift higher. Go at least until the tach just goes past 6000, best times in a stock long block with long tubes and intake is shifting at 6300, but the tach isn't really clear since it's all red at 6000 so shift after the needle passes 6000.
D. Powershifting/speed shifting. You'll need to practice on the street a bit, starting with shifting while only withdrawing the throttle to 25%, then once that's mastered, 50%, then 75, then 100% wide open throttle shifts. To help shift faster, hold your hand on the shifter, putting a tiny bit of force pushing it towards the next gear, not enough to move it when you don't want to shift yet, but a tiny bit of force. When you go to shift, stab the clutch as fast as you can, and as soon as the clutch engages, you'll feel the shifter get released with your small amount of force you had on the shifter. Follow through with as much speed in that hand as you can, and once you feel your hand starting to move, you should already start retracting the clutch. By the time your hand says to your brain "ok I'm moving", and your brain then tells your left foot "start coming up foot", your hand will have made it to the next gear. There should end up with zero pause in the motion of your left foot, 1 fluid motion stabbing it to the floor then retracting immediately. Done right, and the nose of the car won't even fall an inch. If you can get your shifts fast enough, when power shifting your rpms won't increase, it'll hit the next gear so fast that even at 100% throttle you won't increase rpms, and you'll keep momentum up after shifts.
Thank you very much for the detailed advise. I am looking forward to getting back to the track. Sounds like my POS NAPA replacement throw out bearing is starting to go out again. I may be replacing it soon.
Yeah. If want to launch effectively go with a bias ply 26" if you want stock gears. The walls are softer and will absorb more shock from the driveline and your differential may live a little longer.
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First time on 1/8 mile track 
