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I hope that eagle rotating assembly doesn't include their cast crank. I'd personally never buy a car with a built motor using eagle components, not only because I think their products are inferior but also because it makes you wonder where else the person cheaped out during their build. I've seen an eagle cast crank break in half in a 383 LT1 with ported heads and mild cam. Lots of people over here have complained about similar occurances over the years. Just something to be aware of.
I can see ~380 to the wheels through a manual, but more importantly it should have no problem being a mid 11 car if you can drive it.
People will surely start trying to tear the car apart on here but the truth is, if you got a running 383 stroker with LE2's and a 12bolt for $6k then you got a great deal either way, even if it does need a bit of tweaking to make the power/ET you want. A quick dyno session would only cost you $40-50 and let you know not only how much power it really makes, but how close the tune it.
I can see ~380 to the wheels through a manual, but more importantly it should have no problem being a mid 11 car if you can drive it.
People will surely start trying to tear the car apart on here but the truth is,if you got a running 383 stroker with LE2's and a 12bolt for $6k then you got a great deal either way, even if it does need a bit of tweaking to make the power/ET you want. A quick dyno session would only cost you $40-50 and let you know not only how much power it really makes, but how close the tune it.
Dyno numbers mean nothing, they vary so much from dyno to dyno, 1/4 mile trap speed knowing weight tells the best story of power.
.Personally, if its a second car I would verify the valve springs with LE to throw a bigger cam in there and retune it, could make another 30+hp for less then a grand after tune...but if its a driver then its already PLENTY of car for what you'd usually run into on the street.
Wish I could find a deal like that around here, I'd get it for a backup daily in a heartbeat.
I verify that if made 750HP with no rocker arms installed

Seriously.....a Comp 503 cam ain't got the 'legs' for 500+ HP.
Jus' sayin'.....
KW
you would need to have LT4 heads to work with your LT4 intake manifold...so unless you did a typo...something wrong there
While the "shop" may have some dyno sheet showing "A" engine made 500 FWHP....the cam you have, 503, won't get you there and if the "shop" is claiming that dyno sheet is for your motor...I would ? everything else they say.
Other than a mismatch of LT1 heads with a LT4 manifold (if that is what you have) the 503 is not a bad cam, just not the most HP one you could have if that is a concern.
Do whatever maintenance you need and run it at a track. 1/4 mi times is a good indicator of HP
I can see ~380 to the wheels through a manual, but more importantly it should have no problem being a mid 11 car if you can drive it.
People will surely start trying to tear the car apart on here but the truth is, if you got a running 383 stroker with LE2's and a 12bolt for $6k then you got a great deal either way, even if it does need a bit of tweaking to make the power/ET you want. A quick dyno session would only cost you $40-50 and let you know not only how much power it really makes, but how close the tune it.

Don't be mad, thats still a quick street car and you got a hell of a deal!







