Hi I'm new to this forum. I just purchased a 96 trans am. It's a 383 ci lt1 LE2 Heads, cc503 cam, 1.6 roller rockers, ported Edelbrock LT4 intake, BBK 58 mm throttle body, CAI, jet hot long tube headers, 12 bolt 4:10 rear gear Corvette C5 wheels, 255's upfront, 305-35-18 ET streets out back. Just bought the car, was told made 450 rear wheel hp. I just want to know if that sounds about right? And does anyone have any idea on 1/4 mile times.

 

Someone told me they've been on this forum for years and it's the best information. Seems like times have changed.

 

If it has a 6 speed it probably makes around 370-380rwhp. ET will depend on how well you drive it but mph is likely between 115-117mph.

 

Doubt it with a cc503 cam, id say high 300s

 

Do you know what crank is in it? Or any details or receipts from the bottom end? That's a good start, the 12 bolt, jet hot LTs and LE2s are good clues the PO knew what he was doing, but you should make sure it's not an Eagle cast crank and find out who did the tune. Then take it to the track and weigh it and see what it traps to find out really how much power it's making. I highly doubt 450 to the tires unless it was a very happy dyno.

 

Thanks for responding! yes it is an eagle rotating assembly. I paid 6 grand for this car and had it shipped to my home. It was built by DC Automotive Machine. I havent been home to get the engine stamp off it to verify. But strangely he has a high 440's rwhp dyno sheet. Just crazy ive been saving for a car all these years and was originally supposed to buy an LS but told this was a mid 11 second car.

 

You actually don't know anything about the engine internals unless you've either bought them yourself and had them installed, or had the pan off and taken a look to verify.

 

No.

KW

 

That cc503 cam is small for a 383. I'm thinking she's putting out in the high 300's at the tire. I think the car would be lucky to break 400rwhp. Car is capable of 11's all day long with a good driver.

I hope that eagle rotating assembly doesn't include their cast crank. I'd personally never buy a car with a built motor using eagle components, not only because I think their products are inferior but also because it makes you wonder where else the person cheaped out during their build. I've seen an eagle cast crank break in half in a 383 LT1 with ported heads and mild cam. Lots of people over here have complained about similar occurances over the years. Just something to be aware of.

 

Doesn't need to be 450rwhp to be an 11 second car.

I can see ~380 to the wheels through a manual, but more importantly it should have no problem being a mid 11 car if you can drive it.

People will surely start trying to tear the car apart on here but the truth is, if you got a running 383 stroker with LE2's and a 12bolt for $6k then you got a great deal either way, even if it does need a bit of tweaking to make the power/ET you want. A quick dyno session would only cost you $40-50 and let you know not only how much power it really makes, but how close the tune it.

 

Very true.

 

On the upside, that 383 would probably pass smog everywhere provided its got all the smog parts.

 

Regardless of what the car makes assuming everything's in good working condition you got a good deal. The drive train alone is worth around $3-4K.

 

The only fear is if it's an eagle CAST crank and he sold it before it broke. If dig through any receipts you have, maybe call the shop, track down the PO and ask. If the crank snaps at the front like they seem to always do (at least the ones with cranks built in the last 8 or so years) then you would be looking at needing a new crank, block and whatever else it takes out with it. If it's an eagle FORGED crank, you are golden and got a steal. Even still, the 12 bolt is $2500, the heads are $1500, and the 6 speed is $1200, you got a good deal. I would really try to verify the crank though, they have been known to break idling through a parking lot even.

Dyno numbers mean nothing, they vary so much from dyno to dyno, 1/4 mile trap speed knowing weight tells the best story of power.

 

Thanks everyone. The good news is that it's an Eagle FORGED crank. Found the number stamped on the block. It was built by DC Automotive Machine in Rockford, IL. They built it about a year ago. They verified that the engine tested at 500+ hp at the fly wheel.

 

Awesome job then .

Personally, if its a second car I would verify the valve springs with LE to throw a bigger cam in there and retune it, could make another 30+hp for less then a grand after tune...but if its a driver then its already PLENTY of car for what you'd usually run into on the street.

Wish I could find a deal like that around here, I'd get it for a backup daily in a heartbeat.

 

I built an engine last month.
I verify that if made 750HP with no rocker arms installed
Seriously.....a Comp 503 cam ain't got the 'legs' for 500+ HP.

Jus' sayin'.....

KW

 

OP

you would need to have LT4 heads to work with your LT4 intake manifold...so unless you did a typo...something wrong there

While the "shop" may have some dyno sheet showing "A" engine made 500 FWHP....the cam you have, 503, won't get you there and if the "shop" is claiming that dyno sheet is for your motor...I would ? everything else they say.

Other than a mismatch of LT1 heads with a LT4 manifold (if that is what you have) the 503 is not a bad cam, just not the most HP one you could have if that is a concern.

Do whatever maintenance you need and run it at a track. 1/4 mi times is a good indicator of HP

 

So pissed. Called Finish Line Performance where car was tuned. Car only made 384 rwhp

 

Don't be mad, thats still a quick street car and you got a hell of a deal!