'96 LT1 24x low idle after hard pull
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'96 LT1 24x low idle after hard pull
The old 'bird has an issue I've been trying to nail down and was hoping for some help on. Some details; she has H/C/I, full bolt-ons, rebuilt lower end w/ stock crank and a 24x conversion.
After a hard pull she does not like to idle correctly. The idle drops to about 4-600 and starts to chug, lights go dim etc UNTIL I come to a complete stop, then the issue corrects itself until I'm moving again or shut the car down for a while.
As I said If I turn the car off and leave it off for a half hour or so the problem seems to reset itself. It also has thrown a code for the MAP sensor which I have since pulled and cleaned.
Any ideas what this is? A faulty MAP sensor? I love my bird but I am f-ing selling this car after I nail this issue down.
After a hard pull she does not like to idle correctly. The idle drops to about 4-600 and starts to chug, lights go dim etc UNTIL I come to a complete stop, then the issue corrects itself until I'm moving again or shut the car down for a while.
As I said If I turn the car off and leave it off for a half hour or so the problem seems to reset itself. It also has thrown a code for the MAP sensor which I have since pulled and cleaned.
Any ideas what this is? A faulty MAP sensor? I love my bird but I am f-ing selling this car after I nail this issue down.
#2
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have eficonnections 24x swapped lt1 with the same issue.
After hard runs it will drop idle while rolling. Usually comes up when it's at a full stop.
It's in the tune somewhere as far as I can tell
After hard runs it will drop idle while rolling. Usually comes up when it's at a full stop.
It's in the tune somewhere as far as I can tell
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not happy to hear you have the same issue as well as the same 24x conversion I have. The cam in this car is rather large and the tuner I used specializes more in imports so this car kind of kicked his *** a bit. It's decently well tuned but there is a bit to be desired.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? Again it popped a MAP sensor code for me after a while.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? Again it popped a MAP sensor code for me after a while.
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
so this wasn't happening before 24x? how long do these hard pulls last? if you don't come to a complete stop, will it idle poorly forever or eventually fix itself? if you shut the car down then immediately start it back up, that won't fix it? it has to be at least 30 minutes? I think the MAP code is more a response to the low idle and not a cause of anything. The car performs fine in all other conditions correct? cruises fine, accelerates fine etc? sounds like your tuner needs to dial in the throttle cracker and follower tables (and possibly more) or he has your cars transmission wrong. what kind of trans is it?
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so this wasn't happening before 24x? how long do these hard pulls last? if you don't come to a complete stop, will it idle poorly forever or eventually fix itself? if you shut the car down then immediately start it back up, that won't fix it? it has to be at least 30 minutes? I think the MAP code is more a response to the low idle and not a cause of anything. The car performs fine in all other conditions correct? cruises fine, accelerates fine etc? sounds like your tuner needs to dial in the throttle cracker and follower tables (and possibly more) or he has your cars transmission wrong. what kind of trans is it?
I was not able to erase the MAP sensor code, it never went away after it appeared even post cleaning. No underdrive pulley but it does have an alt relocation kit that deleted A/C. TB is aftermarket dual 58mm.
#7
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I as well have an aftermarket 58mm BBK throttle body. I have modified the back of it as well to resemble the factory throttle body with the plenum air and iac air being separated.
My car seems to run decent once it's hot. But when it's cold if I rev it up it will idle lean (as per wideband) and idle shitty then eventually just clear up.
If I drive it hard before its fully warmed up. With clutch in and rolling to a stop it will chug and idle low until it fully stops. As soon as it comes to a complete stop the idle bounces back up
My car seems to run decent once it's hot. But when it's cold if I rev it up it will idle lean (as per wideband) and idle shitty then eventually just clear up.
If I drive it hard before its fully warmed up. With clutch in and rolling to a stop it will chug and idle low until it fully stops. As soon as it comes to a complete stop the idle bounces back up
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Not sure what program your tuner uses but on hptuners I'd be checking throttle follower, throttle cracker, rolling idle, base idle airflow, and trans type. The fact that it goes away when turning the car off has me thinking that MAYBE this isn't PCM related. Did you repin your harness or buy a new one for 24x?
#10
TECH Regular
iTrader: (10)
My car does the exact same thing, kind of annoying. I really don't drive it hard enough on the street to notice it but at the drag strip when rolling up to the time slip shack after a run it wants to die from low idle. Just as described above once it comes to a complete stop it instantly corrects it's self and will drive/idle fine again. My car runs great otherwise, pulls hard and smooth, cruises great ect. I need to go back to my tuner to update for the 4.30 gears and would like to have this issue fixed as well. I know my tuner does mostly American V8's and uses HP tuners so if anyone has any suggestions that I can take with me to the tuner that would be helpful.
#11
TECH Resident
You need to figure out what is causing the MAP code. if something is wrong with the MAP sensor or it's input to the PCM, then drivability issues will certainly follow.
What is the PXXXX number the PCM is throwing?
What is the PXXXX number the PCM is throwing?
#12
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The P code was P0107, specifically for the MAP sensor. I'm thinking I might replace it just to tick that off the list since it's only about 40 bucks.
My tuner was using HPTuners and had never worked with a 24x LT1 before so it left a little to be desired. As far as the harness it was new so it must be in the tune or the MAP sensor itself which is far less likely... from what I understand these units are actually built to last unlike most everything else on these cars lol.
My tuner was using HPTuners and had never worked with a 24x LT1 before so it left a little to be desired. As far as the harness it was new so it must be in the tune or the MAP sensor itself which is far less likely... from what I understand these units are actually built to last unlike most everything else on these cars lol.
#14
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
The reason you are throwing a map code is because of the low idle, LT's with healthy cams will throw a map code if when started its immediately at the desired idle, this is why with large cams, even moderate ones, I will have the cold start up at a high idle in order to prevent a map code.