Do the head bolt holes on the 96 lt1 block open into the oil pan area? Or do they open into the coolant passages. I need help prepping my block so i can put my heads back on. I am paranoid about getting debris into the oil pan. Not to worried about coolant passages though. Any advise. Here are some pics..............i was thinking a razor blade on the block with a shop vac. And a fine wire brush on the pistons to remove carbon.

 

Water jackets. I have a battery corrosion brush that works in the head bolt holes that I use with a shop vac. Keep as much debris out of the water jackets as you can. The two end middle bolts on the front and back of the block do not tap into anything so do not use sealant on them, but rather a very light touch of oil.

 

Do one cylinder at a time with that one being on TDC, Brake clean and a hand held wire brush work well, be careful with the razor blade, they can score aluminum. I use sealer on all the bolts just to keep the torque the same. ARP lube under the heads of the bolts or motor oil. Flush the block prior to running to remove contaminants from it. Run it in (I assume to break in the new cam) then change the oil and filter if you are concerened about oil contaminants. There are lots of ways to do this, this is mine...

 

After looking at the pictures it sure looks like there is excess carbon build up, could be you need to replace the valve stem oil seals and or the PCv valve. Is it using oil?

 

Thanks for the help! Im getting the heads resurfaced and a 3 angle valve job done with new valve seals. I will also check the pvc valve. Any chemicals that can harm the rings? I heard wd 40 isnt good for rings.

 

Any product with a petroleum base should be ok, beware mag wheel cleaners , they have acid in them and can harm the rings. Blow clean with air and you should be fine. WD-40 is a pretty good solvent and moisture displacing product, shouldn't hurt your rings.

 

It is worth picking up a set of chasing taps. Can't beat them for the price and you will use them more than you think.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900200

I was really careful when I did my heads and cam in the car and still had all kinds of goodies in the oil filter. Definitely change your oil and filter a few times after you get it running.

When you get all the gasket material and carbon off use some acetone to make sure the block deck is squeaky clean. Good luck!

 

Your about two weeks ahead of me doing the same job. I pulled the engine out since mine is in a 34 Ford and it was easier to pull out than work over the wide fenders. I had planned on pulling the oil pan after clean up just to clean anything out, and take the opportunity to replace the oil pan gasket with a new one piece Felpro gasket since it looks like mine is leaking. Did you get your cam issue fixed?

 

Thanks for all the info, i will pick up some taps, and make sure the deck is squeaky clean. My cam has been sent back to comp cams this week, haven't heard anything yet. Should get my heads back next week, 3 angle valve job, new springs, and milled.

 

Roller cams and roller lifters do not require any break-in

 

True, but there are lots more moving parts than just the cam and lifters. Point was , change the oil soon after going into the engine to make sure you get most of the debris left from cleaning, assembling etc.

 

and if you don't have one, use a magnetic tip oil drain plug....you will be surprised at all the "hair" on it after head/cam swap. I would drain oil after a full heat cycle engine run after the cam install. for getting out what debris may have been introduced into the motor and purge the cam/assembly lube from the oil

 

And for the love of all things holy and righteous, use a clean shop towel to cover the end of the oil pan when the timing cover is off. If you don't the pan acts like a giant catch all and you'll have all kinds of unwanted crap in the pan in no time.

 

Lmao ss rrr! I will def keep that oil pan covered. Can i change the oil pan gasket with just loosening the bolts? Or should i just wing it, and put some extra rtv on and pray it doesnt leek.

 

Are you talking about how it infamously tears when taking the timing cover off? That happened to me and I applied black RTV inbetween the tear and on the block and pan where the tear was, bolted it up and let it dry for a good day before starting the car. If you want to replace the gasket then I would just clean the **** out of the pan and surrounding areas and slide the gasket into place from the outside of the pan.