ShovelMan

Google is not helping, people on forums aren't helping. I need a diagram of some sort and a video showing how to remove the hub. I got the pulley off but the hub is still intact onto the crankshaft. For future reference, the pulley i'm referring to is circular. The hub I'm referring to has the three holes where the pulley (circular) bolts onto.


I read people using 2x4 but no pictures on how to do so.


The ones with pictures were hosted on photobucket and not many people use photobucket anymore. Pictures were removed and accounts have been deactivated.

shbox

The very first image I got with a Google search resulted in this page:

http://diysrc.com/remove-and-install...ub-and-pulley/

ShovelMan

Thank you for still being active shoebox! Your website is the best!


I will try that method. I just don't want to ruin the thread (I don't know what the technical term is called. De-thread?)

ShovelMan

Tried it that way and the hub threads have been ruined/de-threaded. Where to buy another hub ASAP?

smitty2919

If you ruined any threads, you screwed up the crankshaft...the hub itself is only a press fit. Try a thread chaser to clean them up again and hope you don't need a new crank.

NewOrleansLT1

I used a big three jaw puller..

smitty2919

Harbor Freight sells a 3 pack 3-jaw puller. Big, medium and small.

cookseyb

Threads are 7/16-20, get a tap and re-thread them. I have a shorter bolt with out the washer that i use to screw in the crank. This protects the threads and gives something to push against. It sounds like you need to get some help from someone just a tad more mechanically inclined. FWIW the crank shaft re conditioning folks wont take a crank with the threads messed up.

cookseyb

The term you are looking for regarding the threads is "cross threaded"

shbox

This does not protect the threads. It puts all the force of pushing right on them. The proper thing to push against does not involve the threads at all (like the hardened rod that comes with the GM approved Kent-Moore LT1 puller). You don't want to push on anything threaded into the crank nose or you risk thread damage.

cookseyb

Actually it does, the shorter bolt is threaded against the shoulder solid and I drilled a center hole in it in the lathe, if it is threaded more than than one bolt diameter it is as good as solid and no thread damage will occur. The crank is nodular iron and plenty strong vs. cast to do this. It ain't your way but it's mine and it works...

shbox

I can't make sense of what you wrote. If you used a longer bolt (not shorter) with a tapered end, so it would not jam and bottomed it out against the inside nose of the crank, that might be ok. A shorter bolt would only make less thread contact and more chance of stripping threads.

It's not my way, it is the GM approved way to prevent potential problems.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Are you saying you enlarged the hole on the hub so you could bottom out a bolt onto the crank snout?

elis94camaro

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...89711/10002/-1 would this tool work similar to the Kent Moore one?

cookseyb

Sorry for the confusion, I used a LONGER bolt with a center drilled in it(so the puller wouldn't walk off) and a three jaw puller. By the way the threads are used to install the hub back on, where most folks get in trouble trying to install the hub is using the retainer bolt to pull the hub on! Won't WORK! my tool threads into the snout of the crank then it has a larger threaded all thread rod, 3/4 I think, with several washers and a ball bearing and nut to push it back on. FWIW..