Oil pump gear drive
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Oil pump gear drive Well today I was installing the oil pump drive unit and the#%%$#@^% plastic hold down tab broke is there a fix for this or just order a new one? I was just pondering getting the oil off it and JB welding a washer to it and locktiteing the bolt down, I can't believe 13 ft. lbs of torque broke this thing! I guess 20+ years of heat cycles just made it brittle. Anyone else have this issue/ Thanks 
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the tq on a old brittle plastic can crack it. do not JB weld it. Go buy a new one at dealership. About $80
When I put my new one on I didn't TQ to 13 ft lbs, just "snug" by hand with a 1/4" drive socket and used loc-tite on the small bolt
When I put my new one on I didn't TQ to 13 ft lbs, just "snug" by hand with a 1/4" drive socket and used loc-tite on the small bolt
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From: Central Texas
Got one on the way from Tick performance, 80 bucks plus shipping. couldn't find one on GMPP, some dude on fleabay wanted 150 bucks for a new one!!, What pisses me off is My drive gear is like new.. Gonna play around on the mill and see if I can make a strong back for it, if that POS came loose under load it could leave a big mess. Thanks for the tip.
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Also if you look close the tab is not 90 degrees from the body! Why I have no clue, I'm gonna get the protractor out and measure it. where the bolt goes through is at an angle too! It had to cost alot just to make this ONE piece and they chose a composite. Looks like Micarta or some such material. No wonder GM went broke....
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there was a after market billet "cap" that went over the gear but IDK if that is still available
you can use a washer that fills the recess in the plastic top then another larger one over that so the clamp load of the small bolt is over a larger part of the top
just don't over TQ that bolt and 13 ft lbs is more than I go on it even though that is spec. just use some loc-tite on the bolt and make in "snug" with a 1/4" drive socket
you can use a washer that fills the recess in the plastic top then another larger one over that so the clamp load of the small bolt is over a larger part of the top
just don't over TQ that bolt and 13 ft lbs is more than I go on it even though that is spec. just use some loc-tite on the bolt and make in "snug" with a 1/4" drive socket
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Because GM did not design it in mind to be taken on and off for the life of the engine. It also helped with the total cost of these cars being cheapest, most powerful muscle car of its time. Also, there is virtually no load on them so there really was no need to make them out of any other material.
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From: Central Texas
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I looked there but I just ordered one from GMPP 50 bucks but nearly 18 bucks for shipping. Kinda sucks living so far from a major town...I hope it don't get back ordered. I hate to buy a used one, but it might come to that..I hope my Impala SS never breaks down getting parts for the LT1's is getting to be a PITA, if I can find a good clean take out I think I will buy it just too be safe.. Thanks all for your help
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From: Central Texas
I looked there but I just ordered one from GMPP 50 bucks but nearly 18 bucks for shipping. Kinda sucks living so far from a major town...I hope it don't get back ordered. I hate to buy a used one, but it might come to that..I hope my Impala SS never breaks down getting parts for the LT1's is getting to be a PITA, if I can find a good clean take out I think I will buy it just too be safe.. Thanks all for your help
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FWIW I bought mine at a local Buick dealership (Roadmaster had LT1's). often the parts guy will do a search if they don't have one which is my case is what directed me to the Buick dealership...just a few dealerships down on the same road from the Chevy one.
I doubt they are made anymore so it is down to NOS
I doubt they are made anymore so it is down to NOS
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My dealer sells Buick and Chevrolet. Old parts guy retired new guy only knows what the computer tells him and his "give a *******" is disconnected. I still got a option or two I'm looking at. Plus if push comes to shove my repair looks stronger than stock...
