LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 Crank snout

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Old 02-19-2017, 09:25 PM
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Default LT1 Crank snout

OK, I'm getting a 383 rotating assembly and they don't offer an LT1 specific crank so do I need to have my LT1 balancer hub machined and a pin/key slot put in or will it fit real well on the end of a traditional sbc crank snout?

I only ask because my understanding is that the LT1 crank snout is almost cone shaped so that when the balancer hub is bolted down it tightens up. (Like pipe thread) So based on that info having a "square/straight" crank snout going into a very very mild cone shaped balancer hub it wouldn't seat completely or you would really have to torque the bolt big time to force it on.

Maybe I'm wrong? Please enlighten me.
Old 02-19-2017, 09:43 PM
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I thought all of the aftermarket snouts were interference fit as well. If not, JEGS/Pioneer makes a billet keyed LT1 hub that's only $80.
Old 02-19-2017, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Catmaigne
I thought all of the aftermarket snouts were interference fit as well. If not, JEGS/Pioneer makes a billet keyed LT1 hub that's only $80.
I assumed all SBC were that fit as well I just wasn't sure if the LT1 used a tighter fit due to not having a keyed hub.
Old 02-20-2017, 01:37 AM
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On a little bit of a side note I called a machine shop to ask about what they charged to clearance a block and I told him it was an LT1, etc. and he said that it did not need clearancing to go 383. He claimed the newer blocks are thinner than the old 350 blocks so they don't need clearancing. I'm a little skeptical to go there now because of that. I have heard of certain cylinders not needing any clearancing but not needing ANY...idk about that....
Old 02-20-2017, 10:48 AM
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That's not true. The pan rails will interfere with the rod bolts and will need to be clearanced. Depending on what rod bolt you go with will dictate how much clearancing is needed. I cannot for the life of me remember what rod bolts I have. They came with the Compstar rods, which I believe are now defunct. Depending on what ignition you are going with as well as timing chain and if you are going to use a reluctor wheel for the OBDII style misfire sensor, you need to get the correct size hub that will accommodate.
Old 02-20-2017, 02:07 PM
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Just make sure it is a one-piece seal crank and you are good to go. LT1 and 87+ SBC rotating assemblies are interchangeable.
Old 02-21-2017, 02:05 PM
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You can always have the crank hub keyed and then this won't be a problem. That's what I'm having done with my stroker motor. Crank is a Scat forged crank.
Old 02-21-2017, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Snow Dog
You can always have the crank hub keyed and then this won't be a problem. That's what I'm having done with my stroker motor. Crank is a Scat forged crank.
True, I'll have to look into it.



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