camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Well I picked up this car, for $3500.00







As you can see from the dyno sheet, it was built quite a long time ago. It has a fully forged Golen 383 in it and a D1SC. Supposedly AFR LT4 heads. Oddly enough though car has what appears to be a completely stock 10 bolt under it, although it does also have a 4l60e. I'm guessing it has probably never had a sticky tire under it...

The motor and procharger are going into my 94 hardtop car with the T56.


So now one of the questions I have. It has the two smaller intercoolers. Who has switched to one large front mount, and if you did, what if any was the power increase? Obviously I'm at the point where it is already all setup, so I wouldn't have to mess with it. So I am wondering how much, if any is the benefit?

I have no idea what size pulley is on it at the moment. My understanding is the D1SC's limit is 15 lbs?? Does it happily make that though, or is that pushing it?

What is the average cost for meth injection? I am thinking that is probably something worth doing?

Car currently has 44 lb injectors and my motor guy looked at the dyno sheets and said oh yeah that was realllllly pushing it, so obviously I am going to move up to 58-60 lb. injectors. I am thinking of replacing my single 255lph Walbro with the 340lph? Or how much rwhp can the singe 255lph Walbro with Racetronix harness support?

The golen motor currently has 1.52 comp cams roller rockers on it, would it be worth it to swap on my 1.6 comp cams ultra pro mags??

I have got to get working, that is all I know. The 95 convertible also has a Bigstuff3 ECU and TCI trans controller, I intend to sell those items. I have already picked up a stock LT1 to put in the convertible, and am on the hunt for a complete LT1 engine/trans harness and stock PCM. I plan to get the convertible sold, then the fairly stock second hardtop car I have in the garage currently. Get my inside work space back before I do my actual car. I never thought I would have THREE LT1 Z28s in my life at once, I need to get back down to one!

I intend to swap my 24x setup from my current motor to the Golen motor, and bag my current motor as a backup. Some may remember I had put dished pistons in it during the last rebuild to get ready for boost, and this fell on my lap! Hard to believe it sat on Craigslist for over a month, did anyone on here look at this car and walk away from it???

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

Those numbers are great for 2003! You can get a good Meth setup pretty cheap, Check out Snow performance Meth kits, they have different options depending on what you want.. I run meth on my intercooled supercharged setup.

But since it was built like 15 years ago, I would run through the bottom end of the motor. After that if PTV isn't an issue then sure, swap the 1.6 pro mags over.

BALLSS

IMHO I would just transplant the motor as is along with whatever fueling system it has if bigger than your hard top car. The HP/Tq #'s are very good and I doubt, for the expense, the $ per HP gain from any additional mods would be worth it. Assuming the dyno sheet is for that car....the #'s are very good and the 13 year lifespan would suggest the build was also.

I would pull pan and the main & rod caps for a look before install

The 1.52 RR may be because of cam installed so confirm piston to valve clearance is good if you are going 1:6 and the valve springs will handle that increased lift. Also if that build has more than 20k mi on it....I would consider replacing the springs..or at least check them for pressure open and seat heights.

and a T56 behind that motor with clutch dumps is going to explode the stock rear end...IDK what the hard top car has in that area but I would spend $ on rear end/suspension before further modding motor. get a twin disc clutch, McLeod Street Twin

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Car already has a Street Twin, with the steel flywheel and a Moser 12 bolt/3.5" Denny's driveshaft. All suspension parts have been replaced. Although I have heard putting spherical rod ends on one side of the LCAs is good? I think the current poly bushing ends can be screwed out, I'll have to check on that some day.

I am really not sure how many miles are on the motor. The car itself only has 86k miles. I'm thinking I should call Golen and see what they tell me in regards to PTV clearance and also get their oil recommendation.

Here is the build sheet for the motor:


I may have to contact EFI Connections, I wonder if they used different cam/crank sensors on a LT4 timing set from the LT1 setup?

The convertible has the same fuel system I have, actually it might not even have a hotwire kit. I did see where they installed a 255lph pump and it is on stock fuel lines. An Aeromotive adjustable FPR was installed on the car in 2007, due to the stock one leaking from what I can see. I got very lucky, all of the car's paperwork is here.

So is the single 255lph pump with Racetronix harness enough? The injectors definitely need upgrading, my motor guy here was not happy to see 12.8:1 afr in the charts with the 44 lb injectors.

BALLSS

12:8 is on the thin side for AFR...larger injectors would require a new tune

if FP holds at high rpm's with the donor 255 and your 255 than the pump is putting out enough fuel so injector size would be the reason for the lower AFR than ideal. If however fuel pressure starts to fade as you climb past 5k rpm than the fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel and leaning out the AFR

Cam looks mild enough to support 1:6 rr. Lift is not real high

I would check the valve springs though...they are "wear" items with larger aftermarket cams.

typically Chad sets up the bearing clearances slightly wider and calls out 20-50 oil. That is how my 11 year old Golen 383 is. Email him, he likely has the file of that motor.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

The first WTF? moment has been had with this car.

I had cleaned the fuel injectors last week, after my friend confirmed they were firing off he sent me home with the little box to pulse them, and I ran carb cleaner through them followed by a little pressurized air.

So today I put the injectors back in and look at the rail. What the? The fuel line was just dangling there. The retaining clip was missing! The picture below is after I reinserted the fuel line. Thankfully I did just buy a stock motor to put in the convertible, so I bummed the retaining clip off that one for now...



Replacing the fuel filter today and thankfully the car only has like 3 gallons of fuel in it. I'm going to get some fresh fuel and Stabil in the tank of this thing.

I hope the motor I got to stab in this thing has a good A/C compressor. It looks like it was a replacement compressor. While going through the vehicle's documentation it was revealed the compressor had seized on the convertible in 2016, and instead of a new compressor they elected to put a pulley in it's place. A bit ridiculous as it is FL and someone only 2 years prior had paid almost $12k for the car...

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Thats quite the steal man, grats!

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I got the fuel filter replaced, and observed a boost a pump. So not sure if it is a 255lph booster pump with a stock in the tank, or if the tank one was replaced and the booster pump.


Doesn't really matter, on my car I will likely seek out a single 340lph, I think will be my plan.

I spotted one aftermarket suspension piece, I believe. I never had a convertible before but this was here:



It has a bracket that hugs the tunnel there? I've not seen one like this before. Anyone have any idea who makes it?

Next up is the inlet tubing going to the Procharger, is this the original piece? Is that normally how it would be setup? It is running to a huge cone style filter in the driver side fender area.


It definitely needs replacing...


The next area of concern is this, the blower belt touches the back of the driver side fan? How much space is normally between the blower belt and fan?


Second to last surprise was this, a lot of grass and a plastic bag. It's a car, not a lawn mower!


And finally I went to change the oil, to the 20w-50 Chad recommended when he emailed me back. I had to use a breaker bar on the drain bolt and of course, the oil filter doesn't want to come off. Who does these things?!

I actually cringe looking at the prices that were paid for some of the items over the years in the paperwork that came with the car. They could have easily replaced the A/C compressor for what they paid to get rid of it...

Well looking for input on the piping into the Procharger for sure and anything else you all can think of. I want to make sure it all seems to run good before I pull it out of there.

Of course upon disassembly I will inspect and service the D1SC.

tbird31

iTrader: (22)

Personally I'd run a Lonnies double pump system. I built a D1SC charged LT SS and it maintained great pressure and was more then enough. When done right, just going boost IMO is easier because then you don't have to worry about a bunch of different variables. I guess that's why I'm not a fan of meth, I like simplicity. Also, please replace that intake pipe. It's terrible.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Oh it definitely needs replacing, does that look like the pipe that comes with the kit normally?
Granted this kit was purchased in 2003 so I know there possibly has been changes over the years.

Double in tank pumps? I was thinking of doing the single 340lph on the angle of simplicity, or would it even maybe be cost effective for me to just buy a second 255lph pump? I already have a walbro 255lph in tank in the car the motor is going in with the racetronix wiring. If it wouldn't be much more in parts to add the second pump then maybe that will be the route to go.

tbird31

iTrader: (22)

I just think it looks like drain piping that you put on your gutters to direct water. lol.

This is the PN for the kit: RX-FLT1-GSS340-DP-PKG

On this page: http://www.lonniesperformance.com/fbodyfuelsystems.htm

You have to take your current setup out and ship it to him, but once you get it back it's a direct drop in for a great price IMO.

Getting on in the game, I've finally after many years picked up the motto of overbuild at all costs. I'm tired of going back and doing things multiple times. Save, and do it right the first time.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Well I did find the intake piping on Brutespeed's webpage, seems that the original piping that shipped with kits WAAAYYYYY back in the day indeed is what is on my car.

So at the moment that $180.00 upgrade is on my radar. They list the part specifying that it replaces the "dryer" old style piping that collapses under boost....
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-3GAAI...-3GAAI-003.htm

Now my question would be though, if I am reading this right I can get the main portion of that for $40?
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-AIGA1...AIGA1I-007.htm

Then they list the metal portion at $37? http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-AIGA1...AIGA1I-013.htm

So the complete assembly in the first link states that the air filter is NOT included, so the 90 degree elbow is worth $103???? Am I missing something? I would have figured the large, requiring shaping, main part would be the bank breaker in that whole intake tube setup...

Purple Poncho

iTrader: (1)

I'd do a search on the FI section and the Camaroz28.com forum. To see what others have done. I'm betting you could piece your own kit together at a better price.
As I recall the hard part is finding a piece off of the supercharger and guys were using a cobra head. Search as ores have tried to optimize the intake. Try to get 4 inch piping. It is important on blower cars.