csi water pump failed - low voltage?
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Glad that method has worked well for you SS RRR
In my line of work (TV & Live show Lighting Director) my world has thousands of electrical connections be it voltage or data with miles of cable and connections.....90% of "why the F isn't that working" is due to poor wire connection typically within a connector so my mindset is more solder/heat shrink vs smash in fuse holder....
In my line of work (TV & Live show Lighting Director) my world has thousands of electrical connections be it voltage or data with miles of cable and connections.....90% of "why the F isn't that working" is due to poor wire connection typically within a connector so my mindset is more solder/heat shrink vs smash in fuse holder....
If you go about it the way I did you only have to run one wire across the radiator support from the distribution block to the underhood fuse box area for the power to the pump. It does not go to the fuse box, but connects directly to the + wire off your pump. Make sure the wire you run is gauged to handle the amperage. Match it to whatever gauge wire coming out of the pump.
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Trying to get as much out of photobucket as I can before changing over to something else. For now the pics uploaded or not oriented right. The yellow wire you see is connected to the AC/cruise fuse slot. Not ABS as originally stated. But you can see the setup is discrete. The wire from the distribution block to the water pump was run under the radiator support cover and is not visible.
[/URL]Trying to get as much out of photobucket as I can before changing over to something else. For now the pics uploaded or not oriented right. The yellow wire you see is connected to the AC/cruise fuse slot. Not ABS as originally stated. But you can see the setup is discrete. The wire from the distribution block to the water pump was run under the radiator support cover and is not visible.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: centerville, ohio
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2017
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This is the dangest thing. So I tested my luck, went for a drive, got 1 miles before the pump turned off again. Tugged and pulled on each on and found one that when consistently tugged would cause it to kick on and off.
Traced the wire and found another solder job, this one looked okay but it was one of the last connections I hadnt replaced yet.
I cut it out and butted it back together and while I was at it I replaced the ground and 12v chassis ring connectors and wire brushed all the connectors and bolts and generally cleaned up best I could. Put the battery back in, all came back on. Sweet! Turn key off and shut the hood. At this point the only connector not replaced or touched is the 12v from the fusebox that is tapped. Everything else is new.
Come back about to move the car a minute later, put it on ACC, listened and didnt hear the pump, popped the hood and yep, its off again. Car was not started and no wire was touched, Just shut the hood.
What the eff. Maybe the relay is getting stuck? I mean what else at this point lol? Or one of the wires has an internal break maybe?
Edit: Some of a B!!! I poked around some more, checked a the inline fuse and heard it sparked as I wiggled it (which I didnt inspect since it was taped down. this is also the same wire I identified this morning as bad that had the solder job) and the son of a bitch was cocked sideways! The heck!? Guy taped it in crooked. Took it out, brushed the terminals and sprayed contact cleaner in the box stuck it back in and now its good.
I will laugh at myself if this damn fuse was the culprit all along..
Anyways, check out these two beauties. I have no idea what the blue splice is all about or why there is a yellow ball on top.. Also 10-12 guage yellow ring being used with a 16g wire.
Traced the wire and found another solder job, this one looked okay but it was one of the last connections I hadnt replaced yet.
I cut it out and butted it back together and while I was at it I replaced the ground and 12v chassis ring connectors and wire brushed all the connectors and bolts and generally cleaned up best I could. Put the battery back in, all came back on. Sweet! Turn key off and shut the hood. At this point the only connector not replaced or touched is the 12v from the fusebox that is tapped. Everything else is new.
Come back about to move the car a minute later, put it on ACC, listened and didnt hear the pump, popped the hood and yep, its off again. Car was not started and no wire was touched, Just shut the hood.
What the eff. Maybe the relay is getting stuck? I mean what else at this point lol? Or one of the wires has an internal break maybe?
Edit: Some of a B!!! I poked around some more, checked a the inline fuse and heard it sparked as I wiggled it (which I didnt inspect since it was taped down. this is also the same wire I identified this morning as bad that had the solder job) and the son of a bitch was cocked sideways! The heck!? Guy taped it in crooked. Took it out, brushed the terminals and sprayed contact cleaner in the box stuck it back in and now its good.
I will laugh at myself if this damn fuse was the culprit all along..
Anyways, check out these two beauties. I have no idea what the blue splice is all about or why there is a yellow ball on top.. Also 10-12 guage yellow ring being used with a 16g wire.
Last edited by timaishu; Jul 28, 2017 at 11:04 PM.
