LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Water Pump Drive Seal Question

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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 07:32 AM
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Default Water Pump Drive Seal Question

Hello everyone! I have a question about the water pump drive seal. I watched a video that seemed to indicate that the grey part of the seal should be pointing towards the block and the yellow part should be pointing away. In the pictures below, both the yellow and grey parts of my seal are pointing away from the block. Does this look right or do I need a new seal?

I had the timing cover off and pressed in the seal. I'm not sure how I could have messed it up, but I'd rather make sure it's right now than after its back in the car.

Thanks in advance!

Water Pump Drive Seal Question-photo412.jpg
Water Pump Drive Seal Question-photo29.jpg
Water Pump Drive Seal Question-photo531.jpg
Water Pump Drive Seal Question-photo215.jpg
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 07:56 AM
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Anytime that seal has been removed from the shaft, it should be replaced. And yes, that seal wasn't installed correctly. The seals need to be pointing in opposite directions.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 08:48 AM
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How is OP different from the above pic?
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 09:34 AM
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I've had good luck with taking the cover off several times without changing out the seal. Just been really careful to seat it straight on when installing. Here's a good how to:
http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=30984
Originally Posted by ShovelMan
How is OP different from the above pic?
The inner seal is pushed out. Yours is not.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 10:24 AM
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When GM assembled the motors the seals were put in the TC before TC was installed. They used a Kent Moore tool....it is a plastic tapered one like the aftermarket "tool" available on ebay (pic)

Just putting a TC on with seal installed without a "tool" will almost 100% guarantee the inner lip folds over like OP's pic
Attached Thumbnails Water Pump Drive Seal Question-wp-drive-seal-tool-1.jpg   Water Pump Drive Seal Question-wp-drive-seal-tool-2.jpg   Water Pump Drive Seal Question-wp-drive-seal.jpg  
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 10:30 AM
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Just to clarify, the inner yellow lip should fold INTO/TOWARD the engine block?

EDIT: I just remembered. That inner seal has to be "flush" with the silver part. If it pokes out or folds, the seal is ruined....right?


We need higher-resolution pictures on this. I'll bust out my DSLR next time I'm working on replacing my Opti and seals.

Last edited by ShovelMan; Aug 3, 2017 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 11:33 AM
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To be clear, there are two seals--an inner grey and an outer yellow. From what I can gather, the outer yellow seal points away from the engine block, grey seal points inward toward the engine block.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ShovelMan
Just to clarify, the inner yellow lip should fold INTO/TOWARD the engine block?

EDIT: I just remembered. That inner seal has to be "flush" with the silver part. If it pokes out or folds, the seal is ruined....right?.
No, yellow side of seal faces "away" from engine

Originally Posted by CaptainArbitrage
To be clear, there are two seals--an inner grey and an outer yellow. From what I can gather, the outer yellow seal points away from the engine block, grey seal points inward toward the engine block.
^^^yes
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
I've had good luck with taking the cover off several times without changing out the seal. Just been really careful to seat it straight on when installing.
It may be possible, but since the entire WP gasket kit from FelPro includes the seal and its like $8, why bother with the risk? If it leaks, you're gonna spend all that time tearing it all back down. Do it right the first time, or you'll do it right when you re-do it.

Edit: I've had success using a filed-down Sharpie cap before I got the Kent Moore set. Give that a shot.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by atlantadan
It may be possible, .
It was possible. Several times.
It was a risk I was willing to take and it at least worked for me.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 12:20 PM
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This is the exploding wallet $ Kent Moore tool. Came with a KM hub install tool I bought

J-39087....and only $240.78...but wait, order now on ebay and you can get it for less than $75...that's right Chuckie, order within the next 20 min. and shipping is FREE!

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=j39087

The metal "clone" one generally available for $20 does the same thing
Attached Thumbnails Water Pump Drive Seal Question-wp-drive-seal-km.jpg  
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 12:27 PM
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Cut the end off of a Stanford Hi-Liter and you've got a $3 install tool.



Fat Sharpie works too

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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 12:36 PM
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... or do an e-pump, close up the seal area be done with it!
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 04:25 PM
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You can also gently massage the seal with a socket or your finger and expand the seal slightly so it slides on without folding over itself while you tap it on over the shaft. This is done while the TC is installed. I've had god luck doing it that way.

Gray faces the engine, yellow faces away towards the radiator.

Remember, no oil as well. It's a dry install.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 04:40 PM
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you can use the WP drive coupler itself or a deep socket the same size

....but what really helps to NOT fold over the inner lip is using something that is tapered on one end like the "tool" or the Sharpie pen cap which allows the seal to slide on the tool easier without folding over the inner lip

and yeah this and the Opti seal are PTFE seals, install dry. Don't oil/grease the seal
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by atlantadan

Fat Sharpie works too

That is one awesome pic! I'm pretty sure the dude that took that is as sharp as the sharpie!! Oh yeah, I say this because I took the pic.

Last edited by ACE1252; Aug 3, 2017 at 10:41 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 10:12 PM
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Thanks for all of the responses everyone! I have a backup seal that I'll consider putting on tomorrow depending on how far I get!
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