Fuel Tank Leak
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
I would say the higher you can get the rear of the car off the ground the better. We did not disconnect the drive shaft or the rear end or the brake lines, and I'm not absolutely sure whether we disconnected the shocks. It's been a few years now since we put the current tank on the car.
I would do anything necessary to allow for more lift. Ideally, I think the rear end would be off the car, but I really don't know how much extra labor that involve.
There just wasn't much room to move the tank around, get it oriented correctly etc. Based upon memory, I want to say that if the filler neck were flexible, it would be much, much easier doing it on jack stands.
I would do anything necessary to allow for more lift. Ideally, I think the rear end would be off the car, but I really don't know how much extra labor that involve.
There just wasn't much room to move the tank around, get it oriented correctly etc. Based upon memory, I want to say that if the filler neck were flexible, it would be much, much easier doing it on jack stands.
I’m going to have to drop the tank in my 93 very soon to replace the pump. First time I did it I had access to a lift so it was no problem, this time it’ll be jackstands in my garage. How high did you have to lift the rear to get the tank out? Did you leave the driveshaft attached to the diff or just pull the whole rear end out from underneath? Thanks.
Tank doesn't come straight down. I twisted it with the pass side hanging lower, then slid it over to get the neck out. Takes a lot of twisting, pulling, and cursing the first time but once you get the motion and sequence right its not too bad.
