Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Snapped the hub bolt off in the crank and couldn't get it with an easy out. I talked to a few shops. Most seemed to think "yeah, maybe we can get the broken bolt out, but might waste hours and have to pull the engine anyway". So **** it, I'm pulling it.

Last time I took the engine out, I went through the bottom and yeah it was easy. But there's a problem with my k-member and it was hell to get back in so I'm taking the engine out the top this time. It was such a PITA to get my k-member back in I ended up putting it in by itself and putting the engine back in from the top (because I couldn't get the k-member to line up with the engine on it), but I've never pulled the engine out the top. This was all quite awhile ago too, like 7 years or so??

As the thread says, are there any write ups that I can refresh my memory on that aren't dead? I've tried a search mostly just a lot of arguing whether going out the top or bottom is easier.

Also, anyone who has done it out the top recently, any pitfalls you remember? I've got the hub/balancer off already, going to take off the radiator, trans, bumper, and maybe the hood off too. I've also got a happy hooker. Can I pull it without discharging the A/C?

zebrabeefj40

Did this about a year ago on the car in my sig. Lots of room if you pull the hub/balancer and the radiator. I didn't pull the hub and tweaked the cowl weatherstrip slightly. I didn't need to pull the bumper or the hood but that depends on the engine hoist you have. On the A/C mine was dead so I didn't care but since the compressor is on the bottom and the condenser core drops out with the rad I think, if you were careful not to kink the lines, you could do the job without draining the system.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

As I've said before, you seem to get yourself in some real weird areas. Not sure why you can't simply line the k-member up? It should have pins on the k-member which makes placing it pretty easy as long as you have it on a furniture dolly and can wheel it around to make the fine adjustments before lowering the body.
Out the top should be very straight forward. You'll have to get the hook out of the way by either taking the shock towers off and suspend the hood to stay away from the engine hoise. Disconnect everything that is attached to the engine which is fastened to the engine bay in some form or fashion and take it out slowly. You'll also need a load leveler. It's been stated you can get the entire motor, trans along with headers attached out the top.

ACE1252

The secret to getting engine and K-member assembly to line up is suspending the engine and K-member in mid-air with the engine hoist. That way, you can push it around to where you need it.

Put a chain across the heads using the front bolt holes, put the hoist in the middle, and pull the assembly to the body. The kicker here is that you need a hoist with a long enough boom to clear the nose. If not, you may have to come in from the side or remove the nose cover from the car as to get it close enough.

As a side note, I always remove the hood from the car when I pull the engine.

Trying to line up the dowel pins via jacking it up from the bottom(with a floor jack) is going to be a major pain in the backside. Is that how you were trying to line it up before?

NewOrleansLT1

I installed my tubular K member with the engine in the car.. At that point I could have easily dropped the engine if I wanted to.. All I did was support the engine with a floor jack from the oil pan. If I would have lowered the jack the engine would have been out.. Real easy..

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You can also rest the k-member on a furniture dolly and wheel it around underneath while lowering the body.

hrcslam

To pull it out the top.

Disconnect the battery.
Jack the car up at all 4 corners.
Remove the starter.
Remove the transmission: engine to trans bolts- including clutch/tq. converter, tq. arm, exhaust O2s, y-pipe/cats, rear cross member and mount, driveshaft cross member and driveshaft, drop transmission.
Remove engine: disconnect all electrical connectors (ground at passenger motor mount, knock sensor, alternator power and signal wires, AC clutch connector, 8ea. Injector plugs, map sensor, fuel purge solenoid, egr solenoid, oil pressure sensor, low oil level sensor, coil pack (1 gray, 1 black), ICM, AIR pump (of still installed), then pull harness to passenger side and hang over the fender (this will confirm you have all the wires disconnected).Now remove the radiator with fans, serpentine belt, alternator, power steering pump, drop AC compressor (if leaving it hooked up), spark plugs, exhaust manifolds, intake manifold (so you can get the hoist down in the valley low), crank pulley and hub, and flywheel/flex plate. Remove motor mount bolts, remove engine from the top. Again get the hoist in low between the heads. When you lift it the engine will almost touch the wiper cowl.

I'm sure I forgot a few things.

Oh, buy a kiddy pool. It catches everything! Keeps the driveway/garage floor clean.

hrcslam

Or you could buy some drill bits (cobalt or something else very dense) and a bolt extractor set....

smitty2919

Ha, brilliant. I have laid down some trash bags that I slit down the side and duct tapped them together. But not having a raised lip still lets fluid run off. I have also used a large metal pan, but sometimes fluid runs back and drips down NOT where you are draining stuff lol

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I have broken a few oil pressure sensors while removing/reinstalling the engine. Now I simply remove it before I get a chance to break it and I install it after the engine is back in place. Be sure to protect the hole from debris.

qweedqwag

I just did this this summer, if you take out the rad and move the condensor down and remove the passenger side motor mount pedestal that has for blind nuts it will come right out, we had a guy under the car to help guide out the trans, after we took the pedestal out it was easy.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Get a pizza and a 30 rack as bait to get 2 buddies over. Get ziploc bags, 1" blue painters tape and 10 sharpies (you'll lose 9) to label every wire and bolt as it comes out. Rear tires on ramps, e brake on, front of the car up high on jack stands. Pull the fuel rail/injectors together without disconnecting the fuel line and lay it on a towel on the windshield. Pull the intake, front accessories and bracket, battery, radiator and fans, hang your AC compressor with wire or rope from the fender so you don't need to drain it. Take the balancer off, all wires disconnected, take off headers and steering shaft and y pipe. Disconnect O2s. Remove the shifter and put tape over the hole on the trans. Take a chain from one front intake bolt to 1 rear intake bolt diagonally, take off the motor mount bolts, and trans mount and torque arm mount and take out the driveshaft. Put a skinny strong guy under the car on a piece of cardboard to bench press the tail of the trans as someone starts working the motor and trans together up out of the mounts and forward, guy under the car bench pressing the trans up slightly then letting the tail of the trans fall on his chest, with an old Tupperware or oil pan to catch the rest of the trans fluid on his chest holding the tailshaft. Guy under the car wiggles forward on his shoulder blades as the hoist guy lifts and other guy yanks forward on the hoist. Go 1" forward, 1 pump up, 1" forward, 1 pump up on the hoist until the hub is pointing at the sky and take it out vertically. Once the guy under the car can stand up, 2 guys get into the engine bay and lift the tail of the trans over the radiator support and you are out.

Installation is the reverse.

Guy under the car gets extra beer.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

I snapped the hub bolt and this is what I did, I got a ball file and filed the broken bolt using a drill until it was concave, this left me with a smooth surface instead of a raggy edge due to the broken bolt, then took an automatic center punch and punched the center of the bolt, started with a small drill bit, I think it was 1/8th and worked up to the easy out size, after that it was easy, the broken bolt came right out..

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I have become a huge believer in anti seize, I gob that **** on damn near everything now so future Matt doesn't break bolts and knuckles, and years later when I go to take something apart, I am so happy when it comes right apart.

blk99camaro

iTrader: (9)

gotta be careful when lubing threads on things that require a more critical torque. Lube makes it far easier to overtorque things. This is why there are specs for fasteners with different types of lube. The change can make a pretty significant difference.