BTC

This may not be the best forum for this question, but I figured it might get more views here than in the fuel & injection sub-forum. Feel free to move it if you're so inclined.

Long story short, I put my car in storage in October of 2000, pulled it out in 2006 or 2007 and started working on getting it running, at which point it needed new "everything", including a fuel tank.

This past weekend I finally got it out to drive after 17 years of "sitting". The first thing I did was take it to a gas station to "fill it up". The brand new Spectra fuel tank we put on it a few years ago appears to be leaking and as best we can tell it's where the filler neck enters the tank. This was the first time the tank had been filled up, but we have been putting gas in it over the last several years, five gallons at a time via gas can, without issues.

I've attached a couple pics that show the nature of the leak. The gas was running down the driver's side of the tank, dripping onto the exhaust shielding and exiting on the passenger side of the car. I have to admit that was the most awesome part of the "first drive". I almost wanted to drop a match, but that would have probably blown up the entire gas station, along with myself and several innocent bystanders.

The leak eventually stopped when the fuel level reached a certain point and I was able to drive the car, which was a lot of fun after having not driven it in such a long time. It seems to run & drive better than ever with the addition of Kooks headers, GMMG exhaust, Strano springs & Koni shocks.

Has anyone effectively fixed a leak like this with epoxy/JB Weld or other means? I would really like to avoid pulling and replacing/repairing the tank as it can be, or is, a huge PITA.

ACE1252

I haven't had to deal with any fuel tank leaks yet, but I've seen online where JB Weld didn't work.

Permatex makes some good stuff, so this might work.
https://www.permatex.com/products/sp...nk-repair-kit/

I know it's a pain, but I think I'd pull it and get it welded.

BTC

Yeah, I've also read about some JB Weld failures, but I've also read that it worked.

They seem to make a couple products that might work in this situation.

https://www.jbweld.com/collections/w...xy-putty-stick
https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-tankweld

The Spectra tank I put on has a three year warranty, but I'm pretty much certain it's been on the car longer than that.

Pulling the tank is such a huge PITA. It might be easier if you drop the rear end and have a lift.

I'm probably going to try some sort of on car repair via epoxy etc. If the hole was anywhere else, I might be a bit more reluctant to try that solution. If it fails, I guess I'll pursue other options.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

What issues did you run in to pulling the tank?

I know every car is different, but I don't remember pulling the tank on my 93 being too difficult. Jacked it up high with stands on the body, let the rear end hang until it bottomed out, then tank shimmied out after releasing both straps. This is also with the older fixed style filler neck - I think they eventually went to a flexible one?

BTC

The issues we had were primarily the result of space limitations. The car was jacked up and the rear end was hanging, although not disconnected. Removing/installing the tank was a huge pain, mostly due to the fixed filler neck. Disconnecting & reconnecting the fuel lines was also a pain. I'm sure if the rear end was off the car and we had a lift, it wouldn't have been such a big deal. However, under our circumstances it was a HUGE pain.

I think I'm going to try the epoxy route. Removing & replacing/repairing the tank will be a last resort.

biketopia

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure it's a hole in the tank, and not just a hole in a line or lose clamp?

BTC

Not absolutely certain of anything, but it appeared to be leaking from around the filler neck, where it goes into the tank. We've had gas in it since we put the tank on the car, and we've been starting it periodically to let it run, but that was the first time the tank had been filled to the brim. It quit leaking after a gallon or so ran out. It's hard to say exactly how much leaked out, but we captured maybe 1/3 of a gallon.

BALLSS

Bill....you know you have a leak...I suggest you get under the car while someone else pours some gas in until it starts leaking. You should be able to see where it comes from. It likely is a bad solder joint on tube to tank....unless there is a bridge hose between tank and fill cap that has a lose clamp or that hose is bad

BTC

We'll definitely be taking a closer look over Christmas. Under the circumstances, sitting at the gas pump, at the gas station, our inspection options were a bit limited, but you could definitely tell that gas was running the down the driver's side of the tank, and appeared to be originating from the area where the filler neck enters the tank. The filler neck on the tank is solid.

Short of replacing or welding/soldering the tank, I was curious whether anyone had successfully addressed similar, or any, leaks via other means.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

I would use the JB Weld Steelstik if it is just the filler neck seam. I have used it in a pinch on aluminum radiator end caps (not an LT1, we have crappy plastic end caps) and it holds great even under pressure - especially if you can access the part enough to hit it with a wire brush and clean it well.

It is not under pressure or anything assuming your vent system is working, and only touches gas when completely filled to the brim so you will be fine.

BTC

I appreciate the input and I share your sentiments. I've actually reached out to JB Weld to get their opinion, but haven't heard anything. I might have to call.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Keep us posted, will be interesting to see what they say and recommend.

BTC

I called JB-Weld and explained what was up. The entire conversation could not have been more than 30-60 seconds and their recommendation was

https://www.jbweld.com/products/kwikweld-twin-tube

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Awesome, glad to see what they recommend .

BALLSS

While that JB weld does say "automotive" use and good for metal...IDK if it is impervious to gas. Ideally it is

BTC

I actually called them again today to get a second opinion and the person that I spoke with this time recommended the original JB Weld, which is apparently a stronger product than the Kwik Weld. I guess I feel better about this recommendation as the person actually asked me some questions before throwing out an answer.

I actually asked this person about using Steelstik or Tankweld. They said they could be used, but in this particular situation they felt that their original product would provide the best results.

BALLSS

well JB Weld is impervious to gas according to their website so give it a try. Apply it with the tank low enough on gas that it does not weep through the seam you are repairing.

Might want to hit the area with a wire brush then wipe clean with acetone before applying. Let it fully cure/dry before driving the car

BTC

I'll definitely make sure that the area is clean & dry. I may also rough it up with some sandpaper, wire brush etc. as that also seems to be a recommendation. I'll also be allowing plenty of time to cure.

With the tank still mounted, I honestly don't know what type of access I'll have to the area where the epoxy will need to be applied. I just know that removing the factory tank and installing this new tank was a pain, and that seemed to be primarily due to the fixed filler neck.

El Seano

I’m going to have to drop the tank in my 93 very soon to replace the pump. First time I did it I had access to a lift so it was no problem, this time it’ll be jackstands in my garage. How high did you have to lift the rear to get the tank out? Did you leave the driveshaft attached to the diff or just pull the whole rear end out from underneath? Thanks.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I've removed the tank twice on jackstands. There is no need to completely remove the rear end, both the driveshaft and torque arm can remain attached. Get the body up pretty high with stands under the frame rail, take off the rear wheels. Unbolt the shocks, remove the panhard rod and support, unbolt the brake line bracket from the frame so it can droop. You do not need to break the lines, just let them flex a little. If you have a DS loop, it may need to be unbolted.