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Thanks Moehorsepower I will be upgrading my fuel lines but we were talking about the oil drain line from the turbo and the 100mc inline filter before the scavenge pump.
Everything looks great I can't wait to put everything together and get the car back on the road.
Shownomercy what rwhp/rwtq are you making with the stock fuel lines and at what rwhp/rwtq levels to the lines need to be upgraded?
Also do you have any recent videos of your car at the track?
Dyno says 650/750, car weighs 3600lb and traps 140.
I run LSX pressure so base is ~55psi of fuel head, squeaks you a tad more margin. I also run a MP-4301 fuel pump. No meth here either, straight 93 pump
That being said, I am sure my fuel pump would be happier with larger lines. However, I think I am at the limit of 80# sticks before fuel line.
No recent videos, honestly rarely race the thing. Costs to much to fix when it breaks.,
Thanks guys I do have the dual stealth 340 pumps, Shownomercy how did you get the GTO spares to fit on the front of your car I can't get mine to seat fully, it's like the bc is too small or something?
Thanks guys I do have the dual stealth 340 pumps, Shownomercy how did you get the GTO spares to fit on the front of your car I can't get mine to seat fully, it's like the bc is too small or something?
I think you have the wrong person in mind.
My car runs on full 17s with 275s all around. Street car and all.
Update the engine is at the machine shop, the block work is completed, bored .040 over, deck plugs, forced pin oilers, decked block, half filled with hard blok, splayed billet main caps, align honed, plate honed ARP head & main studs, block o-ringed. Callies Dragonslayer 4340 crank, Eagle 6" 4340 H beam rods with ARP L-19 cap screws and SRP forged -16 cc dished pistons all coated with appropriate thermal barrier, dry film lubricated or oil shedding coatings, internally balanced, with Fluidampr and McLeod Street twin clutch.
I have AFR 210 Eliminator heads and I will have additional porting done to maximize them further and the combustion chambers and exhaust ports will also be thermal barrier coated, shaft rockers Supervictor EFI intake and a yet to be determined custom cam with Comp Cams short travel Hr lifters or possible a TL solid roller cam.
Kevko 7 qt road race oil pan with baffles and trap doors with a Melling hv/hp pump and a B&M oil cooler with built in cooling fan.
Here are some pics from the machine shop.
I loved every thing I read until the SRP piston. It sounds like you are going for big power. If it was me I would go with a 2618 alloy JE or equivalent piston. Don't know if it is too late for you to switch?
Last edited by Purple Poncho; Nov 30, 2018 at 11:51 AM.
Reason: Typo
I have an Eboost street, which I like. Its simple enough for me
The boost by gear is tricky, you are only seeing it as you work up the gears, it won't know when you downshift. At least that is what I remember from when I was looking. It also requires you to mechanically install microswitches to get hit each gear position at shifter.
I know this is a little late, but check out the cortex boost controller, it knows what gear you're in and detects downshifting with no switches to add either.
I know this is a little late, but check out the cortex boost controller, it knows what gear you're in and detects downshifting with no switches to add either.
the trans has had nothing to do with it. Traction does. That’s the whole point. You can leave on lower boost. Ramp it up at the top of first gear or when you shift to second. I posted because I didn’t realize how crappy an eboost2 is. Evidently the cortex is far superior and less money. The more I read about the eboost2, the better I feel about my purchase. Anyone reading this thread should really check out the cortex. It’s worth every penny. I ride around on regular nankang cheap *** radials. It was useless to get on the car under 60mph before the controller. I’ve got 2psi in first and 6 or 7 in second and whatever I want in third. It’s a really trick setup that’s not over complicated or expensive.
the trans has had nothing to do with it. Traction does. That’s the whole point. You can leave on lower boost. Ramp it up at the top of first gear or when you shift to second. I posted because I didn’t realize how crappy an eboost2 is. Evidently the cortex is far superior and less money. The more I read about the eboost2, the better I feel about my purchase. Anyone reading this thread should really check out the cortex. It’s worth every penny. I ride around on regular nankang cheap *** radials. It was useless to get on the car under 60mph before the controller. I’ve got 2psi in first and 6 or 7 in second and whatever I want in third. It’s a really trick setup that’s not over complicated or expensive.
No issues with traction. I run 275/50r17 drag radials all the time. I bring the boost in as fast as the turbo can. For my setup, the fancy EBC is not really needed.
I was the one who asked about boost by gear as my car has a faceplated T56 and as far as running the SRP forged pistons, I trust my engine builder when he says they will be fine with the coatings and forced piston oilers.
No issues with traction. I run 275/50r17 drag radials all the time. I bring the boost in as fast as the turbo can. For my setup, the fancy EBC is not really needed.
well i drive my car a lot and it rains here a lot. So I can’t ride on drag radials all the time. Add in the fact that almost every time I drive it, I get challenged. I don’t like to lose and without this controller, the car would be utterly useless unless we are going over 60. In your case, you say you couldn’t benefit from it but I beg to differ. The way this works vs a manual controller is it makes the boost come in quicker. It’s not bleeding off boost the whole time like a manual controller does. The beauty of it is it puts the aem and the eboost2 to utter shame for less money.
I was the one who asked about boost by gear as my car has a faceplated T56 and as far as running the SRP forged pistons, I trust my engine builder when he says they will be fine with the coatings and forced piston oilers.
well I guess I was really meaning to reply to you. There’s no way I’d put micro switches for gears. Lol. Well, unless I had no choice.
well i drive my car a lot and it rains here a lot. So I can’t ride on drag radials all the time. Add in the fact that almost every time I drive it, I get challenged. I don’t like to lose and without this controller, the car would be utterly useless unless we are going over 60. In your case, you say you couldn’t benefit from it but I beg to differ. The way this works vs a manual controller is it makes the boost come in quicker. It’s not bleeding off boost the whole time like a manual controller does. The beauty of it is it puts the aem and the eboost2 to utter shame for less money.
yea my car doesn't come out in rain/snow/etc
I have a eboost street, and its set to bring in boost as quick as possible without spiking boost.
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