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So when this motor was built, they used a Lunati crank that I guess only came in a 2pc rear main seal version. As I'm at the final parts of tearing down the motor, I cannot get the cap off so I can remove the crank and rear seal. I know RTV was put all across the entire length of the split as I wiped the excess off with my finger. I'm guessing this is too much.
I've tried banging away with my rubber hammer, and even a little prying which you can see already left marks on the stud soft aluminum. I'm really at a loss here on how to separate this top cap without damaging it or the crank. I really need help here...
My thinking is you're going to put pressure over a wider area of the aluminum to get it to separate, Rather than just a corner. Looks like you could put a pry bar in the crankshaft flange and the engine stand to gently put pressure on it. It shouldn't take much pressure.
My thinking is you're going to put pressure over a wider area of the aluminum to get it to separate, Rather than just a corner. Looks like you could put a pry bar in the crankshaft flange and the engine stand to gently put pressure on it. It shouldn't take much pressure.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking to try, but I wasn't sure if that surface was sensitive to balancing. Maybe I'll have to say "f" it and just do it.
Originally Posted by SS RRR
Tap the side of that housing with a rubber mallet.
I've been trying that...a lot. Whacking the **** out of that it hadn't budged at all...
Your not going to harm the crankshaft easily, It would take a hell of a lot of force to damage a crank by prying on the end of it, More than you would be able to apply with a small pry bar.
Sharpen a small pry bar and put it on the edge of the seam and tap it using a regular hammer.
This bitch isn't coming off. It looks like there's only an alignment dowel on one side, so I'm going to just unbolt it and lift the crank up while rotating it. I'll let the machine shop pop it off. I'll update when I get it there and checked out. Thanks all for chiming in!
In the picture I see a button head bolt in the back of the housing seal did you remove those?
A brass hammer would damage the crap out of it as it's made of aluminum.
Those button head bolts are on the lower portion. I need to pop off the top of the cap to remove it. They should separate but I think they put so much rtv on it it just won't dislodge
Its been a long time but I thought you had to unbolt top and bottom to release the two pieces,, The seal itself will glue the halves together.. I recall helping pop one off and I remember swearing a lot but don't remember what the trick was, It may have been pure brute force..
Its been a long time but I thought you had to unbolt top and bottom to release the two pieces,, The seal itself will glue the halves together.. I recall helping pop one off and I remember swearing a lot but don't remember what the trick was, It may have been pure brute force..
Oh yeah, the two bolts the are vertical that join the top and the bottom are removed.
Haha, at least I'm not alone then! I wish these were cheaper so I didn't care about ruining it .
Wait a second,, check real careful that there are not 2 dowel pins at 4 and 6 o'clock with the block sitting head side down.. You may not be able to see them from the external side.. Dental mirror might do it,,
Wait a second,, check real careful that there are not 2 dowel pins at 4 and 6 o'clock with the block sitting head side down.. You may not be able to see them from the external side.. Dental mirror might do it,,
So now I feel real dumb...I found two additional vertical button head bolts that are exposed in the top (heads side). I didn't see these since the engine is on the stand and crank-side up. Man, this would be a nightmare to change with the motor in the car as those would be damn hard to get to.
Although this isn't the first dumb thread I've started, thank you very much for the replies. Without them, especially PDX's, I would have stayed frustrated.
It happens lol, I just spent a week trying to fire an engine on the run stand only to find out I had replaced one bad crank sensor with second bad sensor.
I was pulling my hair out, I checked all the wires and even pulled the Holley Dominator out of my truck (about 2 hours to get it out) and tried it and still no go. In the end I tried yet another sensor and it fired right up.
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2pc Seal Main Adaptor Removal Problem 
