2pc Seal Main Adaptor Removal Problem
#1
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2pc Seal Main Adaptor Removal Problem
So when this motor was built, they used a Lunati crank that I guess only came in a 2pc rear main seal version. As I'm at the final parts of tearing down the motor, I cannot get the cap off so I can remove the crank and rear seal. I know RTV was put all across the entire length of the split as I wiped the excess off with my finger. I'm guessing this is too much.
I've tried banging away with my rubber hammer, and even a little prying which you can see already left marks on the stud soft aluminum. I'm really at a loss here on how to separate this top cap without damaging it or the crank. I really need help here...
I've tried banging away with my rubber hammer, and even a little prying which you can see already left marks on the stud soft aluminum. I'm really at a loss here on how to separate this top cap without damaging it or the crank. I really need help here...
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#6
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My thinking is you're going to put pressure over a wider area of the aluminum to get it to separate, Rather than just a corner. Looks like you could put a pry bar in the crankshaft flange and the engine stand to gently put pressure on it. It shouldn't take much pressure.
I've been trying that...a lot. Whacking the **** out of that it hadn't budged at all...
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#9
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This bitch isn't coming off. It looks like there's only an alignment dowel on one side, so I'm going to just unbolt it and lift the crank up while rotating it. I'll let the machine shop pop it off. I'll update when I get it there and checked out. Thanks all for chiming in!
#12
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Those button head bolts are on the lower portion. I need to pop off the top of the cap to remove it. They should separate but I think they put so much rtv on it it just won't dislodge
#14
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Its been a long time but I thought you had to unbolt top and bottom to release the two pieces,, The seal itself will glue the halves together.. I recall helping pop one off and I remember swearing a lot but don't remember what the trick was, It may have been pure brute force..
#15
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Its been a long time but I thought you had to unbolt top and bottom to release the two pieces,, The seal itself will glue the halves together.. I recall helping pop one off and I remember swearing a lot but don't remember what the trick was, It may have been pure brute force..
Haha, at least I'm not alone then! I wish these were cheaper so I didn't care about ruining it .
#16
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But isn't there a bolt on each side of the top or block side from the rear into the block?
Best I can remember the one I helped on had 4 bolts, 2 held the collar together and 2 held the collar to the block...
They say memory is the first thing to go.. LOL
Best I can remember the one I helped on had 4 bolts, 2 held the collar together and 2 held the collar to the block...
They say memory is the first thing to go.. LOL
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I'll try looking again, but those 4 bolts all seemed to attach the bottom to the block...
#18
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Wait a second,, check real careful that there are not 2 dowel pins at 4 and 6 o'clock with the block sitting head side down.. You may not be able to see them from the external side.. Dental mirror might do it,,
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Although this isn't the first dumb thread I've started, thank you very much for the replies. Without them, especially PDX's, I would have stayed frustrated.
#20
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It happens lol, I just spent a week trying to fire an engine on the run stand only to find out I had replaced one bad crank sensor with second bad sensor.
I was pulling my hair out, I checked all the wires and even pulled the Holley Dominator out of my truck (about 2 hours to get it out) and tried it and still no go. In the end I tried yet another sensor and it fired right up.
I was pulling my hair out, I checked all the wires and even pulled the Holley Dominator out of my truck (about 2 hours to get it out) and tried it and still no go. In the end I tried yet another sensor and it fired right up.