New engine build.
New engine build. So I went to dump the oil in the waste oil storage today and there is deffinetly bearing material in the bottom.of the bucket I drained the oil into. I thought I was on gold rush with the amount of brass in the bottom.
anyway I want to do an Na 383 but I don' feel like building my own. I was thinking about buying a shortblock from a manufacture. This cat is gonna be 90 street use and I'm gonn do le2 heads and a custom cam. What shortblock do you guys recommed?
anyway I want to do an Na 383 but I don' feel like building my own. I was thinking about buying a shortblock from a manufacture. This cat is gonna be 90 street use and I'm gonn do le2 heads and a custom cam. What shortblock do you guys recommed?
I like ERE because they are closer but the price difference is pretty big. I want to go with a forged crank because I heard the cat ones break. I notice both companies offer a cast crank though. What's everyone's opinion? Golen has a 383 with forged crank for 3999 which isn't bad.
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ERE is a one man shop. Karl builds each motor with great care and is highly regarded. IIRC his fee is $1500 + what ever part selection you chose, machining & shipping
Golen is a large motor shop. I ordered the 4 bolt forged 383 short block with SRP pistons. Yeah $ have gone up from what they were 10 years ago....like everything else.
Golen is a large motor shop. I ordered the 4 bolt forged 383 short block with SRP pistons. Yeah $ have gone up from what they were 10 years ago....like everything else.
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I went with golen because his shop is 5 minutes from my work and I was able to stop in and check on my motor build whenever I wanted plus I could pick it up when it was done to save on shipping. over 12k miles on my motor without issues, and I have a cast scat crank in mine because I'm an idiot and didn't spring for the forged unit at the time but so far so good *knocks on wood*.
can't go wrong with either shop IMO
can't go wrong with either shop IMO
I tried to call ERE this week twice no one picked up it went to voice mail.I'm gona send my spare heads out to me LE first any way
I'm curious about which way you guys would go.with the rockers? I have S.A. rockers now and this car is gonna be used on the street almost exclusively. I was always under the impression you went to NSA rockers based on cam lift. But I read a post the other day that suggested it was based on RPM.
I'm a little nervous about using NsA rockers as I have no experience with them. I know you need ride plates and hardened pushrods.
I'm curious about which way you guys would go.with the rockers? I have S.A. rockers now and this car is gonna be used on the street almost exclusively. I was always under the impression you went to NSA rockers based on cam lift. But I read a post the other day that suggested it was based on RPM.
I'm a little nervous about using NsA rockers as I have no experience with them. I know you need ride plates and hardened pushrods.
It is based on RPM. The guide plates aid the rocker to stay as straigt as possible, while the roller tip on the rocker maintains full contact on the valve tip at all times during high rpm reciprocation. You can’t go wrong with comp cams ultra pro mags.
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I
I'm curious about which way you guys would go.with the rockers? I have S.A. rockers now and this car is gonna be used on the street almost exclusively. I was always under the impression you went to NSA rockers based on cam lift. But I read a post the other day that suggested it was based on RPM..
I'm curious about which way you guys would go.with the rockers? I have S.A. rockers now and this car is gonna be used on the street almost exclusively. I was always under the impression you went to NSA rockers based on cam lift. But I read a post the other day that suggested it was based on RPM..
Get the ISKY adjustable guide plates and Comp ultra pro mag, IMHO
I tried to call ERE this week twice no one picked up it went to voice mail.I'm gona send my spare heads out to me LE first any way
I'm curious about which way you guys would go.with the rockers? I have S.A. rockers now and this car is gonna be used on the street almost exclusively. I was always under the impression you went to NSA rockers based on cam lift. But I read a post the other day that suggested it was based on RPM.
I'm a little nervous about using NsA rockers as I have no experience with them. I know you need ride plates and hardened pushrods.
I'm curious about which way you guys would go.with the rockers? I have S.A. rockers now and this car is gonna be used on the street almost exclusively. I was always under the impression you went to NSA rockers based on cam lift. But I read a post the other day that suggested it was based on RPM.
I'm a little nervous about using NsA rockers as I have no experience with them. I know you need ride plates and hardened pushrods.
NSA all the way. I had the Isky's and while they worked, they were a colossal bitch to adjust without being welded. Stick with non adjustable plates if you can get away with it.
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Once you do have them adjusted you "can" tack weld the 2 halves together if in the future you want to pull the guide plates for whatever reason and replace to the same cyl they cam from. I did not weld mine together after adjusting. Over 10 years, no problem.
The issue most of us had with one piece guide plates on GM AL heads is you could get one RR dead center but other would be off. Moving one affected the other. Hence the 2 piece eliminates that issue
One can certainly use one piece if they work on "all" the cyl/valves but in most cases there are a few cyl that don't line up...YMMV
Ok a few questions. I have been reading up on some other people's threads and I have a few questions. I have read that le 2 heads or even stock heads can't flow enough for a 383. So my question is if I go le2 on stock heads is it even worth going with a 383?
sorry for all the questions I just don't want to do this again. Nor do I want to waste a bunch of money on a poor running motor.
sorry for all the questions I just don't want to do this again. Nor do I want to waste a bunch of money on a poor running motor.
...you don't weld them together then adjust...
Once you do have them adjusted you "can" tack weld the 2 halves together if in the future you want to pull the guide plates for whatever reason and replace to the same cyl they cam from. I did not weld mine together after adjusting. Over 10 years, no problem.
Once you do have them adjusted you "can" tack weld the 2 halves together if in the future you want to pull the guide plates for whatever reason and replace to the same cyl they cam from. I did not weld mine together after adjusting. Over 10 years, no problem.
Ok a few questions. I have been reading up on some other people's threads and I have a few questions. I have read that le 2 heads or even stock heads can't flow enough for a 383. So my question is if I go le2 on stock heads is it even worth going with a 383?
sorry for all the questions I just don't want to do this again. Nor do I want to waste a bunch of money on a poor running motor.
sorry for all the questions I just don't want to do this again. Nor do I want to waste a bunch of money on a poor running motor.
Honestly even LE1 heads would work for a street 383 pumping out 260cfm with a 195cc intake runner. Would make a great powerband under the curve and support a 500fwhp build. LE2 gets another 10-20cfm but the runners are hogged out to 205cc i believe.
My 383 has LE trickflows with 202/160 valves and flows 290cfm at .600 lift. Great flowing heads but cost a lot of $$$. With 210cc runners i might be sacrificing some low end torque over LE1's but this motor really shines in the mid-upper rpms.
My point is you really dont need high flowing hogged out heads for a street car to make a great power curve.
I think LE1's are a great all around head for a great price. Good cfm flow and high port velocity with relatively small 195cc runners. If you want more than 260cfm just have Lloyd put bigger valves in and flow 270cfm.
My 383 has LE trickflows with 202/160 valves and flows 290cfm at .600 lift. Great flowing heads but cost a lot of $$$. With 210cc runners i might be sacrificing some low end torque over LE1's but this motor really shines in the mid-upper rpms.
My point is you really dont need high flowing hogged out heads for a street car to make a great power curve.
I think LE1's are a great all around head for a great price. Good cfm flow and high port velocity with relatively small 195cc runners. If you want more than 260cfm just have Lloyd put bigger valves in and flow 270cfm.
Last edited by 350 groundpounder; May 28, 2018 at 11:55 AM.