iam looking at the cc503 cam what mods do i need to go with it
07-10-2018, 11:23 AM
#2
Great cam selection. I had that cam in my first LT1 and loved it.
Comp Pro Magnum Rockers: 1305-16
Crane Dual Valve Springs: 10308-1
Trickflow Pushrods: 21407200
Trickflow Guideplates: 30400623-8
ARP Rocker Arm Studs: 134-7103
Fel Pro Valve Seals (if not included in your gasket set for the cam swap): SS72861
Comp Pro Magnum Rockers: 1305-16
Crane Dual Valve Springs: 10308-1
Trickflow Pushrods: 21407200
Trickflow Guideplates: 30400623-8
ARP Rocker Arm Studs: 134-7103
Fel Pro Valve Seals (if not included in your gasket set for the cam swap): SS72861
07-12-2018, 07:01 PM
#7
If you have an auto then a stall will be needed or driveability will suffer. I run the cc503 now in my caprice with tri-Y headers, highflow cats, ported polished heads (non-LE, local) with larger valves and such. It is a great cam. You cannot run the OE valve train with this cam, the list above is a good list. While doing the swap you will also need new water pump gaskets, opti seals are recommended while you are in there. Might consider new water pump also if yours is older but it is so much easier to do since it will all be apart. If you are doing the work yourself consider the Comp spring compressor tool for LT1s. Made the spring swap so easy.
On the TB. I use the stock 48mm. Perhaps I should have went to 52 but I didnt. I run a vigilante 3k stall. Almost wish I went 3600. Not sure how it differs in the F-bodies. Some others can chime in. I would not run the factory stall. Since you will swap the stall might as well consider the trans go kit at the same time.
Of course there are gears. . . A bit lower on the list, especially if you run a manual tranny. Auto is a bit more important. Also - gears and a stall will give you a nice performance boost and be cheaper than a cam swap. I run 4.10s with a new eaton posi. Had this and the stall done before the cam.
Fuel pump should be at least factory new. Consider the racetronix wiring upgrade. I run a factory pump. You might also want to flow and clean your injectors either at home (budget) or at a shop (about ~$220 all in). Mine only gained 5% flow but the pattern was much better after and helped the car idle quality. Hard to assess at WOT.
And a tune is mandatory. Especially if you go 52mm TB otherwise you could kill your tranny.
I consider this a do it once kind of job. It can get pricey but you will be much happier with the results.
Lastly, while the cc503 is a great cam there are other more modern cams that may be marginally better but at the higher expense. Might be more I am forgetting but this gives you some stuff to think about.
On the TB. I use the stock 48mm. Perhaps I should have went to 52 but I didnt. I run a vigilante 3k stall. Almost wish I went 3600. Not sure how it differs in the F-bodies. Some others can chime in. I would not run the factory stall. Since you will swap the stall might as well consider the trans go kit at the same time.
Of course there are gears. . . A bit lower on the list, especially if you run a manual tranny. Auto is a bit more important. Also - gears and a stall will give you a nice performance boost and be cheaper than a cam swap. I run 4.10s with a new eaton posi. Had this and the stall done before the cam.
Fuel pump should be at least factory new. Consider the racetronix wiring upgrade. I run a factory pump. You might also want to flow and clean your injectors either at home (budget) or at a shop (about ~$220 all in). Mine only gained 5% flow but the pattern was much better after and helped the car idle quality. Hard to assess at WOT.
And a tune is mandatory. Especially if you go 52mm TB otherwise you could kill your tranny.
I consider this a do it once kind of job. It can get pricey but you will be much happier with the results.
Lastly, while the cc503 is a great cam there are other more modern cams that may be marginally better but at the higher expense. Might be more I am forgetting but this gives you some stuff to think about.