motor in through top or bottom?
I pulled my lt1 out through the top of the car and now that ive finished rebuilding it im getting ready to drop it back in.. but i am gonna put it back in with the tranny bolted to the motor so i was wondering if any of you guys suggest me going through the bottom and just dropping the k member and going like that or is it tough to drop the motor and trans together through the top?? has anyone ever tried dropping the motor in with the trans through the top and if so, how tough was it? Thanks
M6 or A4? If you have the means dropping the k member, it isn't bad. Granted I did it on a lift so it's easy to get the car out of the way. I've heard the A4 is a little easier to get the whole combo in from the top vs the 6speed.
My engine hoist has a load leveler that comes with it.. i would like to try it from the top maybe but idk how tough its gonna be honestly.. but i am for sure putting the drive train back into the car all connected and ready to go.
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i could take my valve covers off but then that would expose my valve train like my rockers, valve springs.. etc.. also my intake isnt gonna be able to come off because ive already bolted it down. maybe you should just go from the bottom..
I'd try it through the top first. If the valve covers aren't as tall as the intake then perhaps it won't be a problem. I have, however seen where the radiator being out makes life much easier.
pretty much everything has been taken out of the engine bay including the radiator .. ill try it through the top first .. where's the best place to bolts the four L hooks (don't know what there called) to the motor with the intake on it . And no I don't have the happy hooker.. lol
Last edited by Bosshog; Jul 16, 2018 at 09:30 PM.
You will probably need to lift the back of the car pretty good to get the motor with transmission and intake on. I have installed and removed it fully assembled minus water pump, dampener and front accessories twice by myself and the load leveler always wants to smash right into the cowl and dent it up or the tail shaft of the transmission hits the ground. Since then I just do it with the heads and intake off. There's a special hook (Happy Hooker I think?) that bolts to the top of the intake and supposed to make the installation from the top a lot easier.
I would also say, use the tpis happy hooker. Prob is i don't know if it would support the weight of the engine and transmission because it only uses the 4 small bolt holes in the top of the intake where the fuel injection rail hooks up.
I too would be leary as **** to use the happy hooker. If it's true about the load leveler coming into contact with the cowl then I'd say pull the k-member and install through the bottom. Life is too short to be experiencing headaches like that bulllllshit. And as man-crush stated, you can do that by yourself.
I too would be leary as **** to use the happy hooker. If it's true about the load leveler coming into contact with the cowl then I'd say pull the k-member and install through the bottom. Life is too short to be experiencing headaches like that bulllllshit. And as man-crush stated, you can do that by yourself.
On the ABS block LF and RF need to be disconnected and removed from the protective shield. Get the book How to Build High Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s. It will give you detailed instructions on what all needs to be done to drop it from the bottom on the k-member. A two post lift will make the job much easier but I've seen videos of people just using a strap and an engine hoist to lift the car off of the k-member.
.... or two quality floor jacks with a couple lf blocks of 2X4 on the jack pad and a furniture dolly to rest the k-member on when putting into place with the engine bolted onto it.
That's the plan. I just got the brake lines disconnected and now all i gotta do is unbolt the k member.












