LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 steam pipe

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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 05:52 PM
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Default LT1 steam pipe

Hello everyone,

I am finishing my LT1 383 install. I went with a brand new GM coolant steam crossover pipe. I read a lot of stuff about people using different hoses to make higher flowing pipes. I was thinking brand new from General Motors would do the trick at least for 10,000 miles. Does anyone think this OEM pipe is a problem?

Thank you!!
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 02:53 AM
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I reused my 250,000 mile steam pipe when installing new LE Trick Flow heads. Everything's great!
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by AdsoYo
I reused my 250,000 mile steam pipe when installing new LE Trick Flow heads. Everything's great!
Ok cool, thank you!
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 12:04 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by Alex-chevy
Does anyone think this OEM pipe is a problem?
Not in the slightest. Just make sure to not bend it or it will be a Class A ************ to get the ports to line up with the banjo bolts. If ever you have to take the heads off for any reason it should be one of the first things to come off and the last to go on.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Not in the slightest. Just make sure to not bend it or it will be a Class A ************ to get the ports to line up with the banjo bolts. If ever you have to take the heads off for any reason it should be one of the first things to come off and the last to go on.
Awesome, thank you! I always buy the General Motors original equipment washers and torque the banjo bolts to 30 foot pounds.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 12:19 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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You don't have to be exact with the torque spec. Just know taking the banjo bolts off while the engine is in the car can be a Class B ************. If they are GM bolts they could be an odd size where no standard or metric wrench really fits well and there is always the possibility of the nut stripping. Also, make sure to use two seals for each bolt. One pressing against the head and steam pipe and the other pressing against the shoulder of the bolt to the steam pipe.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
You don't have to be exact with the torque spec. Just know taking the banjo bolts off while the engine is in the car can be a Class B ************. If they are GM bolts they could be an odd size where no standard or metric wrench really fits well and there is always the possibility of the nut stripping. Also, make sure to use two seals for each bolt. One pressing against the head and steam pipe and the other pressing against the shoulder of the bolt to the steam pipe.

Ok cool. Thanks for the advice.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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A 15mm or 19/32 should work on factory banjo bolts. A 6 point socket is also more insurance.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by shbox
A 15mm or 19/32 should work on factory banjo bolts. A 6 point socket is also more insurance.

Awesome, thankfully there all perfectly secure.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 02:22 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by shbox
A 15mm or 19/32 should work on factory banjo bolts. A 6 point socket is also more insurance.
I don't know about 19/32, but a 15mm is not an exact fit.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
I don't know about 19/32, but a 15mm is not an exact fit.
They're as close as you are going to get out of the toolbox.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:31 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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... and in the case it the bolts become stripped, while the engine is in the car, I've always had great success with giant vice grips and a hammer.
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